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  #71  
Old 01-29-2021, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Thanks, and I forgot how simple it was to adjust the steel ball for the steel zip tie. And of course I know from experience that the ball will disappear into some crack in the floor if you bend the little finger too far.

The metal zip tie is magically the perfect size and shape to cure this break and since it's steel not pot metal this fix is superior to replacing the part with one made with the same defect as original.
hahaha you got me hooked now, i whacked my OEM original DHC that lasted hmm 10 years into dishwasher, they came out newish looking, now gotta find the steel zip ties, not sure your everyday diy shop has em here in Cyprus AND we are in lockdown now limited stores open, gotta couple of small stainless steel worm screw type clamps but am sure the screw part with 'hit' somewhere and i wont be able to get it in a position to be out of the way so to speak...
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  #72  
Old 01-29-2021, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Thanks, and I forgot how simple it was to adjust the steel ball for the steel zip tie. And of course I know from experience that the ball will disappear into some crack in the floor if you bend the little finger too far.

The metal zip tie is magically the perfect size and shape to cure this break and since it's steel not pot metal this fix is superior to replacing the part with one made with the same defect as original.

It took many attempts to finally figure out the best way to hold with the vice grip and that's just at important; drops the difficulty from 7-8 to 3-4.

–awr–
sorry to nag, 4.6mm width is ok I guess, had to go to ebay and wait for shipping from china, you also gave me another idea regarding the window winder plastic clips that run up and down the metal 'paths' and are prone to breaking, they bind so you need to lubricate the metal parts, gonna try and stick a little tube down into the windows whilst they are rolled up and spray maybe with a teflon or other type spray see if i can 'hit' those area and if my windows starts to move more freely and fast.....dont wanna take door panel off to lube
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  #73  
Old 01-29-2021, 09:04 AM
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AWR-Fix: Door Handle Carrier Permanent Fix*

I spray silicone spray down the edge of the open window. I've also used Teflon and the improvement is immediate. Use the long stick.

If you can't find steel zip tie you can go "OG" with steel wire. I'm pretty sure my original post is on xo with the steel wire method I did first. That's just as strong it's just a lot harder to implement.

The clips don't break from lack of lubrication at the clip they break nexuses of too much friction on the glass through the felt guides at front and back. I've measured a 60% increase in speed of the window with one application.

While waiting for parts you can use the key to roll down a window to reach inside to open. I had to do that for over a month in the past.
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  #74  
Old 01-29-2021, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I spray silicone spray down the edge of the open window. I've also used Teflon and the improvement is immediate. Use the long stick.

If you can't find steel zip tie you can go "OG" with steel wire. I'm pretty sure my original post is on xo with the steel wire method I did first. That's just as strong it's just a lot harder to implement.

The clips don't break from lack of lubrication at the clip they break nexuses of too much friction on the glass through the felt guides at front and back. I've measured a 60% increase in speed of the window with one application.

While waiting for parts you can use the key to roll down a window to reach inside to open. I had to do that for over a month in the past.
good man,yes will do it ptfe spray for bikes will do, so 4.6mm wide ties ok i guess cos am gonna try to fix the old ones....pictures you have are very clear
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  #75  
Old 01-29-2021, 01:41 PM
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I might have had 6mm tie but the thinner one should work just the same. Note how I bend the end over the grip end so it can't come out and also key is to put a shim under to make it tight. When done right it's tight enough there is no movement in the hinge
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  #76  
Old 06-24-2021, 03:42 PM
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First a big shout-out to Andrew for such a great DIY. I thought I'd show my experience to add to the knowledge base.

First, on the ziptie... my carrier was cracked, but the casting wasn't missing any of the part holding the hinge pin, so I put the clasp of the tie on the other side where there was more room. I then used a couple old decking screws to thread under the tie to shim it. This worked nicely, as I was able to screw the screws into place and really tighten up the tie. You have to screw the screws in from opposite directions so they can mesh properly.

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Second, on the cable... there IS a way to adjust the cable a little. The end with the ball socket has a black cap holding the socket in place. Remove that and you can see that the cable barrel and socket appear to be threaded together. They actually aren't, but rather just have concentric grooves that mesh. You can carefully pop the socket off pushing the barrel out sideways through the gap and reposition it deeper over the barrel. I didn't take a "before" picture, but on mine, the barrel was about flush with the end of the socket and now it is maybe 6-8 mm lower in the socket.

It's not a lot of adjustment, but it did help mine release the door with slightly less lift than before.

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Hope this helps someone else.

AM.
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  #77  
Old 06-24-2021, 10:23 PM
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To effect a shorter cable, you can build up some length on the outer cable with JB Weld.

Nice job on the paired screws


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