Wheel stuck on the X5

[Crowz]

Yeah I'm so glad its over. As mentioned everyone be careful hitting the end of the hub it makes for a big nightmare later.

I ... hurt.... sooooo.... bad... right now.

I think I'm going to do nothing for the next two days. I may try to install the cable to use the factory gps antenna sunday but no promises.

Should be back up to full speed Monday.

[Fifty150hs]

Was going to suggest trying this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-...ler-95326.html

But glad you got it fixed!

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Was going to suggest trying this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-...ler-95326.html

But glad you got it fixed!

Im ordering that anyway but I am getting the 12 ton model. I can sooo see that coming in handy one day.

Funny thing about it the only thing that I could get a grip on the spokes with was the logging chains. They are so rounded at an angle that jaw pullers wont bite anywhere. I tried to lock my porta power behind a spoke before the chains and it just slid off no matter where I put it.

I didn't have anything small enough to get inside the center hub with pulling wise.

[Calipsoe]

Originally Posted by Calipsoe

From underneath the car try using a sledge hammer on the inner side of the rim with a block of wood to protect the rim. Rotate the wheel a quarter turn and do it again. After a couple rotations you might be able to break it loose.

I thought that would do the trick! You have additional leverage on the wheel hub by hitting the backside of the rim. Glad to hear the wheel is off.

[cn90]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Put the lug nuts back on the wheel, but loosen them one or two turns. Drive the car and slam on the brakes. This usually work for me.

Yep,

In the E39 5-series forum, people use this trick all the time.
Remember to add some antiseize around the hub bore during installation.

PS: I wonder if this should be routine when doing brake jobs (or other jobs requiring the wheels removal):
- Don't jack the car up yet, loosen all 4 wheels' nuts/bolts (whatever vehicle you own), this means loosening all 20 bolts.
- Tighten them back by hand loosen them one turn.
- Now drive the car in the driveway and slam on the brake.
- Now raise the vehicles for repair, the wheels should come off.

This may seem like overkill but it prevents jacking up the car, lowering it to do this trick, and jacking it up again.

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by cn90

Yep,

In the E39 5-series forum, people use this trick all the time.
Remember to add some antiseize around the hub bore during installation.

PS: I wonder if this should be routine when doing brake jobs (or other jobs requiring the wheels removal):
- Don't jack the car up yet, loosen all 4 wheels' nuts/bolts (whatever vehicle you own), this means loosening all 20 bolts.
- Tighten them back by hand loosen them one turn.
- Now drive the car in the driveway and slam on the brake.
- Now raise the vehicles for repair, the wheels should come off.

This may seem like overkill but it prevents jacking up the car, lowering it to do this trick, and jacking it up again.

The brake slamming method didn't work at all other than making the lug bolts not lined up.

Dropping the car from 1 foot in the air did nothing at all.

Using logging chains and a porta power didn't work.

Hammering on the tires and using a dead blow on the rim for a week didn't work.

What finally got the wheel off was someone using a really big hammer and me not caring if they destroyed the rim or not.

But again this entire thread was not the normal problem everyone has all the time.

Now when it comes to the normal bmw stuck wheel bit I prefer the drop method. Its reliable and for me always works. The slamming on the brakes was iffy and definitely worse on the lug bolts than the dropping since the breaking lose on the dropping happens after the tire meets the ground and its more a pop lean over than the drop itself knocking them loose.

Ive been using the drop method for years across multiple bmw's.



But for this thread it wasn't going to working since the wheels were stuck on because the hubs were mushroomed not because of seizing issues like people normally have.

[Crowz]

Shop guys got a kick out of me saying kill the wheel if you want but damage my wheel bearing and we've got problems.

Was not going thru redoing the wheel bearings again.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by cn90

Yep,

In the E39 5-series forum, people use this trick all the time.
Remember to add some antiseize around the hub bore during installation.

PS: I wonder if this should be routine when doing brake jobs (or other jobs requiring the wheels removal):
- Don't jack the car up yet, loosen all 4 wheels' nuts/bolts (whatever vehicle you own), this means loosening all 20 bolts.
- Tighten them back by hand loosen them one turn.
- Now drive the car in the driveway and slam on the brake.
- Now raise the vehicles for repair, the wheels should come off.

This may seem like overkill but it prevents jacking up the car, lowering it to do this trick, and jacking it up again.

I have found that cleaning the hub with a wire brush and applying some anti-seize prevents the problem in the first place.

[cn90]

A piece of 2x4 wood wedging against the lower bolt of the shock and wheel came out nicely!


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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I have found that cleaning the hub with a wire brush and applying some anti-seize prevents the problem in the first place.

+1. Important as the steel-allum interface will galvanically corrode it makes the wheel tighter on the steel hub over time.


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