Parasitic Battery Drain e53

[FocusArmy]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

F43 feeds two connectors, instrument cluster and integrated electronic control unit.

X16 Component connector (18-pin, Black), Integrated electronic control unit (IKE)
X10113 Component connector (18-pin, Natural), Integrated electronic control unit (IKE)
You can unplug one at a time to determine which side is causing the problem.
Does the instrument cluster work normally? You can do a hidden menu function test on it.

It all works normally but indicators are really playing up. At times I'll click left and right indicator goes off. Then neither work then sometimes they work and flash green on cluster but do opposite.

Any ideas?

Also where are the component connectors you mentioned located?

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Comfort access? Door handles are known to suck a lot of power when they fail.

E53 had comfort access?? My E53 definitely doesn't have that feature...

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

E53 had comfort access?? My E53 definitely doesn't have that feature...

No comfort access on E53. Andrew must have been thinking E70 stuff.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Makes sense, I remember he upgraded to E70 I think

Here's the summary of my draw.
If I disconnect the remote starter, just to make it easier to keep track of things, I have a draw of about 95 milliamps.

F86 5A Auxiliary heater
25 milliamp draw

F12 5A Instrument illumination, steering position sensor
13 milliamps draw

F25 25A Charging socket, cigarette lighter
26 milliamps draw

If I remove all these, I'd be sitting at 30 milliamps, which would be acceptable.

I wonder if I should keep looking what's drawing the last 30 milliamps and what I should do about these 3 circuits that I've identified?

[X5chemist]

Originally Posted by FocusArmy

It all works normally but indicators are really playing up. At times I'll click left and right indicator goes off. Then neither work then sometimes they work and flash green on cluster but do opposite.

Any ideas?

Also where are the component connectors you mentioned located?

You may want to start your own post. The connectors are behind the instrument cluster. After you determine which one is causing the draw, you can narrow it down further. Each connector is connected to something. Each wire would have to be back probed.

Since the turn signal indicators seem to have a short, I would replace the switch. It may eliminate your issues.

[X5chemist]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

"last 30 milliamps and what I should do about these 3 circuits that I've identified?"

What year is your X5?

F86 5A Auxiliary heater
25 milliamp draw
From 2003_09
Disconnect either the Antenna amplifier or Receiver, independent heating(?
)

F12 5A Instrument illumination, steering position sensor
13 milliamps draw
Powers: Gear Indicator light and Steering angle sensor.

F25 25A Charging socket, cigarette lighter
26 milliamps draw
Powers: unplug "Rear cigar lighter", front cigar lighter, or socket, radar warmer (it's probably the socket under the glove box)



The last 30 mA or anything above 11 mA, is probably the GMIII module awake from one of the above.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Originally Posted by FocusArmy

Also where are the component connectors you mentioned located?

short romantic beach poems

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

What year is your X5?

F86 5A Auxiliary heater
25 milliamp draw
From 2003_09
Disconnect either the Antenna amplifier or Receiver, independent heating(?
)

F12 5A Instrument illumination, steering position sensor
13 milliamps draw
Powers: Gear Indicator light and Steering angle sensor.

F25 25A Charging socket, cigarette lighter
26 milliamps draw
Powers: unplug "Rear cigar lighter", front cigar lighter, or socket, radar warmer (it's probably the socket under the glove box)



The last 30 mA or anything above 11 mA, is probably the GMIII module awake from one of the above.

It's 2002.
If I disconnect the antenna amplifier, I imagine the remote key won't work.
I also need the steering sensor to work.
The draw will go away if I disconnect those components, but I need them. I can replace the steering sensor and receiver antenna, but are they faulty for sure?

For the charging socket and cigarette lighter, I have an idea. I replaced front and rear cigarette lighters with this USB plug that also shows battery voltage.
My thought is they these sockets draw 26 milliamps.
For this one though, I can pull the fuse and leave without them.
https://a.co/d/dY3TcRa

BTW what socket under the glovebox you're referring to?

If I could fix F12 and F86 draws, that'd solve my problem probably.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

... For the charging socket and cigarette lighter, I have an idea. I replaced front and rear cigarette lighters with this USB plug that also shows battery voltage.
My thought is they these sockets draw 26 milliamps.
For this one though, I can pull the fuse and leave without them.
https://a.co/d/dY3TcRa ...

This.

These converters can draw quite a bit of power, even when not in use. I've seen one of these kill a good battery in a week...

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Based on my test, they're only drawing 26 milliamps, not too bad. I can just disconnect that fuse. Worse case, I can put the fuse back when I need something charged.
Otherwise I'm thinking about testing my battery.
I'm thinking about this tester, is it good enough?
https://a.co/d/6JYfBEF

I'm thinking maybe the battery died super fast because of the constant draw and discharging....