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  #11  
Old 06-12-2018, 11:15 PM
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Panic Stop, now no brakes and Puddle of fluid?

Same exact problem I'm fixing. It was only $37 for the parts to do both lines and $23 for the tool.



Made my right pipe today took about 40-50 minutes. It's a lot of bends.

There is a nice long straight section perfect to pull down and splice just use the right tool..



I was able to make a perfect flare on the existing steel line with the flare tool I bought via Amazon.

Put in a union and replace from the factory union back to where the original line is not too rusty.

If you wanted to replace the whole pipe I could maybe fabricate a second set for a substantial discount from the $150 from Amazon.

There is a nice long section that could be curved to fit in a box for shipping.



That's my flare vs factory cross section.

I just realized: the $150 parts from Amazon are not pre-bent they just have the ends on.

If you are handy which I vote yes I recommend getting the tool from Amazon, watch my video to learn how to fix the tool to work properly then you can replace the front portion of the pipes without removing the rear wheel well and pulling out the entire line!

It's about 3/10 difficulty up to the wheel well but it's at least 8.5/10 to disconnect the right pipe from the union that is above the rear axle (it's impossible to fit two hands at the same time to disconnect the union!)

I got one wrench in then left it and put a second wrench on and held with the one hand that fit, then I used a mini pry bar to push the two wrenches. I'm planning to use crow foot sockets to reattach it was a b*t*h.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-12-2018 at 11:23 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2018, 11:31 PM
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Why does it fail right there? It appears that because of the bend the rust prevention coating is compromised at the factory. It just takes time and simple humidity in the air is enough for rust to form and work under the coating and grow.

Every E53 I guarantee has this problem. A simple prevention would be too scrub with steel brush and hit with some naval jelly then Rust-Oleum paint. If done closer to 100,000 miles 160,000 km, you will prevent the failure. That would be a good time to repair the siphon jet pump o-ring.

I will be checking my wife's e53 asap. I'm going to just drill a 2-3" observation hole to get into that space without removing the whole panel. I should be able to prevent hers from failing like mine did.

If hers is "made of rust" as mine was I'll splice in a piece like mentioned above it will save about 4% hours not replacing the whole pipe.

update: my amazon review is live. It includes a 12 minute video showing exactly how to fix the defective tool and properly make a perfect iso bubble flare every time.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-13-2018 at 01:57 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2018, 07:04 AM
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Andrewwynn - Just want to say Great Job!!!

I just watched the video on the Amazon review, and it was very nicely done. I also loved the photos with descriptions. You really described things nicely.

Thanks again.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:14 AM
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Any special Bleeding procedure once repaired? Master never went dry, hoping that it is a simple bleed of both rear calipers?


Where is everyone sourcing the brake line material (anyone know the size off hand), just local auto parts store? SAE or Metric Flaring tool?
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Last edited by Best4x4xFAR; 06-13-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR View Post
Any special Bleeding procedure once repaired? Master never went dry, hoping that it is a simple bleed of both rear calipers?


Where is everyone sourcing the brake line material (anyone know the size off hand), just local auto parts store? SAE or Metric Flaring tool?
As long as fluid level was kept up, it should be a simple brake bleeding procedure of passenger's rear (furthest away from master cylinder) then driver's rear.

As far as pipe goes, any auto parts store should have sections of line usually with ends already fitted.
If you car reuse the connection near the front end that would bee most ideal as one of the lines coming from the ABS pump is a bigger size and gets reduced asst that union. All the other lines are size M10.
If that's possible then you would just need to make a connection somewhere along the long straight section. Metric fittings use a bubble flare, so be sure to get a tool that does those and not double flares (SAE).

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  #16  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:53 AM
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Andrewwyn, thanks for the video update and the fix. I will be checking the brake lines on my 2001 X5 this weekend.
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  #17  
Old 06-13-2018, 12:33 PM
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Whatever you do Don't use COMPRESSION fittings for the repair.
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2018, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgrice View Post
Andrewwynn - Just want to say Great Job!!!

I just watched the video on the Amazon review, and it was very nicely done. I also loved the photos with descriptions. You really described things nicely.

Thanks again.
+1 Andrewwynn
I think that thoroughly explains why I had such a hard time making my flares.
Definitely will be modifying my tool as well.
Thanks.

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  #19  
Old 06-13-2018, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Whatever you do Don't use COMPRESSION fittings for the repair.

What he said! Also do not try to use a double flare vs iso bubble flare they are not remotely the same or interchangeable.

Compression fitting is for 30-100psi. I don't know what the psi for brakes but it's a lot higher!
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2018, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR View Post
Any special Bleeding procedure once repaired? Master never went dry, hoping that it is a simple bleed of both rear calipers?


Where is everyone sourcing the brake line material (anyone know the size off hand), just local auto parts store? SAE or Metric Flaring tool?


I think if you managed to not get any air back though the line you can use a simple bleeding procedure: I would use a pressurised system that pumps fresh fluid on demand from a pressurised tank into the reservoir. If air got into the abs block you need a high level tool to activate the block to push it out.

You should be able with a friend bleed the brakes with the pump pump pump hold on the brake pedal but only if you managed to avoid getting air into the system.

Pipe is 3/16 I bought 25' which is more than needed for replacing both rear lines but of you just repair the line likely could buy less than 10'. NiCopp is a brand of nickel copper line.

The fittings are 10x1 mm and 12mm (can't remember if 1mm pitch).

Iso bubble flare.

http://a.co/8K7gakD that's the exact tool I bought and re-worked the horrible engineering of the tool to basically be perfect.
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