ZF 5HP24 Problems - help needed!

[upallnight]

If you think metal shaving has gotten into the trans, you need to also flush. the trans cooler and trans cooler lines.

[turquise1]

As another person who is about to attempt to rebuild a transmission, I really appreciate all the info shared over here. Quick question if you guys don't mind. I am also going to replace the torque converter with a rebuilt one and this one came with a note saying : 'We always prime the converter with 4-6 fluid ounces of ATF. This note is to let you know we are using the same oil with a blue dye instead of red.'.


What does that mean? Which oil is that? Do I need to do anything extra before / after the installation since I will be using the red Castrol?


Thanks,


Ozzie

[RRPhil]

Re-manufacturing the Sachs WA4/W260 S-2GWK F38/A85 torque converter used in the 4.4i, and the WA4/W280 S-2GWK L51 unit used in the 4.6is, is a specialised task. This is because the converter features a captive lock-up clutch that has the spring retainer for the piston friction-welded to centre tower.



This weld has to be turned off to release the piston so that the friction plate can be replaced, and then it has to be accurately welded back into position again afterwards.







Many TC re-manufacturers will not touch this unit for that reason. Others get it apart, see that the clutch is welded, and immediately put it back together again without replacing the lock-up clutch friction plate.

The fact that your supplier is talking about blue and red fluids doesn’t sound good. The only fluid you should use in a 5HP24 is ZF Lifeguard Fluid 5/Pentosin ATF1/Mobil ATF LT71141, otherwise you have no idea if you have the correct friction modifier pack for the controlled-slip LUC control. The correct fluid is ‘straw’ coloured.



Phil

[turquise1]

Thanks Phil,


They are a well known place called 'Transtar'. I read a couple good reviews about them here so I chose their unit. I will call them to see what they mean..


Cheers,


Ozzie

[turquise1]

Hey guys,


Started the process of removing the transmission. Could anyone please tell me the sizes of etorx bolts connecting transmission to the engine? I have removed a couple from the bottom which was 14 but the exact number and location would be very helpful..


Thanks,


Ozzie

[wpoll]

There a lot of useful info. here, inc. the location of the bell-housing bolts...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ission/BwvSjQl

[turquise1]

Transmission is finally out. It took me and a friend 1.5 days to remove it after several problems but it is out. I quickly removed the A/B clutch drum to see the cause of my transmission's delayed / non-engagement. Drums look ok but I thought the o-ring looked almost non-existent. Here are some photos. I will post more as I get into detail..

[RRPhil]

In case it’s of interest, your transmission has been re-manufactured in the past because the B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum axial bearing had failed. You can see that the 3 pads on the B-clutch hub are worn.





Phil

[turquise1]

Hey Phil,


It was actually rebuilt twice and the last one did not do a very good job because it started to act up again after 20k miles. That is when I decided to try to do the rebuilding.

I'd like to have your opinion on that o-ring. I replaced it with a new one. The old one looked worn and it's become brittle as well.

Would such a little difference cause delay and non-engagement (D) issues?

The clutches also look worn and metals have a lot of burn spots as you can see from the photo..


I will keep posting photos..


Thanks,


Ozzie

[turquise1]

Here is a little detail from A clutch drum..


There is a little groove on it where the arrows are pointing at. Is that normal?


Thanks,


Ozzie