OK well I am pretty much having the same problem S was having, some inner fog buildup on the inside of the lenses after driving, I'm going to perhaps try some silica gel packets to see if that does the trick but I guess he is correct in that the housing needs some air flow to keep moisture from building up. I still have some powering up issues. Consistently after I start the car and strike the ballasts via the fog light switch, the first time fails to light up. No error on the dash or anything like that. I wait a few seconds before firing them up too, but maybe not long enough. EDIT: Just tested a theory of mine and it seems to work, if you notice the "GREEN RED YELLOW" Light section next to mileage on your cluster which is lit up during the systems check at startup, then fades black, if I wait until that screen goes blank (basically after the startup checks are done) both ballasts fire up without a problem and with no errors on the dash! You just have to wait for the systems check to be done with, and this is OK, since theoretically when you turn on your X at night you would turn on the low beams first, let them warm up, then fire up the fogs. I will test this again next time I am driving it to see if it is consistent.

I also got a CHECK FRONT FOGLAMPS error that is intermittent, I got home today and after I shut the X down it popped up on the OBC as a "shut down" message", even though there was nothing on startup. Then I restarted the X, and popped the fogs on again, left them on for a few seconds, then shut off and no error on the OBC for shutdown. EDIT: See above.


Maybe I should just take out the CANBUS morimoto modules and just install a traditional relay harness with some 50ohm resistors in line. $12.49 on the 'bay, thoughts? If doing this would avoid me having to wait until the systems check is done on startup I wouldn't mind switching out the modules and just installing a simple battery relay harness!

HID Conversion Kit Relay Harness H1 H3 H4 H6 H6M H7 H11 Resistors 50W 6ohm | eBay

RB just get some error cancelling load resistors (see e-bay link below). I bought a set for $7 on the bay. used them for years in my X and I get no firing up issues with my HID's.

Having said that, I always wait to let my car start and run it's gauntlet of tests before I even drive away, which only takes a few seconds, so I just put my seatbelt on while waiting.

BUT I get an issue on my dash IF I turn the fogs off and within 10 seconds turn them back on, cause one of the bulbs will not fire up. I believe it to be a ballast issue. You need to give them enough time in between turning off and back on so they dont crap out.

2X Warning Canceller Anti Flicker Decoders FOR HID Xenon Error Warning Capacitor | eBay

I basically already have those installed, just the TRS kind:

Morimoto Standalone Can-Bus - Relay Harnesses from The Retrofit Source Inc

They came with my Morimoto ballasts (which have zero issues) as well, so I know the package is fine. I would just like to know that if I install the battery relay harness I listed above (which include actual 50w6ohm resistors on each bulb), will the operation still have to be the same (i.e. do I have to wait until the startup checks are through before firing the fogs, or could I start the car, turn on the headlights and fire up the fogs as well, maybe a couple seconds earlier, without issue)

Basically I want the HID fogs to operate like stock, so if installing the relay harness with additional resistors, and ditching the Canbus modules works, I will do that. The canbus modules "work", but they still require a degree of difference from stock operation, in that you will have sufficient power to the ballasts, and you can avoid errors on the dash, but you have to be mindful of things. I'd rather just install a new relay harness with resistors and not have to think about that crap (or whether I waited long enough to fire my ballasts up, etc)




Stay tuned...

Ricky, did you get any input from Caesar to resolve the moisture issue? I can understand your frustrations with what should have been a (for the most part..a "simple") straight swap. Evidently I was talking to a buddy the other day and he mentioned something about the older range rovers having a tube that went from the fog housings to (possibly?) the intake, to keep air moving in the fog housings. Since I've already resolved my moisture issue with multiple vents....it may be something to consider since you should be able to utilize a single smaller vent (and engine vacuum) in place of lager multiple vents to the atmosphere.....just make sure you T in a fitting BEFORE the airfilter....not after. At the end of the day I still believe firmly that the moisture is simply due to the reduction of heat output in the H3C kits we are using to the standard D2S sized burner; and of course the 55W halogen that the housing was designed around.

The starting issue you mentioned earlier I can't really relate to/provide insight to since In my case (as per our PM), A no-fire only happened one of the first days I had my fogs in, and hasn't occurred since. My suggestion would be just code off the bulb monitoring for the fogs...lets be honest here.....unless your half way to blind, the increase (or lack there of) in foreground lighting from these things should be pretty evident!

Im guessing that the differences between our two cases are directly related to the fact that your dealing with a pre-facelift an mine is post. Nevertheless, hopefully we can get this narrowed down for the rest of the community!