Has anybody used an automatic radiator in a manual car?

[paramax55]

Originally Posted by Masospaghetti

I'm curious if it holds up. 5.5 lbs of force isn't really that much when the cooling system holds 30 psi. That plug is probably like 1 square inch? That's 30 lbs of force.

The diameter is .450". That makes the surface area .159" sq.

[Masospaghetti]

Originally Posted by paramax55

The diameter is .450". That makes the surface area .159" sq.

That's still 4.77 lbs of force when pressurized. I wouldn't be comfortable with that personally without some other retention mechanism.

[cn90]

I agree re JB Weld.
Best is to use a trans cooler as a plug.
On eBay, Trans cooler is about $35-$40, all you need is 2 new O-rings to go with it.

But again, Man Radiator is still available, you just have to look hard for it in the aftermarket.

[80stech]

There are a number of ways the plug can be held in securely including using the plate or melting the edges, hose clamp, pin, grinding a bit of a groove into the pipe for the JB weld to lock into, etc. I don't see how the plate was even a problem or how it's weird that they only used 1/2 of the automatic one instead of making a different part. If it was me I would have went with cutting pipe threads but I have the taps and dies handy. Waaay too much drama for what it is.

[paramax55]

After I put this plug in, I tried to pull it back out some to clean the edges one last time with acetone. I couldn't budge it. It won't be moving even without the JB Weld. With the JB Weld added, it's permanent. I also don't trust the head gasket on this thing, either. It's going to get a bunch of miles close to home before it goes any distance. If this plug were to move, it's only a few minutes to pull the radiator out and cross pin it. As far as threading it for a plug... the walls of this tubular piece are only .100" thick. A pipe tap is tapered and that means a plug is putting outward pressure on the hole it's screwed in to. I've already replaced the expansion tank from cracking and I think it would be inviting the same problem with the raiator several years down the road.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by cn90

I agree re JB Weld.
Best is to use a trans cooler as a plug.
On eBay, Trans cooler is about $35-$40, all you need is 2 new O-rings to go with it.

But again, Man Radiator is still available, you just have to look hard for it in the aftermarket.

Again the heat exchanger is not connected to that radiator connector, but the mounting plate.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by paramax55

As far as threading it for a plug... the walls of this tubular piece are only .100" thick. A pipe tap is tapered and that means a plug is putting outward pressure on the hole it's screwed in to.

Use end tap so the thread is not tapered and/or taper the bolt too. If you drill a suitable grooved/tapered flat surface on the connector face for o ring there is not much force required. Compare it to bleed screw which are usually destroyed by over torquing when the o ring does the job and very low torque needed.

[paramax55]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

Use end tap so the thread is not tapered and/or taper the bolt too. If you drill a suitable grooved/tapered flat surface on the connector face for o ring there is not much force required. Compare it to bleed screw which are usually destroyed by over torquing when the o ring does the job and very low torque needed.

The hole is .450, which is the minor diameter for a 1/2-20 thread. So a tap would go right in. But it would cut about 1/4 of the way into the .100 thick wall - if it doesn't wander to one side or the other. Then I would be cutting an o-ring groove into some sort of bolt - stainless, steel, aluminum, or plastic. Everyone hates cutting stainless. I would prefer aluminum or plastic. So I would have to order a bolt, or make it, then machine it. Or I could make a plug with aluminum I already have, which I did.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by paramax55

The hole is .450, which is the minor diameter for a 1/2-20 thread. So a tap would go right in. But it would cut about 1/4 of the way into the .100 thick wall - if it doesn't wander to one side or the other. Then I would be cutting an o-ring groove into some sort of bolt - stainless, steel, aluminum, or plastic. Everyone hates cutting stainless. I would prefer aluminum or plastic. So I would have to order a bolt, or make it, then machine it. Or I could make a plug with aluminum I already have, which I did.

Why not use M12 for example oil plug like I suggested? I know the thread on the plug side won't be be full depth but likely sufficient when long enough and use some gasket sealant or even filling thread locker to secure it in place.

You could even try the bolt straight on when properly heated. It will melt the threads (rolling) instead of removing material with a tap.

[paramax55]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

Why not use M12 for example oil plug like I suggested? I know the thread on the plug side won't be be full depth but likely sufficient when long enough and use some gasket sealant or even filling thread locker to secure it in place.

You could even try the bolt straight on when properly heated. It will melt the threads (rolling) instead of removing material with a tap.

Because it was easier to make a plug. And it kept more of the plastic in place. And it worked.