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  #101  
Old 10-12-2017, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfee03 View Post
Yep I totally agree with all you've said and again thank you for this expertise.

Just to clarify so there's no confusion- I have not bought a new battery. I just tested one out.

The car sat, without starting, for about 4 months. I had the positive terminal disconnected (in the engine bay) and the negative (in the trunk).

Are you saying I can recondition (and charge) my battery by connecting to another car for 24 hours? Without the other car running?
Yes, to "hopefully" recondition the battery cables connected for at least 24 hours without either vehicle running for the duration. I would just pull the battery and take it to a battery store and have it tested. if the battery reconditions it will then accept a charge. How old is the battery?
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  #102  
Old 10-12-2017, 03:03 PM
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I need to rephrase the "would not crank at times" to "would NEVER crank" when the voltage was under 12.2 with the bad ignition switch.

12.1 and you weren't going anywhere.

My e46 when it failed it was just a hit or miss when trying to crank it. The X5 was all voltage all the time.
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  #103  
Old 10-12-2017, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The symptom wasn't described as intermittent starts it was described as *never starts* without a jump. If jumping makes it start normally (always) it's not the ignition switch.

I've already said that diy load testing was a "poor man's load test". It's just to get a clue if you are on the right track. If the voltage drops to 6v on a start attempt you don't need to bother testing on the bench it's shot.

Not starting without a jump even if it happens everytime does not eliminate the ignition switch as a problem.

OP said it won't start without a jump but it sounds like he never charged the battery either. Hence my description of how to test the battery diy before taking in to the store: charge overnight and measure the voltage dip when starting the next day.
OP has at least attempted to charge the battery by running the engine. He mentions charging the battery in post 1 and in later posts as well.

Your poor man's battery test is not a load test and shouldn't be promoted as such. The battery could fail your test but if it is put through the reconditioning process be just fine. Readers can decide for themselves. A load test done by proper testing equipment is best practice, usually readily available and most of the time is free. There is no reason to take any risk by doing otherwise.

Over the years I have resolved lots of problems with shade tree engineering because I didn't have the funds to do otherwise. There were many times I saved money by not purchasing the proper equipment but also many times the shade tree engineering resulted in buying parts I didn't need. My input is from learning the hard way that the risk is too high that poor man's tests are insufficient, they are not a logical approach even if you have to strain the budget to do otherwise.

OP- if you are going to DIY, start buying the tools and testing instruments you are going to need. Justify them based then on the money you save on labor from DIY. Certainly a battery charger that reconditions and load tests is one of the first things to add. Buy a full featured charger, not a low end basic charger.

Reconditioning a sulfated battery is a somewhat involved so it is also a proper equipment process. While cables may do the job, best practice by far is to use proper equipment. 24 hours might get it done but reconditioning can take several days even a week or more. I shouldn't even have mentioned trying it with cables for that reason and there are also more steps to complete the process I didn't list. Just take the battery out and have it tested. If it tests bad ask them if it can be reconditioned. It is highly unlikely they will mention that it can. If it is several years I don't bother as once a battery is sulfated it cannot be brought back to maximum performance and a battery that is better than stock costs about $200 dollars.
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  #104  
Old 10-14-2017, 01:36 AM
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Possibly time for a new thread, but as you all have background I'll post here for now.

I put a new battery in. Was quicker/cheaper than messing around with the old battery.

The x5 starts nicely, but the gears are still not changing smoothly, and she drives terribly. Very slow acceleration.

It feels like the x5 doesn't know when to change gears...

I get a prog fail-safe message. But didn't get one before I put the new battery in. I hear they can relate to voltage?

Here are the faults from my odb (the misfires and o2 sensor has been an existing problem):

https://imgur.com/7jkGwt6
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Last edited by mcfee03; 10-14-2017 at 02:20 AM.
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  #105  
Old 10-14-2017, 03:26 AM
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The car will run like total crap if any of a couple key codes trip. Reset while it's running to see if you get it to run smooth then start to troubleshoot the cause.


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  #106  
Old 10-14-2017, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfee03 View Post
Possibly time for a new thread, but as you all have background I'll post here for now.

I put a new battery in. Was quicker/cheaper than messing around with the old battery.

The x5 starts nicely, but the gears are still not changing smoothly, and she drives terribly. Very slow acceleration.

It feels like the x5 doesn't know when to change gears...

I get a prog fail-safe message. But didn't get one before I put the new battery in. I hear they can relate to voltage?

Here are the faults from my odb (the misfires and o2 sensor has been an existing problem):

https://imgur.com/7jkGwt6

You need to get the codes reset. If its in failsafe mode it doesn't start out in first gear so it feels horribly weak. Failsafe mode on the trans will make a perfect running engine seem pathetic.
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  #107  
Old 10-14-2017, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The car will run like total crap if any of a couple key codes trip. Reset while it's running to see if you get it to run smooth then start to troubleshoot the cause.
Could you direct me to instructions where I can reset the codes while its' running?

I should also mention I head weird "clicking" sounds (and the lights dim slightly) randomly- even when the ignition is off. Is this a sing of something?
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Last edited by mcfee03; 10-14-2017 at 04:58 AM.
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  #108  
Old 10-14-2017, 05:41 AM
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On the cluster, I unlocked it and reset the computer with "21". I then did "2" which made all the dash light up. But still- the transfailsafe appears. Am I doing the right thing?
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  #109  
Old 10-14-2017, 07:47 AM
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No, You have to reset the codes with an ODB tool of some description. Does the one you used to read the codes allow error resets?

Edit: according to the codes you posted, cylinders 4,5, and 6 have misfires, and a MAF issue. You'll have to reset the codes via ODB2 and see if this helps. If they come back, you're looking at possible coils or plugs. It becomes a game of chasing down issues that can be expensive if you're not sure what you're doing.

Edit again: Please, stop doing random things if you're not sure what you're doing. You are better waiting( a couple of hours to a day) for a reply, than randomly going forward on a whim (like unlocking the cluster and resetting that) and experimenting. You can do some serious damage.
And just do one thing at a time. Nobody can troubleshoot if you start doing 4 things at once and something catastrophically fails.
Deep breaths, one thing at a time, and patience.
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Last edited by blakamin; 10-14-2017 at 08:03 AM.
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  #110  
Old 10-14-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by blakamin View Post
No, You have to reset the codes with an ODB tool of some description. Does the one you used allow error resets?
I've just got the ELM327 ODB 2 tool with the Torque app- so I don't believe I can reset it.

I have read that a new battery/jump starting can cause this (eg here)

I did this BMW-approved procedure:
- disconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable from the battery
- disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery
- short the (+) & ( - ) cable together for at least 10 minutes
- reconnect the positive (+) cable to the battery
- reconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable to the battery
- reset the clock


This will reset all modules and force them to reboot apparently.

I had the car door open when I did this (i'm paranoid about locking myself out)- maybe that doesn't matter?

I also tried to reset the computer like this

- Hold gas pedal down.
-Turn the key to the number 2.
- Continue to hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds.
- Release the gas pedal and press the BRAKE pedal for 10 seconds.
- Turn the vehicle on.


What else is left to try here?
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Last edited by mcfee03; 10-14-2017 at 08:07 AM.
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