Parasitic Battery Drain e53

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by FocusArmy

Fuse 43 5A instrument panel causing drain and preventing sleep.

So given this nightmare issue I joined to present my findings that might help others.

So spent ages chasing down a 0.42 amp drain.

Came to fuse 43 pulled it, and alas drain dropped to 0.02 amp, then after 16 mins gear indicator light went off and it went to sleep.

Any idea what could be causing the drain in the instrument panel?

Are there any coding issues with panel if replaced and is it an difficult job to take it out?

Till then I'm just gonna pull the fuse each time i leave the car overnight.

That's a weird one. Not one of the typical causes for parasitic drain. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 15 minutes, then reconnecting?

[X5chemist]

Do you have a scanner to command sleep mode? If so, does it go so sleep and wake up right away?

[FocusArmy]

No it goes to sleep on its own and stays asleep.
But obviously i have to pull fuse 43 each evening until I figure out what's going on.

[X5chemist]

F43 feeds two connectors, instrument cluster and integrated electronic control unit.

X16 Component connector (18-pin, Black), Integrated electronic control unit (IKE)
X10113 Component connector (18-pin, Natural), Integrated electronic control unit (IKE)
You can unplug one at a time to determine which side is causing the problem.
Does the instrument cluster work normally? You can do a hidden menu function test on it.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

I'm still dealing with parasitic draw, and my X5 doesn't seem to be going to bed.

Maybe it's because I installed ebay shift knob, so the light on the shifter actually goes out, but not on the shift selector.
I tried doing the drop test but can't conclusively say that I've found what's sucking the juice.
After 16 minutes when the shift knob light goes out, I'm getting a reading of -0.112A when DMM is connected is series.
So basically 112 milliamperes, instead of 50 or so.
Given that I have a remote starter, it's gonna be drawing something. So the reading doesn't seem bad, but the car won't start after 2-3 days during the winter.
The battery seems to discharge so fast, yet the draw doesn't appear overly significant.
Maybe it's time to put in yet another new battery.

[X5chemist]

0.112 is a lot of milliamps. Mine at full sleep draws 11 mA. If it's not going to sleep, which fuses are causing problems? F11 and F60 were my issue. Eventually, replacing the GMIII fixed all my issues. Including fixing the BC button display features.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

I'll try the method of pulling the fuses and see what I get.
The voltage drop test was kindi quirky...sometimes it kept fluctuating, and I didn't feel I was getting proper readings on some fuses. But then I'd take the probes off or I would push them harder on the fuse, and the volts would settle at 0, so I didn't find anything obvious.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

I'm still dealing with parasitic draw, and my X5 doesn't seem to be going to bed.

Maybe it's because I installed ebay shift knob, so the light on the shifter actually goes out, but not on the shift selector.
I tried doing the drop test but can't conclusively say that I've found what's sucking the juice.
After 16 minutes when the shift knob light goes out, I'm getting a reading of -0.112A when DMM is connected is series.
So basically 112 milliamperes, instead of 50 or so.
Given that I have a remote starter, it's gonna be drawing something. So the reading doesn't seem bad, but the car won't start after 2-3 days during the winter.
The battery seems to discharge so fast, yet the draw doesn't appear overly significant.
Maybe it's time to put in yet another new battery.

You have an E53? That's not an E53 shift knob. The E53 shift knob has no connection to power, so yours may be the problem. What power source is it connected to?

[Bmwe5320023.0]

https://youtu.be/qXEY0Lh6xnM
This is how the shift knob is connected.
But the problem was there well before.


What do you guys have on this circuit in terms of draw?
F86 5A Auxiliary heater
If I pull this plug, there's 25 milliamp less of a draw. Not sure of that's normal or not.

Disconnecting the remote starter drops another 18 miliamps or so.

Disconnecting fuse 12 drops another 13 miliamps.
F12 5A Instrument illumination, steering position sensor

Pulling fuse 24 wakes up the vehicle for a couple of minutes
F24 30A Door function control module, passenger

Pulling fuse 25 drops it down another 26 milliamps
F25 25A Charging socket, cigarette lighter

Pulling fuse 44 wakes up the vehicle for 16 minutes
F44 5A Airbag, electric seats

Pulling fuse 58 wakes up the vehicle for a couple of minutes
F58 20A Sunroof

[andrewwynn]

Comfort access? Door handles are known to suck a lot of power when they fail.