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  #21  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:08 PM
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I went thru the same stage soon after I bought mine, because I didn't have many service records, I didn't know what all had been repaired. I ended up replacing the engine, refreshing the whole cooling system and timing chain guides and gaskets on the second engine, plus a lot of the suspension bits. It was a bit of downer for awhile, especially since we just bought a house as well. But I stuck it out and am currently very happy, knowing exactly where I am with all my maintenance...
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2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
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  #22  
Old 05-04-2015, 07:46 AM
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Yes,can be dangerous buying used car.If you buy such car better try buying one with service history.Go with someone who you trust about cars to look it over prior to buy it.
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  #23  
Old 05-04-2015, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakatomi View Post
What is it about the V8's that make them so much more prone to failure? Just more wear and tear from a higher performance engine?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshdub View Post
Lack of proper maintenance.
+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post
I think it has more to do with the practices of some people who own the V8 models than with the vehicle itself.
+1

I noticed the other day at idle that my driving lights were fluctuating slightly. Little bright, little soft.. little bright, little soft. Where do you think I'm headed next? A PROACTIVE visit to have the alternator checked. If it's bad or shows signs of being so... I will replace it in advance. It's nearly 11 years old after all.

Maintain your car. Drive it like you OWN it, not stole it. And *look* for things that should be going wrong to replace them before they do. If you *expect* mechanical things to fail, they will never fail your expectations.
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2015, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PropellerHead View Post


+2

I noticed the other day at idle that my driving lights were fluctuating slightly. Little bright, little soft.. little bright, little soft. Where do you think I'm headed next? A PROACTIVE visit to have the alternator checked. If it's bad or shows signs of being so... I will replace it in advance. It's nearly 11 years old after all.

Maintain your car. Drive it like you OWN it, not stole it. And *look* for things that should be going wrong to replace them before they do. If you *expect* mechanical things to fail, they will never fail your expectations.


+1
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2015, 08:53 AM
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I just saw this article about what it might cost to take a 2008 Toyota Camry to 200k miles. Care to guess? On the high side, the article suggests that it would require ~$8,000.

YES, our E53's cost more to maintain- maybe even 2-3x more! But we make a *choice* don't we? After all, the E53 cost 2-2.5x more when new, rt? It certainly is 2-3x the drive! (maybe even 4x!) It makes sense that maintaining it costs more.

But the real takeaway here is that even the venerable, almighty 'maintenance free' Camry and Honda cost money to maintain and drive over 100k miles- especially ten years after production! Pay for it new or pay for it in maintenance. You're *GONNA* pay for it!

Quote:
Getting to—and passing—200,000 miles on the odometer is an impressive feat, but it’s by no means unachievable. Reliability in many new cars has improved, and even the maintenance schedule in owner’s manuals has been changed to help you get more miles out of your car.

As you approach that milestone, many of your car’s components will start to wear out. We recommend that you closely follow the service interval schedule.

Despite your best efforts, though, certain problems will crop up as you near the 200K mark.

We calculated the cost to repair certain items in a typical 2008 Toyota Camry V6 using the Consumer Reports Car Repair Estimator. Your repair costs might be different.

1. Exhaust systems that rust out
You can tell because your car will get increasingly loud and will probably fail emissions tests come inspection time. According to our estimator, the job could cost $1,880 to $3,230.

2. Spark plugs
If maintained well, they can last 100,000 miles. But by the 200K mark, you could be overdue for a third set of plugs. Cost to replace: $100 to $300.

3. Shocks and struts
Does your car look like it’s sagging, or does it shudder like it’s in an earthquake every time you drive over a pothole? Then you probably need new shocks and struts. Cost to repair: $280 to $400 for one strut (you should replace them in pairs). But if you need a full set of shocks and struts all around, expect to pay closer to $900 to $1,300.

4. Oil
Increased oil consumption is common in older cars, so don’t panic. You should routinely check and top off the oil between changes, especially before long trips. Cost to replace: A few bucks as needed.

5. Hoses, etc.
Oil lines, vacuum lines, and all kinds of seals and gaskets can start to wear. You should look over your engine routinely for signs of leaks. Cost to repair: $200 to $370 for a new exhaust manifold. But if your head gasket needs replacing, you could pay into four figures.

6. Moisture buildup in the cabin
Almost 10 years of hopping in the car with muddy boots will take its toll, and a lot of the moisture will remain to fog up the windows and give you that old-car smell. Cost to repair: A soggy interior is forever, but you should be able to hold off the fog with a splash of Windex or another window cleaner. As for that musty smell? Blast the carpet with Febreze.

7. Electrical components
Years of water splash and spray can wreak havoc on your wiring and circuitry. Don’t be surprised if features like power windows, windshield wipers, and even the instrument panel go on the fritz. The gremlins can be frustratingly difficult to trace. Cost to repair: $370 to more than $1,300.

8. Brake lines that begin to wear
They should be checked often as you approach the 200K mark. Have a car that won’t start? That’s a problem. A car that won’t stop? That’s a problem. Cost to repair: $900 to almost $2,000.

9. Mechanical components
Many original parts seem like they’ll last forever, but even the strongest ones can wear out. Don’t go cheap on replacement parts. If you did replace worn parts with substandard knockoffs, they might be on their way to failure much sooner than the original equipment. Also, if you buy certain premium parts, they might come with a lifetime warranty.

10. Rust
If you see even a little bit of rust forming around the wheel wells, hood, trunk, or suspension mounting points, there could be a serious problem beneath the surface. That structural weakness will make your car less safe in a crash. Cost to repair: Not worth it. Time to get a new car.
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Last edited by PropellerHead; 05-04-2015 at 09:00 AM.
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  #26  
Old 05-04-2015, 02:38 PM
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That's pretty much all I had to go through plus the transmission rebuild.
I am still happily married,the rest matters less.X is an awesome vehicle regardless the problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mam4.6 View Post
I went thru the same stage soon after I bought mine, because I didn't have many service records, I didn't know what all had been repaired. I ended up replacing the engine, refreshing the whole cooling system and timing chain guides and gaskets on the second engine, plus a lot of the suspension bits. It was a bit of downer for awhile, especially since we just bought a house as well. But I stuck it out and am currently very happy, knowing exactly where I am with all my maintenance...
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  #27  
Old 05-04-2015, 03:36 PM
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At the 10+ year mark with reselling pricing for hi mileage ones hitting below 10K, my only suggestion is to all owners is to DIY. If you have deep pockets, then go for it and find a BMW E53 knowledgeable INDY, whom you trust.

These are getting cheaper to buy with hi mileage and lots of unknown deferred maintenance. Most are ticking away waiting to go bang. The issues with X5's have been documented to death on this site as have the solutions to these same issues we as owners get to resolve. The knowledge base on this site is priceless.
Buy them and fix them. If not why buy in the first place? Like the style and performance? It all comes at a price. Nothing is free even in a Honda, Toyota, or whatever.

In regards to selling what you have now and going to a snooze of a car, everyone has choices in life to make that will define their auto driving life. Have a Nice Day!
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #28  
Old 05-04-2015, 03:59 PM
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Great point, StephenVA... pay to play is definitely true of BMW
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  #29  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:10 AM
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Thanks all, yeah I definitely love the X. Just need a reliable daily drive so am buying a new Grand Cherokee and going to replace every 3-4 years. I love the BMW's how they don't age. A 10 year old land cruiser looks like a 10 year old landmcruiser, people still think my 04 is only a couple of years old.

I will definitely be buying another X when I can afford the money and time for a toy car - maybe an E70 X5M might be the go by then...
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  #30  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:13 AM
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Not having a crack at you mate, but you want reliability and bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee? THE single most recalled vehicle in Australia?
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