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  #1  
Old 11-24-2018, 10:02 AM
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LED Bulbs for tails

turns aside, dumb ?

If Red LED is offered and my tails are not clear, but has red, I should BUY the white LED version right. Not the red ? Methinks the output will be better with the White LED underneath the red lense ?
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2018, 10:23 AM
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Not knowing if you are looking for turn signal, reverse or running lights - all factory bulbs (I'll come to the exception) are white, so buy white. IF you have clear leds turn signals, then you would have orange bulbs - in which case THESE should naturally be replaced with orange LED turn signal bulbs.

I (myself) didn't go that route - I bought a pair of Spyder LED tail lights & left the standard bulbs in place for turn signals and reverse lights.
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Last edited by Gregory891; 11-24-2018 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:28 AM
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No, you want red LED for brake lights regardless of the lens color.

The wavelengths are different from halogen and leds and if you put a white led under red lens it will shine through white/pinkish.


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Old 11-24-2018, 10:39 AM
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Thx MR. Doe. Can't believe I just spent almost 2 hundo + on bulbs....

Eh, LED-aftermarket tails just don't look good IMO

Last edited by jsoto; 11-24-2018 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 03:17 PM
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Just curious - why the change to LED lamps?

They won't look any different, you need to modify the car's programming to get them to work or add components (resistors and/or capacitors) to fool the lamp monitoring and if you add resistors, the whole shebang uses as much power as incandescent lamps.

The LEDs lamps may also not work correctly with the force dependant braking feature.

The only positive I can see is the LEDs should last longer but given the lifespan of incandecsnt lamps (many years) this doesn't seem much of a driver.

I'm not knocking your decision - I happen to think LED is a much better lighting source than a glowing wire - but only in an application designed to use LED, or at least not in an application with so much reliance on the characteristics of a glowing wire.

I'll be keen to hear how you get on with this mod.
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Old 11-24-2018, 04:28 PM
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Simply OCD

Going through round 2 of a major front headlight mod. In doing the front, noticed the sidemakers were cloudy so new sidemarkers. From there , a slippery slope + OCD doesn't help. So I'm off to tweak the rears.

Regarding adatptive brake : Not that I have noticed it. I did buy one set of "1156 reds and 1157 reds" for the respective position on the tail. Eh, we'll see how it looks as such

I know it will be questionable how much or less the backup lights will be compared to stock, but I'm well aware that the halogens have more *throw*

There is a certain balance....I've seen LEDS where they were just overly blinding. Eh, won't know until the bulbs are in I suppose

Last edited by jsoto; 11-24-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
Simply OCD
...
I hear ya...
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Old 11-24-2018, 06:16 PM
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I am having reservations putting a LED in the rear fog position. Ah, decisions, decisions.
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:41 PM
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I may be in the wrong here with some incorrect knowledge... but I tried to put LED Bulbs with matching compatibility part numbers in my rear lights in OEM Tail Lights a few months ago.

Thinking it would solve the melting problem that seems to happen if any moisture gets around the housing... and they just flickered. The computer would chime like crazy every time that I started the car or turned it off telling me to check the bulbs.

I was told they needed a constant power source or something of that nature. I only discovered this after spending almost 300$ to replace every exterior light on the car with LED bulbs. I wasn't about to spend about 400$ on the extra kits... after spending 200$ on a set of replacement OEM Tail Lights because the first set was melted to hell and back.
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:58 PM
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It's not moisture that causes the melting issues in the tails - it's the high-resistance bulb connection and poor conductivity of the steel assembly. The high-resistance connection gets hot and melts the plastic, decreasing the connection tension, which causes the connection to get worse...

The LED flickering is caused by two things - the cold monitoring of the lamps and on the later LCI cars, the PWM power being used to run the lamps.

The dash warnings are due to the reduced lamp load, causing the LKM to determine the lamp is blown/missing.

And yes, all of these issues can be addressed, if you really want to throw more stuff at it.
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