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  #11  
Old 12-16-2015, 12:10 AM
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If you need a running, in car m62tub44, I am about to pull mine for an engine swap. 155k miles, light vanos rattle and the timing guides should be done in the next 20k miles. I assume the previous owner did them @ 100k but they never gave me paperwork to support that notion so best to be safe.
No codes and always serviced at bmw certified shops running full synthetic oil on every change.

I would stick with the tu44. Easier job rebuilding it than swapping in a b44 and dealing with electrical issues.
In my humble opinion. BTW, sorry the rig you bought had issues when you got it.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2015, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diyanich View Post
A loose chain wouldn't make valve timing overlap,a few skipped teeth would.
In this case..do a leak down test,which is : manually turning the crankshaft so the piston gets into a TDC put a pressure into cylinder.If you have bent valves then you know it right away.
There are a few threads discussion this method here.
It's kind of taking a risk because if the timing is off, I risk further damage. However, if I don't do the compression test, the only other way of checking is pulling the head. Which I am not trying to do. but I guess it's already effed up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plattus1000 View Post
If you need a running, in car m62tub44, I am about to pull mine for an engine swap. 155k miles, light vanos rattle and the timing guides should be done in the next 20k miles. I assume the previous owner did them @ 100k but they never gave me paperwork to support that notion so best to be safe.
No codes and always serviced at bmw certified shops running full synthetic oil on every change.

I would stick with the tu44. Easier job rebuilding it than swapping in a b44 and dealing with electrical issues.
In my humble opinion. BTW, sorry the rig you bought had issues when you got it.
Yea. I planned on keeping the VANOS setup. The only thing I would plan on swapping was the VANOS heads to the B44 block. But I am favoring just doing the chain and VANOS on my broke one and selling the B44. Almost feel like I wasted 5hrs of my Sunday pulling this engine from a BMW conveniently located in a puddle. I hate that salvage yard. They wont move vehicles so you dont have to work under water.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:07 AM
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Funny. This is how I ended up with my X, too. Bought it with a badly rattling timing chain, pulled the engine and rebuilt everything related. Never ran it until after the rebuild. Mine had damage to the front cover, the guides were badly shredded but the chain had not broken. Lots of debris.... Clean the oil pump pickup very carefully - maybe even replace the oil pump. Pulled the heads and found no visible damage to the valves or cylinders, so cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been strong ever since. Just recently dropped the oil pan to replace the upper oil pan gasket which had started to leak after 2.5 years. My fault I guess... Did the Besian VANOS rebuild process at the same time. All new chains and guides and tensions of course. Reconditioned all my lifters while it was apart.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by David.X5 View Post
Funny. This is how I ended up with my X, too. Bought it with a badly rattling timing chain, pulled the engine and rebuilt everything related. Never ran it until after the rebuild. Mine had damage to the front cover, the guides were badly shredded but the chain had not broken. Lots of debris.... Clean the oil pump pickup very carefully - maybe even replace the oil pump. Pulled the heads and found no visible damage to the valves or cylinders, so cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been strong ever since. Just recently dropped the oil pan to replace the upper oil pan gasket which had started to leak after 2.5 years. My fault I guess... Did the Besian VANOS rebuild process at the same time. All new chains and guides and tensions of course. Reconditioned all my lifters while it was apart.
I think I am going this route. Rebuilding the timing components and VANOS. Trying to flush out as much of the debris as possible (I'll have to figure this procedure out). Did you deck the block and heads before reassembly or just scrape and clean the mating surfaces?
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Helihover View Post
Not sure a loose chain would cause that....

Sounds like the chain all ready skipped a tooth or so on the cam sprocket. That's my guess anyway.

I would be concerned with whether or not the valves are bent.
With you on the bent valves. If thats the case then he is going to spend a fair deal of money to fix it right anyway
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is View Post
With you on the bent valves. If thats the case then he is going to spend a fair deal of money to fix it right anyway
I'm sure the previous owner kept driving it around with the racket under the hood for a bit, it is possible that there are bent valves. The only way to know for sure is to take the heads off. However I would like to avoid that. I run the risk of damaging the valves (if they aren't already) by doing a compression test. But at this point, I am ready to just say eff it and just do the compression test. Maybe do it with the timing chain cover off and manually put tension on the chain...idk about that though.
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:58 AM
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Just scraped and cleaned. Carefully of course. Needs to look like new clean metal for the MLS head gasket to work. They were still as flat as I could measure (checked using a .001" feeler and a steel straightedge)
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2015, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NismoGT View Post
Here are pics of the lower oil pan



And the oil filter canister

with that amount of carnage I would have thought that a strip down and thorough cleanup was necessary - unless you want to go through the process again
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