DIY: Actual Ball Joint Removal

trentcdrums · #1 11-13-2018, 12:43 AM

The parts no other videos will show. Enjoy.. Feel free to sticky.

https://youtu.be/auHtY-xURvA

Trent

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jac · #2 11-14-2018, 02:02 AM

Thanks for taking the time to video it and show all that work Trent!

I am due for doing this task as well. I do have a ball joint separator fork tool that I bought a while ago (ended up not using it but kept it), but after seeing your video I think I am going to rent the ball joint separator from the autoparts store to have that available during the repair as well... :-)

Ohsoslow · #3 11-14-2018, 04:02 AM

That seems very full on.. maybe I got lucky, I just undid the two bolts, then put the arm back on, and tapped the arm a couple of times with hammer, and ball joint slid out.. not sure if that’s good or bad now though!

stiubhartach · #4 11-15-2018, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jac

Thanks for taking the time to video it and show all that work Trent!

I am due for doing this task as well. I do have a ball joint separator fork tool that I bought a while ago (ended up not using it but kept it), but after seeing your video I think I am going to rent the ball joint separator from the autoparts store to have that available during the repair as well... :-)

I had trouble getting mine out. The auto part store rental separator wasn’t big enough for me. Neither were the Harbor Freight models. Finally bought a knock off of this one on eBay. It was out in minutes.

https://mueller-kueps.com/product-ca...separator-kit/
https://www.samstagsales.com/bmw/bmw491933set.jpg

Russianblue · #5 11-15-2018, 01:22 PM

I have NO idea how I've been so lucky on my two Xers but on my 2003, at 120k miles the old joints nearly twisted out by hand. I had all manner of torches and toxic elixirs and large heavy bars and hammers ready to assist me in the process and simply didn't need them. On my current 2005 Xer w 72k (about one week before Trent's video here mind you) I changed these and pretty much had the same experience but i did use a pickle fork. Took two whacks. that was it. i did bang the knuckle with a BFH before getting after it but they seemed to come our super easy. I guess I been livin' right!! I remember trying somethign similar on an old e23 years ago and finally just taking it to a shop. it was NOT happening!

wpoll · #6 11-15-2018, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohsoslow

That seems very full on.. maybe I got lucky, I just undid the two bolts, then put the arm back on, and tapped the arm a couple of times with hammer, and ball joint slid out.. not sure if that’s good or bad now though!

It's a good thing good, Ohsoslow.

Seems like the folk who drive in winter road conditions (snow, ice... salt...) have a lot more challenges working on suspension than those of us living in warmer, drier climates.

What new BJs did you use - Meyle HD or something else?

Russianblue · #7 11-15-2018, 03:47 PM

well that would explain a lot. Neither of my X's has been north of the Mason Dixon line!

I used Meyle HD for the first replacement but have since gone to ALL Lemforder (sic) for suspension parts. They Meyle HD parts I've used are pretty decent and I don't have an issue with trying different stuff, but to me, Lemforder just seems to last a little longer. Now, this is my N=1 opinion. Could have been installer error or any number of things, but on the older Xer, in 2012 at 120k miles I installed all Meyle HD up front. Tension Struts, Ctrl Arms, Ball Joints and Sway links. Of those, after about 50k miles, both ctrl arms failed (lots of squeaking at the knuckle attachment (bushings not torn) and one sway link. Still have a periodic clunk in the front right when turning right onto a driveway bump and hitting the gas...but I suspect it is an issue with one of the Meyle ball joints. Doesn't affect performance to be honest, and neither did the control arms. Anyway, these days lemforder is cheaper in many cases and you can't go wrong with that brand.

wpoll · #8 11-15-2018, 04:02 PM

Down here (South Pacific) the only local options are usually genuine (ouch!), Meyle HD and no-name.

I know that genuine is usually Lemforder or Meyle but at double or triple the cost, no thanks.

That really only leaves Meyle HD...

Russianblue · #9 11-15-2018, 04:09 PM

Nothing wrong with Meyle HD if the only other choice is genuine. I'd rather do it twice than pay it thrice!

Ohsoslow · #10 11-15-2018, 04:55 PM

Yeah I went with Meyle, seemed like the best cheapest option. My bank account struggles with genuine prices unfortunately! And yeah I think the lack of rust must work in our favour wpoll! Mine still looks like new underneath.

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