ZF 5HP24 Problems - help needed!

[turquise1]

Here is another question after noticing the 'breather' thing is partially broken. Not sure when it happened but I am a little worried. I am assuming its purpose is to let air in / out and it should still be ok to work like that?


Please let me know,


Thanks,


Ozzie

[upallnight]

Since you have it apart I would just replace it now. Do it right or do it twice.

[RRPhil]

Yes, you should be able to rotate the oil pump, Do you definitely have the square indentation on the faces of both the rotor and the ring facing upwards?

With the intermediate housing, it’s important to remove all old gasket material from the mating face and to just use the green gasket from the overhaul kit, otherwise the end float will be wrong (correct end float setting = 0.20 - 0.40mm). The end float is adjusted using selective washers for the axial bearing which sits in the recess in the B-clutch drum.







As a measure of ZF’s manufacturing expertise at producing consistent tolerances, in 95% of the transmissions that I strip the same 1.8mm washer is fitted, despite the fact that there are 15 dimensions involved in the tolerance stack-up.



You need to replace the broken air breather otherwise you may get fluid being centrifuged and ejected through the breather tube. It may be a component that CTSC or Eriksson Industries stocks. The ZF part number is 0501 210 179. Incidentally, the colour of the breather gives a good indication of how hot the transmission has been running, as the plastic darkens with heat.



Phil

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Since you have it apart I would just replace it now. Do it right or do it twice.

Unfortunately, I do not have any time left for the garage I am renting and the transmission is going in in a day or so I really do not have any time left to order another one. I talked to ZF people (Eriksson) and they said that should not be a problem. They said the older versions actually did not have that broken part of the breather at all. They also suggested me to repair it with epoxy and it should be ok..


Cheers,


Ozzie

[TriX5]

Hmmm, thread hi-jack alert :-) Does anyone know what happened to the OP who seemed to lurch from one problem to the next.....?

[turquise1]

Here are the final photos before I try to put the transmission back on the car. Is there any measurement to verify things are correctly in? Also, would it be possible to test the transmission before putting the exhaust etc. in to see if it is working?


Cheers,


Oz

[RRPhil]

That doesn't look fully seated on the C-clutch yet. The dimension you illustrated should be around 20mm. When it's all re-assembled you should be able to move the input shaft in and out by 0.2-0.4mm.

Phil

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by RRPhil

That doesn't look fully seated on the C-clutch yet. The dimension you illustrated should be around 20mm. When it's all re-assembled you should be able to move the input shaft in and out by 0.2-0.4mm.

Phil

Thanks Phil,


What I measured was around 32mm. I will take a look again..


Cheers,


Ozzie

[turquise1]

So, here is the update. Transmission rebuilt, put back in and today finally I had a chance to test it.



Now the car does not start at all. It keeps cranking (very unhealthy sounds, I should add) and fuel smell like it is being flooded and no start. Eventually the battery went dead and I gave up for today..



Could a not properly installed transmission cause this? Any ideas?


Cheers,


Ozzie

[upallnight]

The engine is flooded. Like my dad who was an ASE certified mechanic will tell me not going to get it started when the engine is flooded.

Remove all the plugs from the engine if you have compress air, dry out each cylinder, put new plugs back into the engine. If you have starting fluid, give it a shot after the MAF, not before or else you have a chance of ruining the MAF. Give it a crank and let her rip.