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  #11  
Old 12-18-2018, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
There's your problem, you went to O'Reilley and bought a reman BOSCH and not a genuine Siemens.
^ This. Get a Siemens/VDO MAF from FCP Euro. Too many stories about the cheap MAF sensors causing all kinds of issues.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-13627567451
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
10 g/s is way too much at idle. It should be around 3-4. Turn off all electric devices (AC, radio, lights) and check it again. You could try unplugging the MAF and it will default to a throttle position map. This will light up your dash like a Christmas tree but if it runs, it will let you know if your MAF is at fault.
If I unplug the MAF I can hold it at 3/4+ RPM smoothly, but as soon as I let off the gas RPM's drop and it immediately dies.

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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Since the misfire code is still in the same cylinder after the swap, the next thing to do will be to look at the plug and do a compression test. What type of scanner are you using? Are you sure the unit for the MAF is set for G/S and not lb/M?
Yes I'm going to do a compression test this week, hopefully tonight. I'm using OBD Fusion and it says g/s. When I use it on my 330i I'm getting 3 or 4 on idle, but on the X5 its 10. Sounds like I need to get the Siemens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
^ This. Get a Siemens/VDO MAF from FCP Euro. Too many stories about the cheap MAF sensors causing all kinds of issues.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-13627567451
Yeah this makes sense, I was just excited that I found the cause and didn't want to wait for FCP to ship me a new one. I will get one on order, but I have a feeling it's not the only thing wrong. I should still be able to idle with it unplugged right? I can get rev my engine high with it unplugged, but as soon as I let off the gas it dies. I also need to figure out why it's flooding. Could bad gas still be in the system (assuming 1 year old gas is bad)? I pumped the old gas out from the two holes under the back seats where the fuel pump is, but I don't know how long the car would need to idle to burn out any fuel already in the engine and fuel lines.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2018, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
^ This. Get a Siemens/VDO MAF from FCP Euro. Too many stories about the cheap MAF sensors causing all kinds of issues.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-13627567451
Actually for my car these are my options: https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/X5...03&m=227&e=188

BOSCH or BREMI

BOSCH is good through right?
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2018, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahair121 View Post
Actually for my car these are my options: https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/X5...03&m=227&e=188

BOSCH or BREMI

BOSCH is good through right?

Sorry, I have a LCI facelift 2004 3L. Of those choices you listed, I would go with the Bosch not the Bremi especially for only a $15 difference.

Yes, I believe it should idle with MAF unplugged, I have seen guys running their E46's unplugged for weeks but again, I do not know the 2003 4.4 system to give you a solid answer. I would look towards an intake leak somewhere in the system causing the stalling but get the new MAF installed and go from there.
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2018, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Sorry, I have a LCI facelift 2004 3L. Of those choices you listed, I would go with the Bosch not the Bremi especially for only a $15 difference.

Yes, I believe it should idle with MAF unplugged, I have seen guys running their E46's unplugged for weeks but again, I do not know the 2003 4.4 system to give you a solid answer. I would look towards an intake leak somewhere in the system causing the stalling but get the new MAF installed and go from there.
E46 and an X5 with a 4.4 are two different animals. One is a V8, the other is an inline 6. A common intake leak on 4.4 engine is the CCV at the rear of the intake manifold.
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  #16  
Old 12-18-2018, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
E46 and an X5 with a 4.4 are two different animals. One is a V8, the other is an inline 6. A common intake leak on 4.4 engine is the CCV at the rear of the intake manifold.
Yes I've seen that in other posts. I'm going to look into that too after work today. I can see that going out after sitting for a long time. It was probably already on its way out before she parked it. I kind of wish it was a 3.0 because I know a lot more about that engine, but I'm excited for the new challenge.
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2018, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Since the misfire code is still in the same cylinder after the swap, the next thing to do will be to look at the plug and do a compression test. What type of scanner are you using? Are you sure the unit for the MAF is set for G/S and not lb/M?
So I rented a compression test kit from O'Reilly's. They warned me that it might not work because the last guy had problems. What I found was cylinder 1&3 showed no compression at all and the spark plugs were clean. 5&6 held 30 psi and the tip of the plugs were dark with wet fuel.

I need to try again with a reliable kit, but is this adding up to stuck valves or something else?
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  #18  
Old 12-19-2018, 02:40 AM
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Since you needed to rent a compression tester I'm going to assume that you never perform a compression test on any engines before. Check out YouTube on how to do a compression test. Remove all the spark plugs so that only the cylinder being tested will develop compression. The engine needs to be turning over quickly so make sure the battery is fully charged. Good luck.
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  #19  
Old 12-19-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Since you needed to rent a compression tester I'm going to assume that you never perform a compression test on any engines before. Check out YouTube on how to do a compression test. Remove all the spark plugs so that only the cylinder being tested will develop compression. The engine needs to be turning over quickly so make sure the battery is fully charged. Good luck.
I removed all the plugs and did the test again. Once again I still don't trust the testers accuracy + my inexperience, but the results are still telling right?
1-3 no compression
4 jumped to maybe 40
5 pumped up to 55 maybe
6 35-40
7 maybe 15.
8 the hose was too long in this test for me to get it to screw in.

I will try this test again with a proven tester and with a little more care, but obviously things are off. I have a video uploaded to show the results and how the engine idles. The first 10 seconds show the plugs (bank one clean, bank 2 every plug was dirty) the next 30 seconds show my test and the last little bit shows the engine at idle when I first picked it up. I've since had it higher like I explained in my original post. Anyway any pointers from here would be most welcome.

https://youtu.be/rF0yUCkaibs
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  #20  
Old 12-19-2018, 02:32 PM
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I would guess your compression gauge is not giving you correct readings. That engine would not start with those low numbers.
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