Replace white regulator slider clips only or entire window regulator?

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

But there are two of these slider clips and the one closest to the door hinge seems to be a bully of a time to get to while the regulator system is still installed I'll find out soon and report back.

If you're looking at the Armando Quintanilla video on YT you can see the one next to the door hinge is completely doable and plenty of space to replace the slider clip (it just rotates off the track) once the vapor barrier is out of the way

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

^I try to do the same but my time availability exceeds my maintenance goals nowadays LOL - you probably will complete it prior to me at this rate

K, so i got the parts and did both my front door window clips and regulator sliders. What a PITA it was to remove the factory regulator clips. Mine were not broken in the area where the cable tie clips in so getting mine off were horribly hard. And getting the new one on was also a beast. Very tight area to work in.
My factory sliders were very worn and cracked in many places but none broken.
All parts replaced but it took me 4 hours to do both and cleaned everything up.
Windows do operate so much more accurate now and no twisting òf window as it goes up/down and no rattles period when door closed.
Pita but doable.

if my spelling sucks in this post its cause im typing on a tablet.

[Ricky Bobby]

Very glad to hear Mike! I'm glad it helped, thats actually not too bad considering disassembly, doing both sides, and cleanup - Enjoy your working front windows now for many many years! I will try to get both my fronts accomplished soon, my maintenance regimen has been falling behind lately

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

K, so i got the parts and did both my front door window clips and regulator sliders. What a PITA it was to remove the factory regulator clips. Mine were not broken in the area where the cable tie clips in so getting mine off were horribly hard. And getting the new one on was also a beast. Very tight area to work in.
My factory sliders were very worn and cracked in many places but none broken.
All parts replaced but it took me 4 hours to do both and cleaned everything up.
Windows do operate so much more accurate now and no twisting òf window as it goes up/down and no rattles period when door closed.
Pita but doable.

if my spelling sucks in this post its cause im typing on a tablet.

Glad to hear you got it done. Did you end up removing the regulator, or did you swap the regulator clips (sliders, etc.) in situ?

I did all my windows (some repair, some pre-emptive repair), and removed the regulators for all 4. Replacing the rear-window regulator clips (one per window) was more difficult than the fronts, since they attach to the cable differently. Not really hard, actually, but harder than the front windows, and I can't imagine doing it in situ.

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Glad to hear you got it done. Did you end up removing the regulator, or did you swap the regulator clips (sliders, etc.) in situ?

I did the regulator sliding clips with regulator assembly in situ yes. PAIN but I didnt want to bother with removing the regs if possible. Removing the speaker from door was a god sent tho. 3 screws... its the easiest thing TO remove from the door hahah.

I really was only doing this for preventative maintenance as well. I didnt have any problems as SUCH but I was hearing some creaking sounds from the glass/rolling up into closed position and figured it could be a broken clip somewhere. Nope, none were broken to be honest but the black window clips were definitely brittle (yet fully intact till I had to remove them from glass). The plastic/metal sliding clips too were starting to crack on the grey plastic parts yet nothing had fully broken and to be honest, getting my slider clips off the cable were a very difficult procedure. Makes me not fully understand how others have had this exact area on their sliders break so easily.

I have the window clips and regulator sliders for rear doors but will tackle them some other time. not looking forward to another battle so soon

[Ricky Bobby]

Update on my end as I just completed this on my drivers door:

Definitely do it if your regulators are original and you don't have ridiculously large or fat hands. I have decently small hands and besides a few cuts, only took me about 20 mins to replace the clips (black window, and white "RegulatorFix" clips) once the vapor barrier was off.

I have another door carrier to do on the other side and will do both regulator clips and window clips on that one at the same time.

The rear windows are hardly ever used to be honest, so I probably won't have to address them for some time.

I think the most wear on the clips is slamming the door with the windows down or rolled halfway down.

My drivers door window rolls up/down much quicker now, and no rattles, or looseness from the glass at all. Very much recommended for the $15 per side you can repair this for, and a couple hours to take the door panel and vapor barrier off and take your time.

[ChiefRider]

So I very much appreciate reading these threads! I know where to get the black regulator clips, but haven't yet found a source for the white "slider"clips.

I know they are on Ebay, but all from Germany or Lithuania or such. Prefer to find a stateside seller, would like to get them a bit sooner. Can anyone suggest?

Front drivers door window is rattling. Figure I better get in there!

[cn90]

Hi guys,

2006 X5 6spMT 125K miles.
So far so good, can't complain but...the driver's glass is making noise when going down and up (the noise the cables make when going through the pulleys), so I know the WR is going south soon.

QUESTION re BRAND. What is everyone using (ebay, Dorman vs BMW OEM) and your experience? BMW PN 51338254911 is for driver's side.

For $110, BMW is not a bad choice at all.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by cn90

Hi guys,

2006 X5 6spMT 125K miles.
So far so good, can't complain but...the driver's glass is making noise when going down and up (the noise the cables make when going through the pulleys), so I know the WR is going south soon.

QUESTION re BRAND. What is everyone using (ebay. Dorman vs BMW OEM) and your experience? BMW PN 51338254911 is for driver's side.

For $110, BMW is not a bad choice at all.

My dealer treats me pretty good on pricing so for something like the WR and amount of time and effort to replace it, I would go with the Genuine BMW part.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by cn90

Hi guys,

2006 X5 6spMT 125K miles.
So far so good, can't complain but...the driver's glass is making noise when going down and up (the noise the cables make when going through the pulleys), so I know the WR is going south soon.

QUESTION re BRAND. What is everyone using (ebay, Dorman vs BMW OEM) and your experience? BMW PN 51338254911 is for driver's side.

For $110, BMW is not a bad choice at all.

Where do you see the BMW one for $110?