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  #1  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:01 PM
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Crank pulley / harmonic balancer / Jesus bolt removal

I've got my engine half torn apart to do the head gasket, and figure I'll replace the chain guides "while I'm in there." That requires removal of the timing cover, which requires removal of the crank pulley / harmonic balancer, which requires ... removal of the Jesus bolt.

M54B30 2001 E53 automatic transmission, head is off

Buying the special $150 tool to hold the pulley is just not going to happen.

Does anyone have first hand experience with this situation?

Here's my current plan, and understanding:
22mm bolt, right hand threaded, takes about 300+ Nm (I'll look it up when reinstalling). I'm expecting it may need far more than 300 Nm to loosen it.

I'll mark the bolt in case I need to know what angle to retorque it to (and other torque based methods won't work).

put the flywheel locking pin in. I already did this as part of the head removal, so that will be easy. My understanding is that BMW disavows use of that pin for crank bolt removal, but that it is commonly done and never causes a problem.

I'll hit the bolt with liquid wrench, maybe even some heat if needed. I'll be replacing the front seal as long as I can get the bolt off, but just in case I can't ...

Safety glasses on

first attempt will be with 1/2" air impact gun. The radiator is already out, but it looks like I will need to move the AC condenser out of the way a little for front clearance.

When that fails, I'll move on to a cheater bar - to a 3/4" breaker bar - to a 3/4"-1/2" drive adapter - to the 22mm impact socket.

Or if it fits well, I may try my torque multiplier tool.

Any advice, warnings, or bets?
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:32 PM
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There are a couple write ups on e46fanatics. One in particular--with pictures--I believe needed something like a 6 foot breaker on it and some sort of crank bolt removal tool made of 2x4s...but he had the whole motor out for pictorial reference.



You will probably want a new balancer, and you need a new bolt.


I wish I had the time to do this, but that's life. Just post some pictures.
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Old 07-26-2018, 09:35 PM
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Clearly you have though way too much about this one bolt!

But I can understand why - a bolt like this one can bring the entire project to a halt.

Have you thought about cooling the bolt, rather than heating it? Cooling it will shrink it (making it looser) while heating it will expand it (making it tighter).



Might be worth a shot. Don't hit it while it's cold though, as it will be more brittle too....
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Old 07-26-2018, 09:44 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful replies. Hopefully others will benefit from this too.

You're right, I might have overthought it. But maybe that helped me avoid a mistake. Bringing my project to a halt would not be so bad (I'd just leave the chain guides as is). But a failure of something to create a whole new project (like needing to remove the block) would be a real problem.

I took more time to write it up than to actually do it.

DONE just now.

It looked like a little too much work to move things to make the impact gun fit, so I skipped that. And rather than doing step 2 with the cheater bar, I jumped ahead to step 3 with my torque multiplier and it came off pretty easily.

I sprayed some WD-40 on it, which probably made all the difference (just kidding). And I did wear my faceshield while hiding behind the front bumper as much as I could. But it actually came off pretty smoothly. Probably after no more than 90 degrees of rotation, it just spun off with my fingertips. I don't know if it's the CA climate, but just about everything on this car has been like this, even now at 186k miles.

And the torque value is 410 Nm. The Bentley basically tells you that, and to buy two BMW special tools, and that is about it. EDIT - it also tells you to not use the locking pin.

Photos taken - will post later. Basically just shows the tools I used, both with them set up as I started taking it off, and then laid out afterwards where they're easier to see.

Nice thing about this torque multiplier I have is that I'll be able to torque it back carefully even though my biggest torque wrench does not go to 410 Nm.
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Last edited by oldskewel; 07-27-2018 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:45 PM
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Very important: remove locking pin before Jesus bolt removal (I had to rebuild mine after making that mistake).

You can build a perfect holding tool from some angle or box material.



$7 in angle iron and half an hour to fabricate.

For removal I rested the tool against the inside of the fender. I put a stack of shims in the "gutter" where the hood nestles.

For installing I used a scale and some math.



I had something like 28" handles, used my scale and my 5:1 pulley system to precisely measure I think I used 350 ft·lb. It's technically supposed to be yield torqued xx ft·lb plus xx degrees.

I searched long and far for a reasonable ft·lb value and based on the torque specs for that size of bolt and some cars that were spec'd by torque 350 was a very good value.

I could feel the bolt starting to yield right around 340-360 and I felt very confident in a good solution.


If you had a spare balancer it would be very easy to make a holding tool by cutting holes or notches and use a bar to reach over to the frame or engine. (BMW tool rests on the engine with a block of wood to protect it)
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:52 PM
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So all the action happened while I was typing. Look at my jig for tightening. Sounds a bit like the force multiplier.

It took an estimated 600 ft·lb to remove the first one I did but the second two I had the radiator out and my high torque Milwaukeee M18 knocked them right out. 1100 ft·lb

The holding tool I designed initially just was 1.5" angle and it got mangled because of the 4' cheater bar and aforementioned 600 ft·lb


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Old 07-27-2018, 01:27 AM
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Wow, that is pretty involved. But I know how it is. It reminds me of the sort of stuff I did to remove the crank pulley bolt on my old Honda Odyssey for a timing belt job. I did not have such the array of tools I have now, and used ropes, strut compressors, etc., and 6 hours later it was off. And the BMW crank bolts have much higher torque values and notoriety.

On the locking pin (supposedly only for alignment, but ...) I found the following which was pretty convincing, from a guy who has written a lot of cool stuff on these M54 engines:
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=953907

That pin has a pretty good radius arm - like about 10 cm, which I think helps it to work. He detected some slight deformation after doing 6 loosen-tighten cycles.

So I went ahead and used the locking pin. I just need it to last long enough to get the bolt reinstalled later, and it's good enough for me.
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:47 AM
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Pics!

First 3 are on the car, once the bolt had just started to move (it had only moved a couple of degrees at that point, but I knew it was working).

My torque multiplier is the fat thing in the middle. Driven on the AC condenser side by a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar helped with a 1-1/4" x 18" long galvanized pipe cheater bar (not going to break anything, but makes up for some lack of strength on my part).

The torque multiplier has gears in it which make another bar turn the opposite way - and that needs to be supported by something. That bar is the short square black bar pointing to the right. It is supported by a jack stand. The car is not jacked at all - just sitting on its tires in my driveway. I put a couple of 2x4's under the jack stand to make it so it holds the square bar level = very stable and optimal torque.

So to be clear for future readers, the bolt is regular right hand threaded. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. When I loosen it, I push the breaker bar counter clockwise. The torque multiplier's internal gears push that black square bar clockwise, where it is supported by the jack stand. Then the torqu multiplier's internal gears push back against that square bar to turn its output 3/4" square drive counterclockwise to loosen the bolt.

The torque multiplier output is 3/4" square drive, so I step that down to 1/2" with an adapter, and then to my Craftsman 1/2" drive 22mm 6-point impact socket, on the crank pulley bolt.

Since the breaker bar is a little tough to deal with, I actually started things off with a Craftsman flex-head 1/2" ratchet until I had everything lined up right, with the right number of clicks, etc. Then I swapped in the breaker bar and put some real force into it.

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Last 3 pics are of the tools I used, actually all sitting on top of the case for the timing tools I bought on eBay, needed for the rest of the work I'm doing on this engine. The locking pin comes in that kit.

Face shield, just in case. torque multiplier, socket, removed bolt and washer, 18" x 1-1/4" galvanized pipe cheater bar, Craftsman USA 1/2" breaker bar, Crafstman China 1/2" flex head ratchet. The little mark on the bolt was made at 12 o'clock using my little battery powered Dremel tool cutoff tool.

I think the torque multiplier has a 4x gear reduction, but due to losses it claims a 3.3x torque multiplication. So when I need to reinstall the bolt I will set my torque wrench to 410 Nm / 3.3 = 124 Nm, which both me and the torque wrench will be able to handle easily.

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Old 07-27-2018, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Very important: remove locking pin before Jesus bolt removal (I had to rebuild mine after making that mistake).
...
Curious - can you expand on that? What exactly failed and what did you need to do to recover from it?
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:29 AM
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Crank pulley / harmonic balancer / Jesus bolt removal



Here's a pic of my holder in place



Here's a pic of the badly deformed hole in the flywheel after the first attempt at using the pin to hold the crank to remove the bolt.

The worse problem was as the holding pin bent far enough to allow the flywheel to turn and pull out, it would no longer come back out of the hole.

I had to take the roll pin handle out find a bigger gap in the spokes of the flywheel and pound the pin into the bell housing!

I tried to use a more substantial piece of metal through the bell housing through meatier parts of the spokes: I bent a small prybar attempting to remove the Jesus H bolt.

The math above used 410 N · m of torque and I estimated closer to 650 to remove the bolt on the M62 I worked on.

I would certainly not ever attempt that again.

If the holes were close so it was a shear situation then it could hold no problem. The problem is the pin extends over an inch out to the flywheel.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-28-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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