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Quote:

Originally Posted by daytonatrbo (Post 1110473)

Ok, so on Sunday I finally got to changing the glow plug. The old was was notably burnt looking, and slightly deformed. Not sure if thats normal, or evidence of its failure.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4209/3...2301dbd0_c.jpg

Glow plugs are fully buried under the intake. It also had this funny snug fit that I assume is due to carbon build-up in the head.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4275/3...f96f527e_c.jpg

I also replaced the intake port gaskets since they were notably degraded last time I had the intake off. I took the opportunity to bring the manifold inside and do some more CBU removal on the swirl flaps.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...155bed86_c.jpg

And mileage check just for my own reference, and since I changed the air filter while I was at it.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4221/3...c80a7ec0_c.jpg

Cleared the check engine light and drove the car about 75 miles on Sunday with no return of the CEL. The cold starting and idle is also much smoother now. Very happy. Still many more little things that need to be addressed. But for now, the car is happier than I've ever known it to be.

You didnt want to do a swirl flap removal?

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlpineD (Post 1110494)

You didnt want to do a swirl flap removal?

I would strongly prefer to keep the flaps. I've read too many reports that deleting them kills the torque output of the engine in common driving situations. My favorite thing about this engine is the torque delivery and I would prefer not to ruin that.

Plus, these are supposed to be the revised design, and not the type that like to drop into the engine. The biggest issue I have with them is the fact that they seem to be introducing a vauum leak around the shaft seals.

It would be great if someone came out with a rebuild kit, like they have for the m54 DISA valve.

Are you sure about that? How did you diagnose the leak around the shaft seals?

Simple: the same oil that's contaminating the inside of the intake is also present on the shafts and even dripping off of one of them. There is no other path for oil to get there that I can see. And if oil can trespass, so can air.

It may not be a "vacuum leak" since it's a diesel, but it's certainly a boost leak, though probably minor.

Well,

I changed my ATF today. Not too bad, but the trans cross member is in the way, and the exhaust is in the way of easily removing it.

While test driving the car afterwards, the alternator finally gave up the ghost. So now thats on order and my wife is home without a car for a couple of days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daytonatrbo (Post 1108187)

I'm still having an unusual problem where the personal settings, date, trip mileage, etc resets itself. Hopefully once I get INPA talking to the car correctly, I'll be able to discover an error or something to point me in the right direction.

Seems to definitely be a result of weak battery condition due to wonky alternator.

Also, the battery was replaced with the smaller size, not the bigger size my car should have which sorta pisses me off and makes the alternator work that much harder.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daytonatrbo (Post 1110877)

Didnt know there where two batteries. how do i know which one i have?

and whats signs pointed to the faulty alternator?

Where the battery mounts, there's 2 clamps. The little one holds the ends. Theres 2 positions for it. Mine obviously used to be on the longer position.

And the battery voltage kept dipping. The battery wasn't staying topped up, and during cranking it would throw low voltage warnings.

Today, it threw a charging error while driving and EVERYTHING threw an error a moment later. The steering got stiff, the OBC threw an error for high engine temp, then one for dynamic control.

After charging the battery, I reinstalled it. 12.7v before cranking. 11.48 while running.

I'd say I need an alternator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stockx5 (Post 1110879)

Didnt know there where two batteries. how do i know which one i have?

and whats signs pointed to the faulty alternator?

You most likely have either a 49/H8 or 95R/H9 battery class size.

If the e70's battery compartment is long enough...the larger battery size would be the 95R/H9. You can see the dimensions of the normally installed 49/H8 specs vs the longer 95R/H9 in the EAST PENN battery chart below (which also shows the battery's charging specs: (ResCap/Cranking Amps/Cold Cranking Amps/Amp Hour). Regardless of battery mfg...the 95R/H9 will usually be approx 15" long (give or take a few mm). :)

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...0H9%20Info.jpg