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  #31  
Old 06-15-2018, 09:49 PM
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Line 3 'In' is also 12mm. I'm sure it's to keep left v right from crossing. You could replace the end of 1 to convert all to 10mm. The use of 12mm makes that pipe literally 3x the price pre-fab.

The fittings I removed could have been reused they were fine.

Check out my video and photos from the Amazon page for the iso flare tool.
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  #32  
Old 06-15-2018, 10:08 PM
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If I'm not mistaken line #3 is the same diameter as the other small lines. It's just the connector on the end that connects to line #1 that is bigger since line #1 is a M12.

I don't remember using different size lines when I spliced in behind those connections #2 and #5

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  #33  
Old 06-15-2018, 10:52 PM
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Panic Stop, now no brakes and Puddle of fluid?

Yes just the fitting is different. If I need to fix my wife's there is a very good chance the 12mm Union is getting changed to 10. BOTH fittings on #1 are 12mm but just the "goes in" fitting on #3 is 12mm.
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  #34  
Old 06-15-2018, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDude11 View Post
Yes line #1 is a M12 and all the other lines are M10.
If the auto shop doesn't have metric unions could try a local hardware store. I think I got mine at Ace Hardware.
Otherwise you could get them online as it sounds like you'll have to get the bubble flare tool online as well. Attachment 73772

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So the union (part # 2) is M12 on the front side and M10 on the rear side of the Union?

So as long as I reuse that fitting, I shouldn't need anything special?

My thought process was disconnect Line 3 from the backside of Union (2, then cut Line 3 somewhere along the straight section.

Then disconnect Line 6 from the backside of union (5) and again cut Line 5 along the straight section..

I was assuming I would reuse the Unions (2 & 5) - Bad assumption?
And then I would need only an M10 fitting on the front and back of the 'intermediate' lines I am creating..

Flare the cut ends of the lines and join with an M10 union..

Assuming i can find everything, this sound feasible?

Car has been down almost a week now, and my wife is not happy..
Have to try to get this down this weekend if at all possible..
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  #35  
Old 06-16-2018, 10:28 AM
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Your plan will work with one caveat.
The #2 union is just a normal M12 union.
It's the connection on line #3 (red arrow) that is the special piece that upscales the line to the larger line in front of it.

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You could cut this off the old line and move it to your new line.
Or you could cut line #3 behind that connection and splice in there you would just need another union to do so.

Either way I would recommend that when you cut the lines at the back along the straight section that you off set the cuts. That way it will be easier to make your bubble flares and afterwards there will be less of a chance of them touching since the connections are not side by side.
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  #36  
Old 06-16-2018, 12:54 PM
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Okay, so if I reuse the fitting from the old line, it should work then I guess..


Is there a functional difference between the bubble flare and the double flare? Or just a European vs American way of doing the same thing?

Since I have to cut the lines anyway, thinking where I make the 'splice' I could just do a set of double flare there at that union, since the tool and parts are readily available, and the 3/16 lines I bought already have a bubble flare on them for the forward connection..
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  #37  
Old 06-16-2018, 01:07 PM
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No it is functional difference and they are not interchangeable.
They are 2 different types of connections.
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  #38  
Old 06-16-2018, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR View Post
Okay, so if I reuse the fitting from the old line, it should work then I guess..


Is there a functional difference between the bubble flare and the double flare? Or just a European vs American way of doing the same thing?

Since I have to cut the lines anyway, thinking where I make the 'splice' I could just do a set of double flare there at that union, since the tool and parts are readily available, and the 3/16 lines I bought already have a bubble flare on them for the forward connection..
Both fittings are designed to connect brake lines to other fittings, calipers, etc, but you can not use a bubble fitting and use a double flare tool to flare the brake line, nor can you use a flare fitting and use a bubble tool for the brake line. The fittings are different.
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  #39  
Old 06-16-2018, 04:52 PM
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Panic Stop, now no brakes and Puddle of fluid?

You could use a double flare to make a union in the straight section to splice onto a section of pipe you bought locally to avoid needing to source bubble flare tool especially if you have pipe with a bubble flare on one side.



The green are all bubble flares. Since you can buy sections of pipe with bubble flare you could buy a single piece with two ends long enough to replace the yellow sections. Reuse the 12mm from the 1-3 joint (and the other as well if needed) then cut the lines and splice with an sae union and double flare. (Blue on diagram) That is a single day from local parts solution.

Make sure the union is double flare and you might want to take a permanent marker and make a note to the next mechanic that is a double flare union.
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  #40  
Old 06-16-2018, 05:31 PM
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I just checked the brake lines showing heavy rust. Pipes 3 and 6 and unions 2 and 5 have rust. I will be replacing everything including unions all the way back.


What did you use to make the bends on the pipes?


Here are the pix.
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Last edited by chedeng; 06-16-2018 at 05:47 PM.
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