Wheel stuck on the X5

[Crowz]

I'll probably wait till this weekend to tackle it. Friday and Saturday are showing thunderstorms in the forecast right now so who knows.

I've got work to do for customers tomorrow and was to tired and sore to fool with it today

At this point the only thing I want to make sure that I don't damage is the wheel bearing. The spare is a full size and the same rim and looks brand new so worst case if I destroy or damage the wheel getting it off I at least have a good wheel to put back on while I hunt for a replacement.

I just do not want to do the wheel bearing again. I'm leaning twards that crazy method I linked the video to. The one with the jack and the chains as a worse case scenario. If the wood and bolts doesn't work out. I cant see that method hurting anything but the wheel itself.

[andrewwynn]

The jack/chain Method has no way to balance the load to prevent strain on the bearing. Pushing between spokes and rotor is the best bet for controlled force.


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[andrewwynn]

I just realized that my bearing press kit would work to push the wheel off. Even if I needed to add a wood plate to reach across the spokes I could use the bolts, nuts, washers to do the pushing.

Or: Almost identical to the jack and chains, use a nice big bolt like 1" bolt, taper to protect the threads and use some heavy metal like 2" square tubing and some nylon lifting slings instead of the chain so it won't hurt the rim. Put the bolt through the tubing, into the CV axle, sling around the spokes and large tubing. 1" bolt can push with 30T of force.

You can use an old rotor for the push just need to get creative how to attach the straps to the rotor.

[bcredliner]

Since you pulled the wheel on using the lugs it is now a press fit. Anything you do that doesn't pull the wheel straight off will cause further binding. In addition to the press fit attempts that didn't pull straight out may have dug up a ridge making it even more difficult. You are going to have to find a puller with an extremely hard bolt that is a one inch diameter that you can be sure pulls straight. If you purchase the one you posted I suggest you try to find a way to spread the pressure over a wider surface area than just the claws to have a better chance of saving the wheel. If the wheel bends rather than moves the problem will be worse. If it is already bent pulling straight is going to be extremely difficult. Obviously, lubricate liberally and often with light oil. Press the wheel back in to be sure it is flush with the hub. It will be difficult to get the wheel to pull straight rather than wedge. It will take an amazing amount of pressure to get it to move.

I ruined a bushing install/puller tool because of the same problem. I had to make one that wouldn't strip out and it still took me several tries to get it to move straight rather than make it worse. Very frustrating problem, stay calm and good luck.

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Since you pulled the wheel on using the lugs it is now a press fit. Anything you do that doesn't pull the wheel straight off will cause further binding. In addition to the press fit attempts that didn't pull straight out may have dug up a ridge making it even more difficult. You are going to have to find a puller with an extremely hard bolt that is a one inch diameter that you can be sure pulls straight. If you purchase the one you posted I suggest you try to find a way to spread the pressure over a wider surface area than just the claws to have a better chance of saving the wheel. If the wheel bends rather than moves the problem will be worse. If it is already bent pulling straight is going to be extremely difficult. Obviously, lubricate liberally and often with light oil. Press the wheel back in to be sure it is flush with the hub. It will be difficult to get the wheel to pull straight rather than wedge. It will take an amazing amount of pressure to get it to move.

I ruined a bushing install/puller tool because of the same problem. I had to make one that wouldn't strip out and it still took me several tries to get it to move straight rather than make it worse. Very frustrating problem, stay calm and good luck.

Well the only good part I guess is that so far I haven't bent the wheel. It still drives smooth.

Also nothing has moved outward wise at all so I guess I haven't dug up anything on the hub part.

I'm going to keep trying. If in the end it wont come off which I'm not willing to give up on it yet, I have a sawzall

Trust me I will happily sacrifice the wheel over the wheel bearing.

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I just realized that my bearing press kit would work to push the wheel off. Even if I needed to add a wood plate to reach across the spokes I could use the bolts, nuts, washers to do the pushing.

Or: Almost identical to the jack and chains, use a nice big bolt like 1" bolt, taper to protect the threads and use some heavy metal like 2" square tubing and some nylon lifting slings instead of the chain so it won't hurt the rim. Put the bolt through the tubing, into the CV axle, sling around the spokes and large tubing. 1" bolt can push with 30T of force.

You can use an old rotor for the push just need to get creative how to attach the straps to the rotor.

I want to try the blocks of wood with tnuts and large bolts behind each of the spokes first. The tricky part is the lack of clearance to get things inside the wheel to use against the rotor. I tried getting my porta power jaw attachment in there but there isn't near enough room to allow it in.

At least with this method I can go slowly and apply even force that wont be too far from the hub itself.

[andrewwynn]

That's exactly why I was thinking that's the best way.

The biggest in stock at my home Depot is 3/8 however it's 16 pitch vs half would be 13 and a grade 5 is rated for 4900# clamp force (pushing wouldn't be that high).

If you end up deciding to wreck the wheel to remove it just drill and tap through the spoke close as you can to the hub. I think you'll get it with the Tnut solution. Once you get a lot of preload and it doesn't pop off then hit it from the back. Deadblow on the spoke (tire absorbs too much). The guy with the jack/chain solution did exactly that.


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[Scott ZHP]

This is a common occurrence in the British car world, with splined hubs. We loosen the giant knockoff (nut) a couple of turns and drive in tight circles doing figure eights. The slip angle, rotation and weight transfer is almost always enough to break them free. Good luck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSFPd_IP8yU

[twinspool]

wow bud.. this is craxy and I hope you get this sorted out.. i didnt read all the posts but my concern is after you get the wheel off, replacing it with the spare that you have.. what is your plan to fix the issue?

you wouldnt want to be right back here after replacing the wheel.... know what I mean?

[Crowz]

The fix if I ever get the wheel off is to grind the hub down on the end where I mushroomed it out when I was doing the cv axles. Once that's done it wont be an issue again.

Just have to get the wheel off to grind it though.