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  #231  
Old 05-01-2020, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
We are racing the Aston Martin Vantage GT4 this year and that engine is a monster. Crazy how they have the exhaust ports and turbos on the top of the head
aka "Hot V". Just read someone else is doing one of those as well. Must make exhaust routing, err, interesting.

Remind me what class this is. I did look for your team at the Petit LeMans, but couldn't find you. I recall DPi (weird looking monsters), LMS prototypes, GTLeMans and GTDaytona. Oh, and Roger Penske's monstrosity of an RV, lol.
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  #232  
Old 05-01-2020, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP View Post
aka "Hot V". Just read someone else is doing one of those as well. Must make exhaust routing, err, interesting.

Remind me what class this is. I did look for your team at the Petit LeMans, but couldn't find you. I recall DPi (weird looking monsters), LMS prototypes, GTLeMans and GTDaytona. Oh, and Roger Penske's monstrosity of an RV, lol.
We are running the Aston Martin in SRO (formally World Challenge) in the Pirelli GT4 America Class along with a Porsche GT4 Clubsport. We run a 2 car effort with multiple drivers in the Sprint X category.

The Norma LMP3 car runs in IMSA Prototype Challenge. Those are also sprint races more or less with a maximum of 4 hour races. We ran on Friday at Petit Le Mans last year. We led all the way to the last caution with 10 minutes to go and gave up the lead with a mistake at the restart.

We did finish 2nd in the 2019 Championship though
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  #233  
Old 05-01-2020, 08:32 PM
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We did finish 2nd in the 2019 Championship though
Right on man! I can’t get enough of racing, I swear it’s an issue. I’ve been driving my wife nuts with this racing simulator. It has a Renault R.S. 17, and I’ve been doing 80 lap stints on her Dolby atmos setup. I can tell you she is over it! LoL..
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  #234  
Old 05-01-2020, 09:00 PM
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ok i might sound dumb what is the the difference between preface lift i am trying to buy angel headlight assembly i have a 2003 bmw x5 4.4 what do i have and can you tell by just looking at it ?

got to 50 secs and look at my front grill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLvryEQxhI
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  #235  
Old 05-01-2020, 09:13 PM
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You have a pre-facelift. The inner AE are 160 mm outer diameter.
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  #236  
Old 05-01-2020, 09:15 PM
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thank you brother
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  #237  
Old 05-05-2020, 05:10 PM
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ok i cant catch a break iam getting a p0500 code i just replaced my speed senor on the back right rear ... my brake light abs light comes and goes my pa soft ware says it the open circuit for speed senor that i just replaced any thought s on this?

Thanks in advance
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  #238  
Old 05-05-2020, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tmat1977 View Post
ok i cant catch a break iam getting a p0500 code i just replaced my speed senor on the back right rear ... my brake light abs light comes and goes my pa soft ware says it the open circuit for speed senor that i just replaced any thought s on this?

Thanks in advance
What brand sensor did you use? It could also be the ABS MODULE...
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  #239  
Old 05-05-2020, 05:25 PM
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genuine bmw part form northside imports.. abs module yikes never thought of that this damn car has more modules then seats
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  #240  
Old 05-06-2020, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP View Post
aka "Hot V". Just read someone else is doing one of those as well. Must make exhaust routing, err, interesting.

Remind me what class this is. I did look for your team at the Petit LeMans, but couldn't find you. I recall DPi (weird looking monsters), LMS prototypes, GTLeMans and GTDaytona. Oh, and Roger Penske's monstrosity of an RV, lol.
Just wanted to add, BMW N63 was the first production engine in the world to use the "hot V" setup .. just had to add that in there.



Since car isn't moving, ive decided to knock out the ball joints. Pretty bad, but not TOO bad. Both blind bolts came out fine, but both bolts that were tapped through the carrier have sheared off heads (& I wasn't the one who sheered them off ). First ball joint took me 3 days of slowly hammering it out. Second ball joint took me 3 hours. If anyone is doing this job, I would advise against sticking flat heads between the ears to "break the seal" as a YouTube video suggests. You will chew up the mounting surface of the joint. You don't even need to be on your back, under the car for this job. I didn't remove anything either, no CV, no arms, etc. All you need is a chisel & BFH. Start by chiseling off the top of the ball joint walls until they are flat with the top of the carrier. Then proceed to banging on & around the ball. After sufficient hammering, they will come out. Penetrating fluid around the joint probably helps as well. Ive drilled out & extracted the first stud using HF "warrior" extractor & the quality is actually impressive. This is after I completely stripped the threads of a more expensive extractor from HD; it just would not bite (avoid the very spiraled bits). I need to remove the second stud now, so wish me luck. This one sheered off at an angle so it will be a bit more complicated than the first.
Luckily for me, found that my thrust arm on passenger side is bad......... AGAIN! So I will be replacing that as well with MeyleHD. Excited to get the show back on the road, & stretch the car's legs.
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