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  #71  
Old 11-27-2019, 12:27 AM
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Thank you
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  #72  
Old 11-29-2019, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by X5only View Post
Looks like the vendor has a presence on ebay with even lower price at $52 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercrazy-...kAAOSwed9dtebU
Thanks @X5only! I ordered the Supercrazy rear ball joint removal/installer kit you linked for me on Wednesday and it showed up today! Gotta love Amazon

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  #73  
Old 12-04-2019, 04:28 PM
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A large box from FCP Euro showed up today with lots of suspension bushings and bearings!
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  #74  
Old 12-04-2019, 04:31 PM
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A large box from FCP Euro showed up today with lots of suspension bushings and bearings!


Are you going to replace the rear upper arms? and or the front lower arm? They all have bushing / ball joints that go out. I just drove our X 1,300 miles after replacing everything and I swear it drives as good as the day it firts drove off the dealer lot


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  #75  
Old 12-04-2019, 04:42 PM
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Did the rear upper control arms and toe arms with adjustable Hard Race arms earlier this year. Also all front arms and ball joints were replaced at the same time. Only thing left up there is sway bar links and front wheel bearings.



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  #76  
Old 12-04-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Did the rear upper control arms and toe arms with adjustable Hard Race arms earlier this year. Also all front arms and ball joints were replaced at the same time. Only thing left up there is sway bar links and front wheel bearings.









Looks good. Can’t wait to hear how you like it after you complete the parts you just got!


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  #77  
Old 01-17-2020, 08:18 PM
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Started the work in the rear today. Not going to lie, this is a genuine PITA. No matter how much preparation and planning goes into a project, it never goes straight.

Got the bushings pressed into both lower control arms, replaced the sway bar end links, integral links, ball joints and got one side back together but still working on the left side.

I am struggling with my Fleabay ball joint tool, it's like the flat edge isn't flat enough for the left side and won't sit flush on the back of the joint so it wants to press out uneven and causing binding. Right side went perfect.

Amazingly all the parts have 176,000 miles on them and didn't look too bad.
Even the ball joints seemed tight. I'll continue the drama tomorrow and hopefully get to the front wheel bearing.
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Last edited by Overboost; 01-17-2020 at 08:28 PM.
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  #78  
Old 01-17-2020, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Started the work in the rear today. Not going to lie, this is a genuine PITA. No matter how much preparation and planning goes into a project, it never goes straight.



Got the bushings pressed into both lower control arms, replaced the sway bar end links, integral links and got one side back together but still working on the left side.



I am struggling with my Fleabay ball joint tool, it's like the flat edge isn't flat enough for the left side and won't sit flush on the back of the joint so it wants to press out uneven and causing binding. Right side went perfect.



Amazingly all the parts have 176,000 miles on them and didn't look too bad.

Even the ball joints seemed tight. I'll continue the drama tomorrow and hopefully get to the front wheel bearing.


Have you used excessive heat yet?


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2005 4.4i (LV12368) on Style 87's in summer and Studded Style 130's in winter.

1997 M3/4/5 (EE05340) W/ Vaders, Hella Xenon's, Chromline, DSII's in Summer, Contours on studless snows in winter.

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  #79  
Old 01-17-2020, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bhennrich View Post
Have you used excessive heat yet?


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No heat yet, the problem isn't rust or frozen joint, the tool doesn't fit flush on the back side of the carrier and causes the joint to begin pressing out at an angle and binds. It moved 1 to 2 mm on one side so it isn't frozen, just not pressing out straight. I pressed it back in and will take a grinder to the tool tomorrow when I continue. Having the lower control arms off gives me plenty of view and can see the receiver cup not flush on the carrier.
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  #80  
Old 01-17-2020, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
No heat yet, the problem isn't rust or frozen joint, the tool doesn't fit flush on the back side of the carrier and causes the joint to begin pressing out at an angle and binds. It moved 1 to 2 mm on one side so it isn't frozen, just not pressing out straight. I pressed it back in and will take a grinder to the tool tomorrow when I continue. Having the lower control arms off gives me plenty of view and can see the receiver cup not flush on the carrier.


I would still heat the carrier. But that is me.


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2005 4.4i (LV12368) on Style 87's in summer and Studded Style 130's in winter.

1997 M3/4/5 (EE05340) W/ Vaders, Hella Xenon's, Chromline, DSII's in Summer, Contours on studless snows in winter.

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