But if its caused by a bad tensioner and you keep a good tensioner in it, why would it matter? Or is this theory wrong? If its right, even with brand new guides, they could still shatter/break with a bad tensioner.

Not trying to thread jack, just curious how the OP feels mainly.

Well, let me put it this way, I haven't ordered any parts yet. I wanted to wait until I have everything taken apart to determine what I need.

Interesting concept about the guides failing being a result of a bad tensioner. I will say I was surprised at how good the guides look. Once I get the lower timing cover off, I'll be able to inspect them more closely. But for piece of mind, I suspect I will end up replacing them.

+1 stunt on your efforts and thread here. Thank you for taking the time to share as your project goes. I am curious on which move you take with the TC guides too.

Junkycosmos
2005 4.8is @92k miles

I cleaned the valley sides this afternoon. What a pain that was using just towels, a pick tool, a little solvent and a shop vac. I didn't have the luxury of hosing down as I went being that the topside is now exposed and I was working indoors.

I was a bit surprised to find the valley full of coolant once I removed the cover, but I guess that was to be expected since I didn't remove the freeze plug in the block.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_3_16_01.JPG

The valley sides cleaned decently despite my challenges I think. It's not like you are going to see them once the intake is put back on, let alone to top cover. :D Btw, I'm running Evan's in case you were wondering about the brown color.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_3_16_02.JPG

After I drained the valley.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_3_16_03.JPG

And I got the one stripped bolt out of the crank.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_3_16_04.JPG

I did make an attempt at removing the "Jesus" bolt using my 3/4" impact wrench, but the crank started turning and I don't have my locking pin yet (part of the timing tool kit), so I didn't go any further. Based on the "feel" from using the impact, I suspect I'll end up using a 3/4 ratchet wrench and 10 lbs sledge to break it free. Fringe benefit of also working on my tractors is having 3/4" tools at my disposal when needed. :thumbup:

I highly recommend you use a crankshaft holding tool instead of just the timing wheel locking pin when removing/installing the "Jesus" bolt. It's high torque 310 +fp.

I had to use a 3/4" socket, breaker bar and a 4-foot steel pipe to break it loose like this guy on the video:
BMW 545i, N62, Crankshaft pulley bolt removal "Jesus bolt" - YouTube

Nice work on the valley pan.

I had a hell of a time getting the crank pulley off my Z. It required heat, a gigantic breaker bar and a heck ofalot of elbow grease.


Glad you got the broken bolt out!

No. Plastic ages while being heat cycled and gets brittle and will fall apart no matter what. Don't spread bad information.

Stunt. You're getting a new crank snout yes?

Excellent thread Stunt, since you've got the engine and tranny removed, why not swap in a Corvette LS engine, it'll be way more reliable and less maintenance intensive than anything BMW could come up with. Nothing like a good ole push rod V8, and it'll have more displacement and the aftermaket power add-ons are limitless, nothing much out there for a 4.6 engine.

I'm just surprised you didn't get tired of bashing BMW.Every chance you get you make it look like BMW is the mother of unreliability..seriously , it's eye tiring ...

Just to be clear, I'm referring to the flywheel lock pin that is inserted in a hole in the transmission bellhousing. It is a 1/2" pin or something like that, so I would think it will provide plenty of holding power.

Here's a pic from another DIY thread on bimmerboard

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/flywheelpin.JPG