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#11
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My current understanding of these adaptations is that they are to compensate for clutch pack wear as the transmission ages. The only time they would need to be reset is if hard parts that affect clutch pack engagement have been changed, i.e. after a full transmission rebuild that included changing clutch pack components etc. Work such as fluid changes, seal changes and even solenoid changes do not, in theory, warrant resetting the adaptations. Certainly, many folk have done so with either no ill effects or even a perceived improvement in shift quality, but usually only after a period of transmission re-adaptation and in many cases the adaptations have returned to the same values as were present prior to the reset. In my own case, I have been sorely tempted to reset the adaptations in the hope for an improvement in shift quality but I have (to date) resisted doing so, since I fear that doing so will result in worse shifting quality until the adaptions return to the previous values, along with the potential for more transmission wear/damage while doing so. Having said all that, I know lots of folk do the reset and all is fine, after a period of re-adaptation (either using the documented ZF procedure or just driving the sucker....). You do you.... ![]() And that damn 2-1 slam...? Yeah, that is hard to cure sometimes. Mine has come and gone over the last 10 years. The last time I "cured" it was when I replaced the ATC500 transfer case fluid and ran the "oil wear adaptation" routine in DIS. The 2-1 slam was gone for several years after that - God alone (but maybe along with some BMW engineers) knows why.... ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
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#12
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Quote:
*edit* or are you saying that in the previous level setting exercise, you didn't have enough fluid on-hand to fill the trans correctly? ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
#13
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But yes, either the very slight nose low attitude on the car caused the fluid to not overfill or I actually do not have enough. I had the full 7 litres of the ZF LifeguardFluid 6 transmission fluid but probably wasted about 0.5 litre of the stuff during the process. Who knows...... Are you confident it's nothing to do with any of the seals I installed? I mean the 4 sleve seals are a given to be right, I'm just wondering about the bridge seal with the 2 rectangles. Quote:
Well it's done now.....can't undo it ![]() Quote:
EDIT: This is the kit I used. My old bridge seal didn't have the tab on the side but I didn't remove it on the new one either..... ![]() Last edited by Homerlovesbeer; 06-18-2025 at 04:45 AM. |
#14
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I always thought solenoid change was required for fixing the 2-1 slam.
Does it get worse it better when wearmed up? Amd you mentioned sport mode but can you just kick in to m/s after the car goes to 2nd then keep it there until y stop and go back to normal?
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#15
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No change when warm.
I don't need to manually change down when in Sport mode, it shifts into first sooner before coming to a stop. In D it's pretty much stopped before it goes into first where it then jolts forward. I really have no idea if replacing the solenoids would fix that. If it guaranteed it, I may consider going through the pain and mess of doing the job all over again |
#16
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Find some threads. most people do a Medtronic rebuild. to solve that problem, but I’m pretty sure I’ve read it was just one or two solenoids that when replaced will solve the two to one slam.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#17
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In my case, no 2-1 slam... but there was occasionally slippage going from 3-4. Since it was my last chance to have my friend, RIP Robert, help me, we did all the solenoids as well.
As far as how much goes in, I left mine to drain for about 3 days, plus drained the valve body, and got almost 8L back in, using my MityVac 7201. Super fast, clean and simple using the side port... but that may be a little extra, as has been noted elsewhere. So far no ill effects in about six years doing it that way (twice with Valvoline MaxLife red). How did you reset the adaptions? As I think wpoll pointed out in the other thread, you can't do it with the ignition-accelerator method. That may have applied to older BMWs. |
#18
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If you happened to reset the transmission adaptation values, here's detailed information on what to expect (sounds like the poor shift quality you're experiencing) and the relearn procedures for fixing the poor shift quality.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-...daptations-zf6 Relearn procedure: https://s3.amazonaws.com/fcp-creativ...Software+N.png
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. Last edited by X5only; 06-18-2025 at 07:48 PM. |
#19
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Quote:
From the website I see this Quote:
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#20
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If I were you, I would focus on verifying that the transmission oil is at the correct level as per instructions. Follow the instructions and do not cut corners. Vehicle/transmission needs to be level (I'd use a magnetic leveler on the transmission itself). After validating the level is correct (not under filled or over filled) at the specified temp, I'd then research further.
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. |
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poor shifts, transmission fluid change |
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