You people suck. 12 years later, I finally replace speakers.

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

And SemcoMike thank you for posting those pics of the DSP amp, most helpful indeed, I will be doing more research and hopefully I can find a solution that doesn't take much modification, and can be wired up easily to keep the OEM DSP amp happy -

hope this helps somehow. https://xoutpost.com/1105558-post5.html

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

hope this helps somehow. https://xoutpost.com/1105558-post5.html

Clockwork,

Yes, that was very helpful.

It confirmed for me that my parallel wiring scheme for the two 8ohm dual voice coil DSP speakers is a 2ohm load.

My Power Acoustik RZ1-2300D mono block amp is happy with that and is rated at 1400 watts @ 2ohms.



Mike

[Ricky Bobby]

Yep - which actually goes up to my comment above from the E39 boards - "each voice coil is hooked up to a separate channel of the DSP amp getting 40w approximately per channel at 8ohm impedance) -

Now if only I could figure out how to get two 4ohm single voice coil subs wired up so that the amp would see an 8ohm load at the same wattage, we'd be in business - or so I think.

[Clockwork]

ok, you didn't ask for it, but I'm gonna give it anyhow... my review of adding two Fountek speakers in dashboard and a JL C2-600 set in front doors with factory mid bass and mid range still in rear doors with a DSP system (and I have always had a 10" aftermarket sub and amp (I can't recall if I tapped my LOC into the wire harness signal going INTO factory amp (ie pre-crossover signals) OR wires going FROM factory amp (ie signals already put through factory crossovers).

Music selection:
a LOT of EDM and Movie Scores/Orchestra (talk about A-Z spectrum)

Music Source:
I RARELY use my CD player (probably best sound source tho to perform testing) but I do use my GROM (with 320kbps MP3's) and SiriusXM Sat radio (WORST quality to do this review with BUT gave me the biggest difference in audio quality which is what I was going after).

The change of the mid range and tweeters was day compared to night. I say day first because now the sounds coming from those 4 speakers are bright and not muddled or sounding dull/lacking vocals.
I have never thought the mid bass speakers were an issue with sound quality as they play decent bass frequencies without distortion and I don't rely/expect them to do what a mid range and tweeter should do. AND so after I installed the Mid Range, Tweeters and Mid Bass I didn't notice a difference in what sounds were reproduced with the C2-600W (woofers) speakers compared to the factory mid bass and therefore thought I wasted many hours on making the speaker swap.

after a few days of driving, I thought why not compare the factory rear door speakers to the new front door/dash speakers so this morning I had a sound off using the FADE buttons on MID... I have to admit now the new C2-600W speakers make a LOT more sound of higher quality (less bass in my opinion) but they play the 80-800hz range (with an emphasis on the 200-800hz range) much cleaner than the factory did. the factory rear mid ranges are disgusting dull sound now compared to the Fountek (and most likely the added sounds of the tweeters as I can not separate where the 2 new sets of speakers overlap)

Since I drive and am never in back seat and rarely have passengers who will appreciate the upgraded sound, I'm debating not even putting the JL C2-600W OR Fountek speakers, I just bought from semcoinc, IN the rear and leaving it as is. The Front speakers steal ALL attention.

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

after a few days of driving, I thought why not compare the factory rear door speakers to the new front door/dash speakers so this morning I had a sound off using the FADE buttons on MID... I have to admit now the new C2-600W speakers make a LOT more sound of higher quality (less bass in my opinion) but they play the 80-800hz range (with an emphasis on the 200-800hz range) much cleaner than the factory did. the factory rear mid ranges are disgusting dull sound now compared to the Fountek (and most likely the added sounds of the tweeters as I can not separate where the 2 new sets of speakers overlap)

Since I drive and am never in back seat and rarely have passengers who will appreciate the upgraded sound, I'm debating not even putting the JL C2-600W OR Fountek speakers, I just bought from semcoinc, IN the rear and leaving it as is. The Front speakers steal ALL attention.

Hi Clockwork,



However, with the caveat that I got a nice improvement in the rear door woofers by using the budget priced Dayton Audio units combined with C2 tweeters.

Likewise, I stream a fair amount of EDM and appreciate the new found crispness and clarity that the new mids and tweeters have brought to the party and the low end clarity that the C2s bring.

I don't ride in the rear seats either but I can hear the benefit of my modest speaker upgrade investment back there

Mike

PS: Thanks for the subwoofer wiring link. That was really helpful.

[Clockwork]

Semcoinc, the more I think of it, I will be installing the Fountek's in the rear doors cause I really enjoy their upgrade so I may as well spend a few hours on the mid bass to then and let the silicon dry as I replace the window regulator clips and sliders.

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[Ricky Bobby]

^Agreed Mike - I would definitely tend to the regulator clip and slider clip (1 of each on the rear doors) while you are upgrading the speakers - door carriers if necessary but I don't feel that those carriers tend to go as often as the fronts (from lack of use maybe)

[Ricky Bobby]

^Yep very helpful! I guess I will have to follow some wires to see how the factory DVC 8ohm DSP subs are wired - However I think this calculator does not anticipate each coil is run by a separate channel of the amp (as we discovered previously, factory wiring uses a channel per voice coil)

If the factory DSP amp sends approx 40W RMS to each voice coil at 8ohms, wondering if I can just use a lower RMS power sub SVC (at 8ohms) and bridge both channels together for each- Just imagine this times 2 - I figure use 2 channels per sub on a SVC setup to replicate this. Or does this not make sense?

[Clockwork]

RB i believe you have to calculate the subs impedance as if there are four 8 ohm subs.

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[Clockwork]

i want to sell it to buy my dream car...2003 e39 M5 but wifey hates the look of that M5 and loves the look, drive, comfort of my e31. i tell her the e39 is more reliable yet still a no-go.

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