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#101
05-11-2016, 11:28 PM
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#102
05-28-2016, 05:28 PM
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Good day all!
It has been some time again. I have not gotten a lot done due to parts and my new job. Four days a week at work has turned into six days a week. I'm still trying to figure that one out... So, I have all the piston and rods in. I finished the heads and even put the VANOS on the cams noting the Pass head has the vacuum slot...    I also put the timing chains on so that I could hook up the oil pump and put the oil pans on. I took out the wheel stud in the bottom of the oil filter cap and put in the new plug I got... Mental note: if the new one gets buggered up, leave it alone!! It doesn't HAVE to come out to change the filter...    Flywheel, real main seal, and all bolts torqued... Flywheel bolts got locktite...  Okay, now the fun stuff! I got the new guide rails for the timing chains... It escaped me to get the bits that go with the new rails... Pay attention to the stuff under the new items, especially if the original old part is "ENDED"!! So, I didn't get the new bolts for the rails... Here is the difference and the reason for the new bolt...  New bolt is larger and longer... I don't have the new bolt yet... I'll explain why a little later...     And the biggest improvement noticed with these... This is incredible!!  And the last one!!  This is the issue!! I can't get more done until I get the new bolts!! I would put the cylinder heads on, but this motor needs the lower chain cover on first...  Well, I wouldn't say "NEEDS" the lower chain cover on, but things are much easier if it is... Okay, here is the issue with the bolts... I looked up the part number on realoem... Just like I always do... Find the correct diagram... Find the part needed... Look at the number next to that part... Scroll down until you hit that number and go across the line for the desired part number... Ahem.............. That didn't work out well this time!! It appears that not all options are designated with that number you scroll down to... Numbers 8 and 11 in my case... 8 and 11 are for the ORIGINAL bolts to be used with the "ENDED" guide rails... The new bolts that should have the 8 and 11 are listed under the new rails, but have dashes... So, I ordered two of what I already have!!!! This is the WRONG part number for the new rails!!!  Once I get all this done, I will be making a complete and triple verified list of parts for this... So, until I get the two bolts, I'm stuck here... Cheers for now!!!
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#103
05-28-2016, 06:16 PM
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 Awesome progress!Please keep us updated!
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#104
05-28-2016, 09:58 PM
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Looks great!
__________________
Current- --2003 X5 4.6 Estoril Blue Black Nappa leather rear air bags OEM nav OEM hitch OEM cargo liner Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors 2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles... 2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles... 2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles... 2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles... Previous wheels: --First love~ 1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~ --2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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#105
06-03-2016, 11:23 PM
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Good day all!!
Well, I got the bolts the other day! And here's all I got done... Here is the difference between the bolts... And the correct part number...   These came in handy for this motor...  The boring stuff!! Cover is on and all torqued...  I put sealant despite the pan gasket having it included... Do your own thing here...   I have both heads completely assembled so I had to take this off to get the bolt in and locked down... You also have to assemble the socket and extension through the Valvetronic...     Some of these have to be turned to get them all installed... I have all the cams so they aren't putting any real pressure on the valves... So, you need to rotate each cam, one at a time and lock it in at that time...  I set it up, but didn't tighten down the cam bolts yet...  THIS IS MY METHOD!!! GO WITH WHAT YOU KNOW AND TRUST!! I put all this work in to get this right, so I'm going to make sure the valves are not going to hit prior to timing... I am able to rotate the motor over without the cams moving... I located and locked in one cam at a time...    So, when you have everything set, the 5-8 cylinders should look like this when at TDC... TDC is always for cyl 1...   Cylinders 1-4... I didn't get a good picture like I did with 5-8... I will before I progress any further...  Tool locked in place for the crank...  When using the locking tools, make sure you hold it in place with the bolt... You need to remove the oil rail to use that bolt hole... The cam bolts get 60 ft/lbs... The tensioner tool didn't have any pressure value that I could find!! I just snugged it up...   All done for now...   Here is another bit I found that some may not be aware of... This bracket has the same locking supports as the crank caps... This is not in place yet... Other bolts are tightened up... I snugged these up as well... Think it calls for 20 ft/lbs...  8mm allen tightens it down...  Then the locking bolt that goes through it... You can get the cover bolt on with this in place... You can NOT get the guide bolt on with this in place... Ask me how I know... Ahem!!! After you get this far, it is recommended that you rotate it a couple times and reinstall the tools to verify timing is still correct... I didn't get that picture... Cheers for now all!!! Stay tuned for the install... And the first start-up!! Unless it fails, then I will mysteriously have won the lotto and move to the Caribbean!!! Cheers all!!!
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#106
06-09-2016, 09:00 PM
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Good day all!!
Well, it has been a fun time these past few days!! Here is another picture of the cam positions at TDC...    Oh, don’t forget to clean this bracket!! It tells you a secret!!  I got all the brackets on the front... And the VANOS solenoids installed... Make sure they go all the way to the block!!    Here are the brackets...     And I didn’t mess with these the entire time!!    For the valve covers... Get these!!!Mine are on the way...I would have them today, but I somehow missed ordering them this last go around...They should be here tomorrow...  Okay, that brings me up to today (9 June 2016)...... For the past few days I have been thinking about the union between the inner metal tube and the timing chain cover...I didn’t get the new tube...I just couldn’t justify the 63 bucks for a gasket...So, I made the seal out of some O-rings...However, in my mind when I set the initial position, I pictured a thin “oil pan” type gasket...Not the 1.5mm think gasket...I didn’t put two and two together until after I had it all together...So, I pulled it apart today to make sure this was not going to be the “common” failure point in this motor...I was right to do so too...I found the O-ring barely touching the timing cover...  However, I also discovered that the gasket sealer got pushed through the gap between the tube and the gap...  I pulled this cover to access the pipe... If you reuse your old cover with just sealer holding it in place, be ready for some slow going getting it off...I pried up on the tube opening until I noticed the whole plate flexing!!I thought I was going to break the casting right where it dips down into the block...BUT, I am sure it won’t leak when I put it back!! So, I couldn’t get the tube free at the end... But, with no cover, I could wrap my hands around it here and spin it...I pulled the tube all the way out and started over... I initially had two O-rings that were the same size... They fit between the pipe and the block...I used one of those and the old O-ring from the other end of the pipe...It was just about 4mm thick and gave me the perfect amount of room between the block and cover...  With the cover off, my fingers kept hitting this gasket sealer... Grrrr!!The O-ring is just barely touching the cover here...And it has room to get pushed into the space where the second O-ring use to be...  And the inside of the pipe... I feel confident this will provide way more seal than should be required...And dare I say, WAY better than the original method, even if it isn’t as pretty...  Ahhhhh, now the part that bothered me the whole time about this “rework”!! Pulling the cover off without touching the heads or timing...Oddly, it wasn’t that hard pulling it apart...Drop the bottom and top oil pan...I just loosened the top pan...    Slowly work the cover off evenly!! Getting it back on is a bit more...... Annoying...Ya gotta make sure you get the thin layers of the gaskets in place before you get crazy about pushing the cover back in place...It is a tight fit under the head gaskets!!And the front of the oil pan gasket will catch on the cover when it is almost in place...   New pipe!! Get it...It’s only about $20...  FYI... They put the pin and the crank key lined up with this rib on the cover when you are at TDC...  That is about it for now... Almost time to get installed...I’m going a little slow now so I don’t rush to install it and forget something in the process...Think I may put the covers on now so I don’t have to deal with them later...  Cheers for now all!! Last edited by williamx5; 06-09-2016 at 09:10 PM.
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#108
06-09-2016, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
I have not yet... I actually didn't know there was another gasket in there... Good to know!! I might go do that right now... I'm curious!! Thanks for tuning in and sharing the info!! Cheers!!
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#109
06-09-2016, 11:26 PM
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BMW doesn't sell it but you can find it here:
BMW News, Parts, and Repair Tech Tips by BMP Design: Tech Tip: BMW Brake Booster Vacuum Pump Seal Kit Removal & Installation (V8 N62 Engines)
__________________
'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M.
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#110
06-10-2016, 12:35 AM
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This is pure mechanical porn
__________________
2004 X5 3.0 6 Speed MT Build Date - 09/03 156K Alpine White / Black Premium & Cold Weather Packs, Nav, Tons of lighting mods, 4.8is Exhaust, Headers, Eibach Springs, OEM 87's, Custom DME Tune, OEM Hitch. 2005 X3 3.0i - 100K - Blue water Metallic / Black 2005 X5 3.0i - 140K - Alpine White / Hellbeige 2 
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