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  #351  
Old 03-19-2017, 09:05 PM
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So I judge by your pics and your posts that this is probably the best $200 so far spent on your X? You're not kidding holy shit those tweeters and woofers look like they belong in those locations!
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  #352  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
RB, I'm just waiting for silicone to cure before putting the perfect fitting JL woofers back into the doors.
Those C2's are what I used in the E46 front. They are VERY nice!

Another interesting thing I did for the E46 was to reuse the OE tweeter mounts. I am 99% certain they are the same mounts as on the E53. What? I had my dremel handy. Once I removed the speaker guard on the front of the OE mount, the JL tweeter just slides right in. I secured the tweeter in the OE mount with the GTMat stuck to the back.

I agree that it's totally unnecessary, but it was also kinda cool to figure out.
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  #353  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:05 PM
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I'm FINALLY able to hear the trebble and mid range I have always wanted. The woofers are nice but my 10" sub and aftermarket amp took care of any missing frequency below 120 anyhow. So I could have just upgraded the mid and tweet and been happy I bet BUT why stop there if I have the parts? I do think I can hear different sounds from the woofers tho (tho it could be mind tricks) but no doubt about the tweeter and mid range upgrade!!!!!

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Last edited by Clockwork; 03-24-2017 at 11:46 PM.
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  #354  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:08 PM
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Sadly I have induced a rattle in drivers door that I only hear when deep frequency plays with no other (like a piano key). I noticed it before putting door cards back on but it's odd. The left most screw area is the reverberation area. So if I pressing on that area it goes away but there is only so much I can tighten the screw. I may have to look at inside the door (window regulator area). Ugh.

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I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

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  #355  
Old 03-19-2017, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PropellerHead View Post
Those C2's are what I used in the E46 front. They are VERY nice!

Another interesting thing I did for the E46 was to reuse the OE tweeter mounts. Once I removed the speaker guard on the front of the OE mount, the JL tweeter just slides right in.
I looked at dropping the JL C2 tweeter into factory tweeter housing but the housing was just a smidge too small from what I tried.

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I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

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  #356  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:27 AM
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Mike I'm really glad you liked your JL C2/Fountek upgrade!

With 12-13 year old door panels and such I would expect to want to do some sound deadening, even without upgrading my speakers, just over the years and taking the door panels off a few times I notice the occasional rattle on mine. I am probably going to get some GTMat like Prop and either do the inside of the door panels or put it on some areas of the door skin when I do my door speakers.

Also take a look at the area where the door panel meets the sail panel of the tweeter - I had a bit of a rattle there and stuck a piece of sticky felt on the sail panel in that spot before I put my door panel back on last time and it actually helped a lot -
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2003 X5 3.0i 5-Speed - Born on 9/18/2003
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Proud 3-Pedal owner, UUC SS/AFE/4.8iS Exhaust/Sharked
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  #357  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:47 AM
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I am equally pleased with the C2 woofers and tweeters in the front doors of my E53. No rattles detected.

The TR series JL woofers are doing a very respectable job in the E46 front doors and rear deck. A very tight fit to the E46 front door without cutting any sheet metal.

Speaking of rattles, I was tuning the E46 system (OE HK set up in sedan) with my upgrades yesterday and picked up a buzz/rattle in the HK subwoofer 6x9 on the driver side. I suspect it may be a fractured foam like I found in the 15 year old mid ranges and these factory 6x9s are the last OE speakers remaining in the car.



So, for $30 I have a set of Pyle PLSL6902 coming to make the speaker replacement upgrade complete. The factory mounting housing looks to be about 2.25" deep and these have a depth of 2.125" so really looks to be the right fitment.

Pyle PLSL6902 6"X9" Slim Mount Speaker 2-Way Coaxial W/ 1" Voice Coil & Tweeter 68888743082 | eBay



Mike
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  #358  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:11 AM
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Just adding this as I'm doing DSP amp research into a solution that one can keep the factory enclosure and DSP amp happy, while upgrading the factory subwoofers in the rear of the E53 to something of a bit better quality construction -

Bob Hazelwood of Cambridge Soundworks and ADS fame writes...
"...the DSP amplifier uses a series of Philips chip amplifiers which are actually pretty good . There are four woofer channels feeding the two dual voice coil woofers. Each of these channels can produce 40W RMS into 8-Ohms at low distortion."



Based on that I am guessing the key is to try to find DVC subs as replacements (as Prop found out with his Pyles!) and not single voice coil


Although I have limited wiring experience, if you have 8ohm, SVC subs, you would hook them up to only use one channel on each sub (can you do that?) -

For example these Dayton woofers I referenced are 30W RMS so if you hook up each sub to 2 channels of the factory wiring, yes you would have 2 unused subwoofer channels compared to the factory setup, but you would still be well within factory wattage per channel and keeping impedance the same (I think)

Everything I'm reading says that if you take the + and - connections of a DVC and wire them together (parallel?) to go to a SVC sub replacement, you'd be cutting impedance by double, so a 2ohm load? Which would not be healthy on the amp I believe -

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm theorizing.
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105k miles -Topaz Blue/Schwarz/Titan Int. Trim/EHCII/Sport
Proud 3-Pedal owner, UUC SS/AFE/4.8iS Exhaust/Sharked
2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 -
68k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards

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  #359  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post

Everything I'm reading says that if you take the + and - connections of a DVC and wire them together (parallel?) to go to a SVC sub replacement, you'd be cutting impedance by double, so a 2ohm load? Which would not be healthy on the amp I believe -

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm theorizing.
This is the way I have connected my OE DSP sub to an aftermarket sub amp. All four (+) wired together and all four (-) wired together to a single speaker termination block.





My one sub output channel is split into two (L + R) going into the amp



and the mono amp feeds the one speaker termination mod on my OE DSP Sub.

Sounds good to me, but I am open to electrical input from the group on this set up as to the wiring route I have taken on the OE DSP sub.

Thanks in advance.

Mike
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  #360  
Old 03-20-2017, 12:17 PM
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Hmmmm, interesting - I'm wondering what kind of impedance that gives you - I guess I have to see how the stock subs are wired in my DSP setup from the factory to the factory amp -

Just theorizing, but based on the limited wiring I am taking in, if I take single voice coil replacements that are 4ohm and wire them up I can make the impedance the amp reads into an 8ohm load which would (technically) be how its set up from the factory (I think)
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2003 X5 3.0i 5-Speed - Born on 9/18/2003
105k miles -Topaz Blue/Schwarz/Titan Int. Trim/EHCII/Sport
Proud 3-Pedal owner, UUC SS/AFE/4.8iS Exhaust/Sharked
2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 -
68k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards

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