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  #11  
Old 03-16-2017, 07:30 PM
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Transmission runs out perfect before limp mode. In my mind, I can feel something catching/slipping/stumbling seconds/milliseconds before limp mode kicks in. Might be in my mind or could be just the limp mode process kicking in.
(Low fluid would also do this correct?)
Just pulled in my driveway from work, 5 miles, and everything was perfect. Costing to stop with break almost fully on, boom..Limp Mode.
Shop confirmed appointment at 9 am tomorrow morning for full software update. Going to have them check fluids one more time.
I will recommend the wire harness temp sensor as that kinda leads to the position switch low voltage and possible heat issue as well.
My only other thought would be replace the TCM which is fairly cheap and simple. If that module is shot, then that might be throwing all the faults and not actual be the sensors. We are hoping the new software will fix the TCM if that module is the issue.
FYI:We ended up taking the old position switch apart several more time and no one could find anything wrong with it. Very simple switch and all we can think is a short in the contacts as they run through the plastic which we can't see.
Anymore thoughts before the morning would be great. I really need to get this fixed tomorrow as the truck is my daily driver. Been dealing with this limp mode on and off since November and its really starting to get under my skin. Not to mention cost. FYI: Cost for old position switch rebuild/cleaning $250. Cost for new/used switch swap $275. Cost for transmission fluid and transfer case fluid change along with mechatronic adapter and new seals. $600. Restoring your dream car....Priceless!
Will post pictures and and update forum as soon as I get this sorted out.
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2017, 10:12 PM
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Good day!

Well, I'm not positive, but this sounds exactly like what I am still dealing with concerning my 2004... I got the vehicle with a bad motor that was rebuildable. I rebuilt the motor and figured I had a perfect X5... The same thing you have been dealing with turned up... Ran great! Shifted great! Vehicle was perfect........ until it warmed up... I did some research and discovered my issue was the faulty mechatronics (EGS) chip connections... I purchased a 2006 trans and pulled the EGS module from it to use in my 2004... I rebuilt my valve body and used the 2006 EGS... I had to purchase the ICOM and a dedicated computer to talk to the EGS as NCS Expert would not program over the bus line the EGS uses... After my program of the new EGS, the trans fail problem went away, but I'm still not getting the perfect vehicle I had with the old EGS (prior to failsafe)... I have hard shifts from 1 to 2... And from 3 to 2... And 3 to 4 has a flare... I've had the vehicle for a year and have only driven it for the past two months, mainly in manual shift mode... I can't race it... The trans gets confused and it actually let the motor tach out over redline twice... Not bad as the vehicle slowed rapidly, but still... I just got the motor right, I don't need the trans blowing it up... I've given up on the 2004 and will be installing the good motor in my 2006 tomorrow... Not sure what I will do with the 2004, but it isn't worth my time to keep playing with software and programming over and over...

Long story short... It might be the mechatronics in the bottom of the trans... BMW calls it the EGS... Different module than the TCM... I love my 2002 4.6is cause it doesn't have that EGS inside the trans...

Good luck!!!

Cheers!!!
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2001 E39 540i Sport 6 speed (10-12-2000 build date) Anthricite exterior / Tan interior (Zippy)
2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2004 E53 X5 4.4i (11-18-2003 build date) White exterior / Black interior (Whitney)
2004 E53 X5 4.4i (09-29-2003 build date) Black exterior / hellbeige2 interior (NEWEST - Becky)
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:59 PM
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The 2000 to 2001 4.4 had a bulletin that the Neutral safety switch goes bad and they go in limp mode. It actually happens when in park idling for 5-8 mins.

I have a 2002 that the dealer checked and said mine didn't fall in the TSB....Well I changed the switch, about $300 and it perfect now for about 2 years. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11mhoC00Tw_wcB

A part on the circuit board gets stored. Its mounted externally and easy to change. Not saying this is your problem but was mine. They changed the trans in 2006 with the X-drive.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:05 AM
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Software update completed. No dice. Still faulting into limp mode after the transmission warms up. So, indie shop started over diagnostically. After hours of researching and testing, they think they found the problem. This is ZF 6hp transmission which has external and internal position switch parts. I don't know all the technical terms here but as williamx5 stated: there is control module on the bottom of the mechatronic unit. Mechanic is calling it a conductor plate.
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:19 AM
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I am now on the hunt for the repair kit. Indie shop is telling me they used to make a repair kit for this. But, his OEM BMW parts dealer no longer stocks this part. Shop is telling me they found a used one on Ebay for $600 that comes with a 30 day warranty. If anyone else knows more about this part and can direct me to source for a new repair kit that is reputable, I would greatly appreciate that. I searched Ebay today (Saturday) and found a couple suppliers. ($395 + $80 shipping) But, not sure this is the correct part??? I have to wait until Monday to contact the Indie shop and tell them what i found. I prefer not to go used but since I don't know what I am looking for 100%, I am not sure if the parts on Ebay are the correct ones I need.
Indie shop is telling me the part needed is special to my year transmission and was only used one year in the 2005 zf 6hp transmission. Anyone else have input on this.
I can't call the shop today to get more details and plan on searching for the correct part this weekend, if anyone can confirm the exact part I need.
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  #16  
Old 03-18-2017, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb4realestate View Post
Software update completed. No dice. Still faulting into limp mode after the transmission warms up. So, indie shop started over diagnostically. After hours of researching and testing, they think they found the problem. This is ZF 6hp transmission which has external and internal position switch parts. I don't know all the technical terms here but as williamx5 stated: there is control module on the bottom of the mechatronic unit. Mechanic is calling it a conductor plate.
Well, I hope you have better luck than I did with mine!! I changed the fluid and filter thinking that would fix the issue... It didn't... You can check out some of the research I did concerning the issue and what I have done to get it resolved here...

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...roject-12.html

About half way down after the motor install is where I start playing with the transmission... I might be able to get it right if I take it to the dealer and have them update the software, but I'm trying to keep everything done to it here at the house... I'll get back to it after I get another motor... But, I may just use it as my first vehicle for the 6MT RWD conversion...

Good luck!!

Cheers!!
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2001 E39 540i Sport 6 speed (10-12-2000 build date) Anthricite exterior / Tan interior (Zippy)
2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2004 E53 X5 4.4i (11-18-2003 build date) White exterior / Black interior (Whitney)
2004 E53 X5 4.4i (09-29-2003 build date) Black exterior / hellbeige2 interior (NEWEST - Becky)
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:15 AM
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If your indie is not a ZF specialist I suggest you visit one in your area. Calling can work but usually going there will be more helpful. The diagnosis of some engine and transmission 'diseases' can be similar to medical symptoms, a second opinion is a good idea.
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:32 AM
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Options: New EGS from Bulgaria $600.00 range, Used EGS that is tested working with 30 day warranty $400.00 range or fully rebuilt mechatronics with new EGS for $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 range. Heck, I am even thinking about just doing a full transmission swap with a good used one as that might cheaper. What would you recommend?

If anyone has a bad mechatronic valve body laying around that has a working EGS, I would be interested in possible purchasing the EGS and send my bad EGS back. Form my readings, most mechatronic rebuild companies just want the core and when you send your bad Mechatronic off for rebuild, they will repair everything including the EGS. Any takers?
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2017, 12:05 PM
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I think what is best for you should be based on what your plans are for the future. Calculate how much you are willing to spend based on how many more miles you plan to drive before moving on to something else. Balance that against how much your X5 is currently worth in dollars and to you emotionally.. As an example, let's say you love and plan to keep it for an extended period of time and it is now worth $10,000. I would be wiling to put at least $5,000 into a daily driver driver to put another 25-30,000 miles on the clock. For simplification, rather than list the other things that might break during that period, it is easer to make a decision since might and could are far different than without doubt will.

At near 100,000 miles, if the transmission has to come out to be fixed, I would get a couple of quotes to do a rebuild. The devil you know is almost always better than the devil you don't know. Used transmissions and used parts are the devil you don't know. If it is only necessary to drop the pan, used parts make more sense as labor is less of a factor.
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Last edited by bcredliner; 03-19-2017 at 12:11 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2017, 02:54 AM
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when I first started to incurr the Trans Fail Mode with resulting ratio errors, etc. I did a pan drop fluid change, painful adaption process, and the problem entirely went away. Did another pan drop change about 15k later. Used Ford XT6-QSP Mercon fluid. Absolutely no issues in over 30k miles now since my first fluid change, and I drive it hard. Now over 185k miles on original motor/trans.
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