HELP!! Car Not Starting.

[hunds02]

anyone have any clues to my last post? Still have not heard from the mechanic, they didn't even get to my car yesterday...

Appreciate any help I can get! Maybe I should have started a new thread...

[EODguy]

Check voltage as you may have used all that was left in battery. Possible causes is voltage regulator on alt or a dead alt. I recommend you PM Andrew as he's the man who is a electronic Jimmi Hendrix and about all I'm good for is how make a crater in the parking lot.

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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by hunds02

anyone have any clues to my last post? Still have not heard from the mechanic, they didn't even get to my car yesterday...

Appreciate any help I can get! Maybe I should have started a new thread...

For a gasoline engine to start you need fuel, compression, and a spark from the spark plug. You can test for fuel at the fuel rail with a pressure gauge. Just because you have pressure at the fuel rail doesn't mean the engine is getting fuel.

You will also need to test for a injector pulse to the injectors. The injector pulse signal the injector to open so that fuel can be injected into the intake manifold. A noid light attach to one of the injector connector will confirm if you are getting an injector pulse.

I am assuming that the engine is healthy so unless you were having problems before you can skip the compression test.

Last but not least, are you pumping the accelerator when you try to start the engine? If you are, you most likely flooded the engine and no amount of cranking is going to un-flood the engine. Spark plugs will have to be removed and dried out, the cylinder will have to be dried out.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by EODguy

about all I'm good for is how make a crater in the parking lot.

OMG Hahahaha

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by Overboost

OMG Hahahaha

What? It's true. Although I'm sure my anti-theft is the best it only works once!

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[Overboost]

You're killing me today... Lololol

[hunds02]

Originally Posted by upallnight

For a gasoline engine to start you need fuel, compression, and a spark from the spark plug. You can test for fuel at the fuel rail with a pressure gauge. Just because you have pressure at the fuel rail doesn't mean the engine is getting fuel.

You will also need to test for a injector pulse to the injectors. The injector pulse signal the injector to open so that fuel can be injected into the intake manifold. A noid light attach to one of the injector connector will confirm if you are getting an injector pulse.

I am assuming that the engine is healthy so unless you were having problems before you can skip the compression test.

Last but not least, are you pumping the accelerator when you try to start the engine? If you are, you most likely flooded the engine and no amount of cranking is going to un-flood the engine. Spark plugs will have to be removed and dried out, the cylinder will have to be dried out.

Thanks for your comments.

Interesting note about the injector pulse. I will relay the info to the mechanic shop. Can you elaborate a little bit about the "Noid light"?

Regarding the compression, I haven't checked it ever but the engine runs smooth and no performance symptoms or misfires, so will probably skip the compression test until later.

When I was trying to get it to start I recall I may have tapped on the accelerator, however, when the problem first occurred I did not depress the pedal, just turned the key until it eventually started. So while I may have a flooded engine now, it did not cause the issue to occur initially.

[deuchant420]

Hey, I had similar issues. I fixed mine by replacing the IVM - integrated supply module. The same module is used on almost every BMW from this time period. It supplies power to many of the cars systems including ignition. When this module gets old and it gets cold the voltage output can drop not supplying enough voltage for the fuel pump to prime and many other gremlins. It's easy to test, located in the engine compartment side of the fire wall on the passenger side in the electrical box(this is on an E53) I think it's in the same spot for most X5's. You just have to remove the covers to get access and i believe there are 4 - 5 torx screws you will need to remove to get the cover off. When the car doesn't start, open the cover and tap on the IVM. If the car starts, that's your problem. I could just bang on the electrical box without removing anything and mine would start. It's a small box shaped module about 4 x 5 x 1.5 inches rectangular shape. It has connectors plugged in and has some fuses as well. It's the only thing that looks like this in the electrical box. Here's a pic http://www.euromotives.com/i/ebay/f/1431884703.jpg
Make sure you replace it with a brand new one. I tried replacing the ignition switch, tested the fuel pump, crank position sensors and a bunch of other things before I found out about the IVM. It's less than $100 and you can find a youtube video about replacing it. If it's a crank position sensor, the car would usually start after a number of tries so I doubt that's your problem. The IVM is a very likely cause based on your posts.
Good luck

[hunds02]

Originally Posted by deuchant420

Hey, I had similar issues. I fixed mine by replacing the IVM - integrated supply module. The same module is used on almost every BMW from this time period. It supplies power to many of the cars systems including ignition. When this module gets old and it gets cold the voltage output can drop not supplying enough voltage for the fuel pump to prime and many other gremlins. It's easy to test, located in the engine compartment side of the fire wall on the passenger side in the electrical box(this is on an E53) I think it's in the same spot for most X5's. You just have to remove the covers to get access and i believe there are 4 - 5 torx screws you will need to remove to get the cover off. When the car doesn't start, open the cover and tap on the IVM. If the car starts, that's your problem. I could just bang on the electrical box without removing anything and mine would start. It's a small box shaped module about 4 x 5 x 1.5 inches rectangular shape. It has connectors plugged in and has some fuses as well. It's the only thing that looks like this in the electrical box. Here's a pic http://www.euromotives.com/i/ebay/f/1431884703.jpg
Make sure you replace it with a brand new one. I tried replacing the ignition switch, tested the fuel pump, crank position sensors and a bunch of other things before I found out about the IVM. It's less than $100 and you can find a youtube video about replacing it. If it's a crank position sensor, the car would usually start after a number of tries so I doubt that's your problem. The IVM is a very likely cause based on your posts.
Good luck

It looks like the 4.4i and 4.8is uses this module. When I go to realoem, it doesn't appear that the 3.0i has a part number for this...

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

[deuchant420]

Easiest thing to do is look in the e box and see. My wife’s 3 series had the same module so my guess is they are all the same. Or just try banging on the e box and see if it starts