Replace white regulator slider clips only or entire window regulator?

[andrewwynn]

I like the jb weld idea. After spraying the outside rails and getting 60% faster window I'm pretty sure too much friction is the cause of the failure and the broken clip is the symptom. There has to be a lot of unplanned force on the window to slow it by 38%. The vast majority of that extra friction is apparently in the side seals since that's the only place I sprayed and the window is back to normal (same speed as the other three now)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[oldskewel]

I don't yet have the Ph.D. in this topic that crowz has, but I'm working towards it whether I want to or not. Here are some general comments from my experiences on all 4 windows in 3 years of ownership:

- the black plastic window clips (front - 2x per window, 51-33-8-254-781; rear - 1x per window, 51-35-7-011-680) get brittle quickly. Removing them will likely crack them. They need to be removed if you remove the glass. So you replacing them every time you're in there is not just a good idea ...

- regarding the window moving smoothly (andrewwynn comments), yes I agree, one root cause or at least accelerant here is when the window does not move smoothly, putting more force on the entire rest of the weakly designed system. There is a piece of rubber channel that fits securely in a metal sleeve along the front edge of the front door windows, going deep down within the door. I have found that rubber channel to have partially popped out of its metal sleeve, so it binds a lot tighter on the window than it should, causing more drag. Perhaps the spray lube worked its way down to this rubber channel, and that is specifically the problem it is helping with here. And maybe carefully re-seating the rubber in-place would help a lot too. So I'd say that whenever opening up the door, check that rubber channel and make sure it is securely in place. It is like weatherstripping in door and trunk seals - needs to fit perfectly, with little seams, etc., but when it does, it kind of snaps into place and stays there.

- cn90 - I too love the JBWeld idea. I've done the zip ties on a brand new slider clip install as a pre-emptive strengthening of the weak spot. But now that I know there is another approved use of JBWeld, I will definitely use that one. But I think if you do the JBWeld, doing it to the original ones that come with the $25 or $240 regulator you buy will be sufficient.

- when I first bought this truck, the left front window regulator clips had failed. PO attempted a repair, failed, sold the truck to me for a good price because of that and a couple other minor things. I took it apart, found the slider clips issue. Found that buying regulatorfix replacements was more than half the price of a new cheap regulator on Amazon (about $30 at the time, I think), so I figured I'd buy the Amazon one and transplant the clips. When I got it, I was impressed enough with the build quality of it, so I just put it in. Now, 3 years later, it seemed to fail a week ago. I took the door panel off, and found that the cable had just worked its way off one of the pulleys. Not having new regulators in stock (still learning ...), I put the cable back on the pulley and reinstalled while I get new parts. It works, but seems loose, noisy, and with hysteresis in the spring loaded cables. Will definitely not last long. So the message on this data point is that things like the cable + pulleys might be the weaker points on a cheap regulator, and of course the 3-year duration for me. Also, windows are used all the time for us.

- when I did that left front window repair, I saved the original one that came out, with things looking good except for the failed slider clips. I am inclined to check to confirm the condition of the pulleys, etc. I think it is a BMW brand. If it looks good, I might buy just the slider clips, use zip ties and JBWeld to hold them in there, and put that thing back in.

[andrewwynn]

Good stuff.

If there is a spot on the cable that doesn't go through a pulley you can tighten your cable with a simple jig made from some aluminum c channel.

Tap a few holes alternating sides of the channel, put in screws left-right-left-right slip over the cable and clamp the screws into the cable forcing it into a zigzag.

If you just need a tiny bit of "tighter", disconnect an end, counter-twist the cable to form a "basket" and insert something, I like to use a small cylinder of brass that I taper on the ends. Once in place some super glue or UV activated resin.

If it came off a pulley the pulley axle is suspect: did it wear in the center to allow it to twist? It would account for the new noise.

Also: I did attempt to work the spray down the edges of the window in case the channel went the whole way down. I didn't really notice the internal channel when I had a door apart a couple weeks ago is that fromt or back or both edges ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

...Also: I did attempt to work the spray down the edges of the window in case the channel went the whole way down. I didn't really notice the internal channel when I had a door apart a couple weeks ago is that fromt or back or both edges ?

Rubber channel is front edge only. Can't be seen, only by feel.

On the other stuff, regarding adjusting tension, I'd hate to spend too much time on tuning it up since I'm not completely sure where the problem is. Pulley might be a little loose? When I drive it up and down, I can see the springs moving a lot where the cables meet the motor pulley. When it drives, it makes clicking noises sometimes. In this case, rebuilding a cheap part is just not worth it.

On the other hand, I'll look at the one I took out 3 years ago. I think that might be BMW, might be low mileage, only failing due to the slider clips. That might be worth a little effort.

[cn90]

Anyone with review (long-term) on this Window Regulator by Siemens-VDO WR51136 (made in Taiwan), about $90-$100:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Window-Regu...5/302574361237

[andrewwynn]

Did you say you also had to replace the door handle carrier: the last one I did, the spring was too long and hit the glass! Make sure the window is not hitting something that is out of spec like a bolt or screw where design was a spot weld etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[oldskewel]

I fixed mine yesterday. The one I had removed and saved from before was BMW original, made by Brose. It was in pretty excellent shape other than the slider clips.

The cheap Amazon one that had failed (cable came off the pulley and I quickly put it back temporarily a week or so ago) failed at the point where the cable attaches to the motor spool assembly. There is a piece of plastic the cable goes through, and that plastic seats the cable housing and is supported by a spring. It broke. So the tension was all off, and the cable housing was starting to deteriorate. The slider clips looked good.

So I transplanted the slider clips to the BMW regulator, applied JBWeld as recommended, and put it all back. Pretty quick and easy (had to wait an hour or two for the JBWeld to start curing in there though), and works great again.

Comparing the BMW and china-brand ones side by side, it still is amazing that the price difference is almost 10x. But still, the BMW one does seem to use better materials throughout. For example, tougher plastic on the piece that broke on the China one would have kept it working. Typical cutting corners to reduce the price, taking it a little too far here. Also, I'm here in NorCal with pretty mild climate. I expect brittle plastic will have even more problems in more extreme climates, unless those climates mean the windows are never used, of course.

So I think the best repair approach would be to keep the BMW regulator (that seems to always fail at the slider clips) and replace those clips while also doing a strengthening upgrade such as zip ties or epoxy. With this one data point on my driver's door regulator, the China-brand ones may no longer have the slider clip as the weak point, because other things are worse.

I've also replaced the door handle carrier, and rebuilt the door lock cylinder and door lock actuator on this door, so yes it has come apart a few times, but everything is in place with no problems.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

So I think the best repair approach would be to keep the BMW regulator (that seems to always fail at the slider clips) and replace those clips while also doing a strengthening upgrade such as zip ties or epoxy. With this one data point on my driver's door regulator, the China-brand ones may no longer have the slider clip as the weak point, because other things are worse.

^That's the method I've landed on as being the "perfect" recipe for long term functionality. We also use the windows here all year round, while still "enjoying" fairly extreme temps in the summer. I have not had a repaired OEM regulator fail on me yet having done it 4 or 5 times now on the E53. Many more times across BMW chassis.