TUB44 Rebuild or B44 "Hybrid"?

[diyanich]

Compression test doesn't involves engine running,just cranking for a few seconds each time you change the cylinder.I personally would do it just like that,but to be on the same side,just bolt the oil pan back refill with a minimum oil needed and proceed,ah a new filter wouldn't hurt,so you have less glitter passing into the oil passages.

When I bought the X it had the guides failed and no oil pressure...that said,I couldn't be sure about the previous guy stopping it right away it lost the pressure or driving for a while just like that,before the guides overheated and failed.

In your case if the oil pressure is still there,I personally see no reason to spend more money than needed.Only if the compression test shows good numbers.


If you go the rebuild road get a kit from these guys.The generic chinese copies are not easy to perform the timing alone.
Every guy that used this kit had positive and trouble free experience.Some of them had to get it anyways to retime after using chinese counterfeits.
G.A.S. BMW Tools

Originally Posted by NismoGT

That is what concerns me now. I dont really want to pull the heads and replace valves.




I did not perform a compression test yet. Can I still perform one with the lower oil pan dropped and get accurate numbers? It would be a blessing if I only had to do the timing chain, maybe VANOS refresh and other regular maintenance stuff.

[NismoGT]

Originally Posted by diyanich

Compression test doesn't involves engine running,just cranking for a few seconds each time you change the cylinder.I personally would do it just like that,but to be on the same side,just bolt the oil pan back refill with a minimum oil needed and proceed,ah a new filter wouldn't hurt,so you have less glitter passing into the oil passages.

When I bought the X it had the guides failed and no oil pressure...that said,I couldn't be sure about the previous guy stopping it right away it lost the pressure or driving for a while just like that,before the guides overheated and failed.

In your case if the oil pressure is still there,I personally see no reason to spend more money than needed.Only if the compression test shows good numbers.


If you go the rebuild road get a kit from these guys.The generic chinese copies are not easy to perform the timing alone.
Every guy that used this kit had positive and trouble free experience.Some of them had to get it anyways to retime after using chinese counterfeits.
G.A.S. BMW Tools

Couldn't a loose timing chain throw off compression numbers thought? If both valves do not completely close due to too much slack in the chain, you can't get a good seal and you will get an inaccurate reading.

However, if i do perform a compression test, is there any way to flush the metal shavings out before I rotate the engine any more?

[diyanich]

A loose chain wouldn't make valve timing overlap,a few skipped teeth would.
In this case..do a leak down test,which is : manually turning the crankshaft so the piston gets into a TDC put a pressure into cylinder.If you have bent valves then you know it right away.
There are a few threads discussion this method here.

Originally Posted by NismoGT

Couldn't a loose timing chain throw off compression numbers thought? If both valves do not completely close due to too much slack in the chain, you can't get a good seal and you will get an inaccurate reading.

However, if i do perform a compression test, is there any way to flush the metal shavings out before I rotate the engine any more?

[Plattus1000]

If you need a running, in car m62tub44, I am about to pull mine for an engine swap. 155k miles, light vanos rattle and the timing guides should be done in the next 20k miles. I assume the previous owner did them @ 100k but they never gave me paperwork to support that notion so best to be safe.
No codes and always serviced at bmw certified shops running full synthetic oil on every change.

I would stick with the tu44. Easier job rebuilding it than swapping in a b44 and dealing with electrical issues.
In my humble opinion. BTW, sorry the rig you bought had issues when you got it.

[NismoGT]

Originally Posted by diyanich

A loose chain wouldn't make valve timing overlap,a few skipped teeth would.
In this case..do a leak down test,which is : manually turning the crankshaft so the piston gets into a TDC put a pressure into cylinder.If you have bent valves then you know it right away.
There are a few threads discussion this method here.

It's kind of taking a risk because if the timing is off, I risk further damage. However, if I don't do the compression test, the only other way of checking is pulling the head. Which I am not trying to do. but I guess it's already effed up.

Originally Posted by Plattus1000

If you need a running, in car m62tub44, I am about to pull mine for an engine swap. 155k miles, light vanos rattle and the timing guides should be done in the next 20k miles. I assume the previous owner did them @ 100k but they never gave me paperwork to support that notion so best to be safe.
No codes and always serviced at bmw certified shops running full synthetic oil on every change.

I would stick with the tu44. Easier job rebuilding it than swapping in a b44 and dealing with electrical issues.
In my humble opinion. BTW, sorry the rig you bought had issues when you got it.

Yea. I planned on keeping the VANOS setup. The only thing I would plan on swapping was the VANOS heads to the B44 block. But I am favoring just doing the chain and VANOS on my broke one and selling the B44. Almost feel like I wasted 5hrs of my Sunday pulling this engine from a BMW conveniently located in a puddle. I hate that salvage yard. They wont move vehicles so you dont have to work under water.

[David.X5]

Funny. This is how I ended up with my X, too. Bought it with a badly rattling timing chain, pulled the engine and rebuilt everything related. Never ran it until after the rebuild. Mine had damage to the front cover, the guides were badly shredded but the chain had not broken. Lots of debris.... Clean the oil pump pickup very carefully - maybe even replace the oil pump. Pulled the heads and found no visible damage to the valves or cylinders, so cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been strong ever since. Just recently dropped the oil pan to replace the upper oil pan gasket which had started to leak after 2.5 years. My fault I guess... Did the Besian VANOS rebuild process at the same time. All new chains and guides and tensions of course. Reconditioned all my lifters while it was apart.

[NismoGT]

Originally Posted by David.X5

Funny. This is how I ended up with my X, too. Bought it with a badly rattling timing chain, pulled the engine and rebuilt everything related. Never ran it until after the rebuild. Mine had damage to the front cover, the guides were badly shredded but the chain had not broken. Lots of debris.... Clean the oil pump pickup very carefully - maybe even replace the oil pump. Pulled the heads and found no visible damage to the valves or cylinders, so cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been strong ever since. Just recently dropped the oil pan to replace the upper oil pan gasket which had started to leak after 2.5 years. My fault I guess... Did the Besian VANOS rebuild process at the same time. All new chains and guides and tensions of course. Reconditioned all my lifters while it was apart.

I think I am going this route. Rebuilding the timing components and VANOS. Trying to flush out as much of the debris as possible (I'll have to figure this procedure out). Did you deck the block and heads before reassembly or just scrape and clean the mating surfaces?

[David.X5]

Just scraped and cleaned. Carefully of course. Needs to look like new clean metal for the MLS head gasket to work. They were still as flat as I could measure (checked using a .001" feeler and a steel straightedge)