Battery not charging (but battery light not on)

[andrewwynn]

That is textbook service advice


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[Crowz]

I need to rephrase the "would not crank at times" to "would NEVER crank" when the voltage was under 12.2 with the bad ignition switch.

12.1 and you weren't going anywhere.

My e46 when it failed it was just a hit or miss when trying to crank it. The X5 was all voltage all the time.

[mcfee03]

Possibly time for a new thread, but as you all have background I'll post here for now.

I put a new battery in. Was quicker/cheaper than messing around with the old battery.

The x5 starts nicely, but the gears are still not changing smoothly, and she drives terribly. Very slow acceleration.

It feels like the x5 doesn't know when to change gears...

I get a prog fail-safe message. But didn't get one before I put the new battery in. I hear they can relate to voltage?

Here are the faults from my odb (the misfires and o2 sensor has been an existing problem):

https://imgur.com/7jkGwt6

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

Possibly time for a new thread, but as you all have background I'll post here for now.

I put a new battery in. Was quicker/cheaper than messing around with the old battery.

The x5 starts nicely, but the gears are still not changing smoothly, and she drives terribly. Very slow acceleration.

It feels like the x5 doesn't know when to change gears...

I get a prog fail-safe message. But didn't get one before I put the new battery in. I hear they can relate to voltage?

Here are the faults from my odb (the misfires and o2 sensor has been an existing problem):

https://imgur.com/7jkGwt6

You need to get the codes reset. If its in failsafe mode it doesn't start out in first gear so it feels horribly weak. Failsafe mode on the trans will make a perfect running engine seem pathetic.

[andrewwynn]

The car will run like total crap if any of a couple key codes trip. Reset while it's running to see if you get it to run smooth then start to troubleshoot the cause.


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[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The car will run like total crap if any of a couple key codes trip. Reset while it's running to see if you get it to run smooth then start to troubleshoot the cause.

Could you direct me to instructions where I can reset the codes while its' running?

I should also mention I head weird "clicking" sounds (and the lights dim slightly) randomly- even when the ignition is off. Is this a sing of something?

[mcfee03]

On the cluster, I unlocked it and reset the computer with "21". I then did "2" which made all the dash light up. But still- the transfailsafe appears. Am I doing the right thing?

[blakamin]

No, You have to reset the codes with an ODB tool of some description. Does the one you used to read the codes allow error resets?

Edit: according to the codes you posted, cylinders 4,5, and 6 have misfires, and a MAF issue. You'll have to reset the codes via ODB2 and see if this helps. If they come back, you're looking at possible coils or plugs. It becomes a game of chasing down issues that can be expensive if you're not sure what you're doing.

Edit again: Please, stop doing random things if you're not sure what you're doing. You are better waiting( a couple of hours to a day) for a reply, than randomly going forward on a whim (like unlocking the cluster and resetting that) and experimenting. You can do some serious damage.
And just do one thing at a time. Nobody can troubleshoot if you start doing 4 things at once and something catastrophically fails.
Deep breaths, one thing at a time, and patience.

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by blakamin

No, You have to reset the codes with an ODB tool of some description. Does the one you used allow error resets?

I've just got the ELM327 ODB 2 tool with the Torque app- so I don't believe I can reset it.

I have read that a new battery/jump starting can cause this (eg here)

I did this BMW-approved procedure:
- disconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable from the battery
- disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery
- short the (+) & ( - ) cable together for at least 10 minutes
- reconnect the positive (+) cable to the battery
- reconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable to the battery
- reset the clock


This will reset all modules and force them to reboot apparently.

I had the car door open when I did this (i'm paranoid about locking myself out)- maybe that doesn't matter?

I also tried to reset the computer like this

- Hold gas pedal down.
-Turn the key to the number 2.
- Continue to hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds.
- Release the gas pedal and press the BRAKE pedal for 10 seconds.
- Turn the vehicle on.


What else is left to try here?

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

I've just got the ELM327 ODB 2 tool with the Torque app- so I don't believe I can reset it.

I have read that a new battery/jump starting can cause this (eg here)

I did this BMW-approved procedure:
- disconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable from the battery
- disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery
- short the (+) & ( - ) cable together for at least 10 minutes
- reconnect the positive (+) cable to the battery
- reconnect the ground/earth/(-) cable to the battery
- reset the clock


This will reset all modules and force them to reboot apparently.

I had the car door open when I did this (i'm paranoid about locking myself out)- maybe that doesn't matter?

I also tried to reset the computer like this

- Hold gas pedal down.
-Turn the key to the number 2.
- Continue to hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds.
- Release the gas pedal and press the BRAKE pedal for 10 seconds.
- Turn the vehicle on.


What else is left to try here?

As mentioned the gas pedal bit doesn't work on your car its from a much older bmw series.

The reset with the battery disconnect does reboot the computers but it does not clear codes. Its mainly for a hung module or some other funky problem. Not for code clearing.

You might want to just take it to a shop at this rate. I have a feeling you may do more harm than good the way things are going.