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  #21  
Old 11-18-2018, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Of course... all brands are available, if you want to pay for the international freight and the import duties!!
I was referring to an online supplier here in Australia where most of what i wanted is already in stock here in Oz.... No import duties or international freight....
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2018, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVR View Post
I was referring to an online supplier here in Australia where most of what i wanted is already in stock here in Oz.... No import duties or international freight....
Yep - understood that.

I should have said "NZ" rather than "South Pacific"...

Next time I'm over in Oz for work, I may have to go shopping...
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  #23  
Old 11-18-2018, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by trentcdrums View Post
Thanks.

Link to ball joints I bought.
Front Lower Ball Joint RF LF Left Right Driver Passenger Pair Set for 00-06 X5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y8TW7B..._HMp8BbJJP52RQ

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HOLY COW! and a 10 year warranty to boot! LOL! hopefully you don't have to take them up on that annually. glad they worked for you regardless of the price. nothing like a good set of tires and tight front end on an e53!
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21 -> 123k (8.25)
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SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21)
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2018, 01:53 PM
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OK so a tip for anyone doing this job. I took the rotor and caliper off and turned the backing plate 90 degrees and you have a straight shot at the ball joint, arm and mounting screws. Made this job as easy as 30 minutes or so per side. I guess I am lucky with no real rust, the ball joint came straight out with only a few taps on the arm. I even had to put the joint back in the hub to break the joint loose from the arm. I was anticipating a much more struggle but once you get the joint directly in front of you as opposed to working underneath, it really was straight forward and simple. Job complete.
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2018, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
OK so a tip for anyone doing this job. I took the rotor and caliper off and turned the backing plate 90 degrees and you have a straight shot at the ball joint, arm and mounting screws. Made this job as easy as 30 minutes or so per side. I guess I am lucky with no real rust, the ball joint came straight out with only a few taps on the arm. I even had to put the joint back in the hub to break the joint loose from the arm. I was anticipating a much more struggle but once you get the joint directly in front of you as opposed to working underneath, it really was straight forward and simple. Job complete.
This is great! Thanks for sharing and adding to the thread!

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  #26  
Old 12-10-2018, 04:34 AM
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Cool, I'm about to do them !!

Thanks !!
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2018, 09:34 AM
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FYI for anyone doing this job and battling the tension strut removal, one of the free tools at autozone (SKU is 27016) will do the job perfectly. It's a little tricky to get it in position but works very nicely even without removing anything else.

Here's the link. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/555623_0_0

and a youtube video (short) I did years ago. I used this same tool a few weeks ago and this time I just cranked it good and snug and left it for 20 seconds, cranked it a little more. Once it was good and tight, eventually it gave way on both sides without having to continue torquing the ever-living hell out of it like in that youtube vid.
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21 -> 123k (8.25)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21)
SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red
SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2018, 10:17 AM
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Move the backing plate out of the way and give the arm a sharp whack with a stout hammer and it pops right off the ball joint. Notice the mark on the arm where I hit it. No more than 2 strikes with the hammer and it comes right off.

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  #29  
Old 12-10-2018, 11:19 AM
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How hard is it to put back the new one?
Do you use just the bolts to press it in?
I know that in my volvo a special tool was needed. (replaced by a piece of tube)
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  #30  
Old 12-10-2018, 11:26 AM
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they are not meant to present, they are actually supposed to slide right in. No issues at all. The toughest part is aligning the inner bolt and successfully threading it in. It's not hard it just takes a minute to make sure that you are angled correctly.
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Originally Posted by titodj View Post
How hard is it to put back the new one?
Do you use just the bolts to press it in?
I know that in my volvo a special tool was needed. (replaced by a piece of tube)
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