You people suck. 12 years later, I finally replace speakers.

[c-bass]

Originally Posted by kspark

Just finished replacing the front 6 speakers. Pretty simple. I would rate the project a 3/10 for difficulty.

I used 6.5" Infinity Primus PR6510CS components and 2.75" Memphis PRX27s. Wasn't hugely impressed with the build quality of either, but for less than $150 for all 6 I can't complain.

The dash mid-ranges were simple to install. It'd be a 5 minute job if the speakers were a direct swap, but modifying the Memphis ones took a while. I used a dremel to grind down the edge and enlarge one mounting hole. They definitely didn't look good, but they fit.

(I also punctured one of the Memphis cones. Tool slipped when grinding. The damaged speaker seems to work fine, but I bought a 2nd set. If anyone makes the same mistake let me know, I have a spare).

The 6.5" Infinity speakers fit the doors perfectly. I just bent the tabs to a 45 degree angle, and they held the speakers in place securely when I pushed them into the OEM surrounds.

If they were any bigger, they would not fit, so I appreciate the tip in this thread about that model.

Tweeters were super easy- pretty much a direct swap. I didn't even use silicone sealant there. Infinity provides a bit of foam tape I used.

The new speakers sound MUCH better.

I did add some sound deadening mat while I was in there - brand was Noico in 80 mil, used about 6 sqft. I have no idea what difference that made in sound quality, if any, but I noticed the doors feel a bit sturdier too. Only took a few minutes so I'd recommend it. You can cut the mat up and use it to tape wires down too.

Next project will be trying to add some low-end range.... I have a JL 10" W0 I'd like to squeeze in somewhere.

Anyone know if it's better to swap the DSP mini-subs, or just add the aftermarket sub+amp off a line out?

Sound deadening will add mass to the panel you're sticking it on lowering the resonant frequency aka it will make things heavier so they don't vibrate as much. The doors being made up of big flat pieces of metal are a perfect candidate for sound deadening and will make them sound more solid.

As far as the factory sound system. Brand new out of the box is was meh at best. My friend was showing off her brand new 330 convertible with the fancy premium sound system. It wasn't good at all and once you factor in the cost of this from BMW you would have been WAAAAAAAAAAY better off going aftermarket.

Trying to restore a factory BMW audio system is like an onion milkshake...doesn't make any sense

[Caryalon]

Originally Posted by kspark

Just finished replacing the front 6 speakers. Pretty simple. I would rate the project a 3/10 for difficulty.

I used 6.5" Infinity Primus PR6510CS components and 2.75" Memphis PRX27s. Wasn't hugely impressed with the build quality of either, but for less than $150 for all 6 I can't complain.

The dash mid-ranges were simple to install. It'd be a 5 minute job if the speakers were a direct swap, but modifying the Memphis ones took a while. I used a dremel to grind down the edge and enlarge one mounting hole. They definitely didn't look good, but they fit.

(I also punctured one of the Memphis cones. Tool slipped when grinding. The damaged speaker seems to work fine, but I bought a 2nd set. If anyone makes the same mistake let me know, I have a spare).

The 6.5" Infinity speakers fit the doors perfectly. I just bent the tabs to a 45 degree angle, and they held the speakers in place securely when I pushed them into the OEM surrounds.

If they were any bigger, they would not fit, so I appreciate the tip in this thread about that model.

Tweeters were super easy- pretty much a direct swap. I didn't even use silicone sealant there. Infinity provides a bit of foam tape I used.

The new speakers sound MUCH better.

I did add some sound deadening mat while I was in there - brand was Noico in 80 mil, used about 6 sqft. I have no idea what difference that made in sound quality, if any, but I noticed the doors feel a bit sturdier too. Only took a few minutes so I'd recommend it. You can cut the mat up and use it to tape wires down too.

Next project will be trying to add some low-end range.... I have a JL 10" W0 I'd like to squeeze in somewhere.

Anyone know if it's better to swap the DSP mini-subs, or just add the aftermarket sub+amp off a line out?

Did you use the Infinity crossovers? Or just the speakers?

[Happy]

I was able to get the DSP Subs to produce decent bass. However, the tune is pushing them pretty hard. Looks like their going to jump out of the frame! LoL...

[Clockwork]

I disconnected the DSP dual voice coil 6" subs and installed my own aftermarket amp and sub with box (in trunk) but just this summer, I removed that extra sub box and sub, and gutted the factory DSP subs box and fit a shallow mount 10" dvc MB Quarts sub and so it sits in factory DSP sub box location, with some plastic trimming to the cubby cover (cut hole out for sub to play through) and it's now fully out of my way and enclosed and sounds stellar. Not as good as an external sub box and conventional size 10" sub, but 85% there and more convenient for space.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[PropellerHead]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

ALSO, potentially running the C2-600X speakers in rear doors would give mid sub AND tweeter sounds, along with the factory mid range (or replace that mid range too), if one wanted to go that route to have all sound range covered.

Now see? I didn't think this is how this is supposed to work. I always thought the speaker was simply output. I have thought it would simply produce the signal that is sent to it. How well that happens to the listener is all about the specs we discussed earlier. That's why I did not worry ab the size (or intent) of the tiny tweeters I put in place of the rear mids. I figure they're gonna push out whatever they get sent.

So, if it's true that a coax speaker will produce highs and lows even if it's replacing a simple component mid, that opens up a lot of options for an upgrade. Clock? Are you sure that it would work? If so, at $35 I might still be convinced to replace the tiny rear tweeters I put into the mids with trimmed down Memphis Audio ones. They sound great now. I can even hear the highs from the rear while I am driving. I think the audiophile calls that imaging, but I dunno. But it's inexpensive to test if it would be better with larger speakers.

Thoughts from the group as well?

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by PropellerHead

Now see? I didn't think this is how this is supposed to work. I always thought the speaker was simply output. I have thought it would simply produce the signal that is sent to it.
So, if it's true that a coax speaker will produce highs and lows even if it's replacing a simple component mid, that opens up a lot of options for an upgrade.

Clock? Are you sure that it would work? If so, at $35 I might still be convinced to replace the tiny rear tweeters I put into the mids with trimmed down Memphis Audio ones. They sound great now. I can even hear the highs from the rear while I am driving. I think the audiophile calls that imaging, but I dunno. But it's inexpensive to test if it would be better with larger speakers.

Thoughts from the group as well?

It depends on how the stereo is set up. Speakers do just play the "data" input. It's how the data gets TO the speaker that matters and makes a difference.
When you removed the factory midbass, was there a frequency cancellation capacitor soldered onto the speaker? It would be soldered between the connection plug and speaker wire leading to the cone. Probably small black piece. If so it's likely the amp is pushing full sound range to speaker but this capacitor is cancelling out frequencies of unwanted range.
I'm also thinking since there are many wires run from amp to speakers, the amp has a dedicated crossover built in to the amp to do this frequency cancellation even before the signal leaves the amp.
I'd have to see the factory speaker honestly.
Doesn't hurt to try adding a coaxial speaker (they usually have no capacitor, or if they do it's to block low frequencies the speaker just can no reproduce cleanly)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[PropellerHead]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

It depends on how the stereo is set up. Speakers do just play the "data" input. It's how the data gets TO the speaker that matters and makes a difference.

Maybe since the system is stock up to the speakers, someone here knows how the OE radio and amp are set. I sure as hell don't.

Originally Posted by Clockwork

When you removed the factory midbass, was there a frequency cancellation capacitor soldered onto the speaker? It would be soldered between the connection plug and speaker wire leading to the cone. Probably small black piece. If so it's likely the amp is pushing full sound range to speaker but this capacitor is cancelling out frequencies of unwanted range.

I think they did- like the ones in the dash. We did not put it back on when we replaced with tweeters, but we did use it for the dash mids. They sound great.

Originally Posted by Clockwork

I'm also thinking since there are many wires run from amp to speakers, the amp has a dedicated crossover built in to the amp to do this frequency cancellation even before the signal leaves the amp.

Yes. I have heard that the DSP amp has a crossover and that there is no need to use the ones that come with some component sets. I think that was Jay who said that.

Originally Posted by Clockwork

So with your current set up of tweeters in the rear door mid range spot, I really like that idea of hearing more highs, BUT do you notice a lull or missing frequency range of 200-2,000 hz (realoem specs)?

I have no freakin idea what this would sound like. Sorry.

Originally Posted by Clockwork

my 850i had a missing frequency range of the 200-2,000hz until I fixed the foam surrounds of the mids (yes completely easy adn possible without buying new speakers) and its wonderful again. I'd hate to have that frequency range missing, BUT I guess since its just back seats anyhow, and you have the full range of music up front, its more just fill (imaging as you said) anyhow...

Woohoo!! I am getting pretty good at this! I even looked at a Grom(?) thing. I have Bluetooth, but it's not terribly loud. I (now) like the idea of HDRadio. And it would be cool to navigate my streaming audio from the steering wheel.

We'll see how the next proactive stop in to the mechanic goes. Next month is 6 years for this X5! I'm getting close to having it longer than the 3.0!

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by PropellerHead

If so, at $35 I might still be convinced to replace the tiny rear tweeters I put into the mids with trimmed down Memphis Audio ones. They sound great now. I can even hear the highs from the rear while I am driving. I think the audiophile calls that imaging, but I dunno. But it's inexpensive to test if it would be better with larger speakers.

Thoughts from the group as well?

So with your current set up of tweeters in the rear door mid range spot, I really like that idea of hearing more highs, BUT do you notice a lull or missing frequency range of 200-2,000 hz (realoem specs)?

my 850i had a missing frequency range of the 200-2,000hz until I fixed the foam surrounds of the mids (yes completely easy adn possible without buying new speakers) and its wonderful again. I'd hate to have that frequency range missing, BUT I guess since its just back seats anyhow, and you have the full range of music up front, its more just fill (imaging as you said) anyhow...