Bushings. You see the BMW symbol on the rubber, so it's genuine part. They do put date codes on this, which would also confirm if they have been replaced in the past.

I had issues with the other front suspension arms and ball joints, and decided (even knowing my torque bushings were only three years old) to do EVERYTHING all at once - so you have a "like new" reference. Since you have everything apart, why not?

Thanks. The 4.6 converter is the larger 12" diameter one compared to the more common 11" diameter one used on the 4.4 trucks.

Here's an outfit that is aware of the differences and offers the 12" one specifically for the 4.6:

Transmission Torque converter, ZF5HP24 TC-BMW78

$279 w/ free shipping seems like a reasonable price.

These would probably be good to pick up as well?

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/M465SC.html

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co..._Code=LA-2001K

I also found a 5HP-24 repair manual online (130 page .pdf), which seems to very complete with pictures, procedures, torque specs, etc.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-r...explained.html

Because it doesn’t have a torsional vibration damper the LUC in the L51 model converter (SACHS WA4/W280 S-2GWK) is particularly sensitive to being set up correctly.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...LUCsection.jpg

The total piston movement, on to off, is only 1mm and the retainer for the piston return springs - which double as tangential driving straps - is friction welded into place so has to be turned off on a lathe and then accurately re-welded in the correct position once the friction plate has been replaced.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...drivinghub.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ullLUCassy.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lateinsitu.jpg

For that reason torque converter remanufacturers shy away from this particular model or, if they do offer to recondition it, may not risk attempting to replace the LUC. I’d strongly recommend therefore that you find somewhere that has a lot of experience with this particular model.

Phil (aka Bemble on landrovernet)

Phil's advise is like gold as far as transmissions go. This man really knows his stuff. To bad you are not in US

Thanks for your advice Phil! I read your thread on the 5HP24 teardown with great interest and that is what gave me the courage to take on this project myself.

I'll do some research on the Sachs L51 to make sure I find someone that has experience with this particular model.

As I have been with the rest of this project, I'll be taking plenty of high resolution pictures as I go.

Regarding special tools, the 5HP24 is particularly easy to strip & rebuild – the whole thing practically comes apart just using T27 & T40 Torx drivers - but you will need to fabricate something to compress the clutch return springs. Three tools will suffice for all six clutches.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ssionTools.jpg


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...n/A-clutch.jpg
A Clutch


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...n/B-clutch.jpg
B Clutch


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...n/C-clutch.jpg
C Clutch


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...on/D-brake.jpg
D Brake


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...on/E-brake.jpg
E Brake


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...on/F-brake.jpg
F Brake


People have kindly been sending me photos of the improvised tools that they’ve made – their ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. Here’s a couple ! :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps3ac09ea9.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps4db71273.jpg



It also helps if you have something to assist removing the two jump tubes for the C/D clutches :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ubePuller2.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...TubePuller.jpg



The RWD versions of the 5HP24 for BMWs and Jags also require a special tool for the output bearing nut :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...dNutSocket.jpg


but the ‘029’ and ‘034’ models used in the E53 have a different rear end (due to the transfer case) which means that this tool is not required

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psbdfb32a8.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps0da98a4a.jpg

Phil

P.S. You might want to get your transmission apart before going to the expense of buying a full set of clutch plates as you’ll probably find that you don’t need them

Great pics! That wooden press looks a little scary, but it clearly was good enough for the job of dealing with the clutch springs. I'd love to score an old Delta press like what you got!

I should be able to fab up tools like those you show and fashion something for the jump tubes.

I called Macko transmission parts to enquirer about their rebuilt torque converter they have listed for $279. As it turns out, that particular model is no longer available from their supplier. Hmm, I wonder if it has anything to do with what you stated Phil about these being particular challenging to remanufacter?

I emailed thectsc (they don't have a phone number) to see if they have or can get this elusive converter.

The part number for the L51 converter is 24407512589 and the price of a "new" one is $1550 or so. I say "new" as I understand these would actually be remanufactured?

The only place I found that offers a remanufactured version is in Germany and they have it for 339 Euros.

Torque converter specialist*-*Torque converter BMW 24407512589

Even with shipping, that would probably still be cheaper than purchasing a "new" one here in the US.

I'll continue my search for an outfit that has experience remanufacturing this particular converter. Surely that has to be something available that falls somewhere between discontinued $280 unit and a "new" unit at $1550.

Stunt, your notation on the solitary crack in the engine mount. They are hydraulic, and since there is a crack it's very possible the fluid has leaked out, but during your immaculate cleaning abilities you've erased the evidence that the engine mounts are/have failed. Also, being 7.5 years old now, its better to replace them while its easy to do anyway.

Stunt. East coast. Call here

Erikson : (203) 386-8931