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#71
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#72
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
#73
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AWR-Fix: Door Handle Carrier Permanent Fix*
I spray silicone spray down the edge of the open window. I've also used Teflon and the improvement is immediate. Use the long stick.
If you can't find steel zip tie you can go "OG" with steel wire. I'm pretty sure my original post is on xo with the steel wire method I did first. That's just as strong it's just a lot harder to implement. The clips don't break from lack of lubrication at the clip they break because of too much friction on the glass through the felt guides at front and back. I've measured a 60% increase in speed of the window with one application. While waiting for parts you can use the key to roll down a window to reach inside to open. I had to do that for over a month in the past.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 11-16-2021 at 11:18 AM. |
#74
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
#75
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I might have had 6mm tie but the thinner one should work just the same. Note how I bend the end over the grip end so it can't come out and also key is to put a shim under to make it tight. When done right it's tight enough there is no movement in the hinge
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#76
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First a big shout-out to Andrew for such a great DIY. I thought I'd show my experience to add to the knowledge base.
First, on the ziptie... my carrier was cracked, but the casting wasn't missing any of the part holding the hinge pin, so I put the clasp of the tie on the other side where there was more room. I then used a couple old decking screws to thread under the tie to shim it. This worked nicely, as I was able to screw the screws into place and really tighten up the tie. You have to screw the screws in from opposite directions so they can mesh properly. Second, on the cable... there IS a way to adjust the cable a little. The end with the ball socket has a black cap holding the socket in place. Remove that and you can see that the cable barrel and socket appear to be threaded together. They actually aren't, but rather just have concentric grooves that mesh. You can carefully pop the socket off pushing the barrel out sideways through the gap and reposition it deeper over the barrel. I didn't take a "before" picture, but on mine, the barrel was about flush with the end of the socket and now it is maybe 6-8 mm lower in the socket. It's not a lot of adjustment, but it did help mine release the door with slightly less lift than before. Hope this helps someone else. AM.
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E70 2010 3.0 M57 AT Titanium Silver with Black Leather E53 2004 3.0 M54 AT Toledo Blue with Gray Leather E83 2008 3.0 N52 AT Silver Gray Metallic with Black Vinyl E46 1999 2.8 M52TU 5MT Black with Tan Leather 250K+ miles (Sold, but not forgotten) |
#77
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To effect a shorter cable, you can build up some length on the outer cable with JB Weld.
Nice job on the paired screws Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#78
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My passenger front door won't open from the outside handle. I tried 2 different spare carriers I had to no avail. Maybe they were meant for a different door? I understand none of the 4 carriers are interchangeable. I took it apart and I tested outside of the car. I can see that when the door carrier is moved as far as possible, it doesn't move the mechanism on the latch far enough to disengage the lock. If only I could make this cable a bit shorter |
#79
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AWR-Fix: Door Handle Carrier Permanent Fix*
The left DHC back and front are the same other than the cable. Same for right.
The length is a lot different like 2" different you can't really connect the cable from the wrong door. If the DHC cable is basically the right length but won't pull the lever on the DLA far enough to open (but you can manually lift the lever to open the latch), you may have suffered the damage I described that happened to me. If the outer shield of the cable rusts it can collapse and the inner cable will not pull as far and eventually you can't open the door. For a quick fix and since you can't buy just the cable, you can use JB Weld to build up some length to the outer shield under the end cap just be careful not to glue to the center cable (I would maybe put some tape around the cable sticky side out. When using a knock off carrier I will swap OEM cable which is much better made than third party cables as long as it's not rusty. If the cable is too short vs. too long, it will not release the DLA lever far enough and you won't be able to open the door from inside or outside so always test inside and outside latches before closing the door and reassembling. There are two notches at the end of the cable, it's nearly impossible to clip into the wrong one, but I think that would cause the problem you describe also. Another possibility is if the teeth are meshed incorrectly on the lift arm. Look at the photos from my iCloud album.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 11-16-2021 at 11:33 AM. |
#80
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There doesn't seem to be any damage on the cable
I tried 3 different carriers. Weird. They're all OEM, used. Not cheap brands. I did not see any rust. I'm not sure I understand about JB Wield and how and where exactly to glue and how it will help. I used Attacking Mid advice to tighten the cable a little bit. As I final solution, I used the wrong notch to make it even tighter. Now the handle works and it pulls enough to unlock. I used a vise to force it in. The wrong notch is a lot bigger and won't allow the clip into, so with vise it worked and now the door handle is working |
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