SelfLevel SUSP.INACT warning appears...why?

[Patryk1098]

Originally Posted by electricalserv x5

if the suspension level alert comes on ,try taking to fuse out to set set the system.

You mean while the car's off, turning the car on, then off, putting the fuse back in, and the error should clear? --or will that just reset the system?

Please clarify. Thanks!

[SlickGT1]

Originally Posted by Patryk1098

In Addition;

My air suspension system works --except when it gets REALLY cold. My X5 is parked outside and when the temps drop into the teens -or lower- I get a "SELFLEVEL SUSP. INACT." message up on the dash. It doesn't go away when the temps go up or when I restart the car.

I've had the car at the shop for other work, and when the techs clear the error to perform a diagnostic, it doesn't come back. The leveling system works fine again, and all is well.

Has anyone else experienced similar symptoms; the self-leveling suspension system throwing errors in cold temperatures. Would love to know if this is a failing sensor(s) or just a failure in engineering/design?

I don't know what the error codes are, but I'm planning on buying this ECU reading tool to help try to diagnose the problem before temperatures rise on average:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Thanks in advance.

The only thing I can think of with your symptoms is that either the cold is affecting your relay, or the condensation is not coming out of the system, and something is freezing up. I'd check the relay first though.

[Patryk1098]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

The only thing I can think of with your symptoms is that either the cold is affecting your relay, or the condensation is not coming out of the system, and something is freezing up. I'd check the relay first though.

That sounds interesting. I'll check the relay, but where would condensation build up in the system? Within the compression tank? Is there a way to either prevent condensation from building up, or a way to evacuate it (does the system have a way of doing that itself)?

Thanks for the tip!

[SlickGT1]

Yes the compressor has a dryer built into it. If that doesn't engage, or just dies, you will get a lot of moisture in the system.

Its a compressor thing in general. Figure it like this. The compressor sucks in air, we know that. Air has moisture. Moisture will collect. One way to get rid of moisture is to drain it, somewhere low in the system.

This would be a good thing do to if there was a low place in the system that could be opened up. I doubt that there is, so the system uses a dryer, I can't see this working to well though, and it is probably the cause of all these part failures in the suspension.

[Patryk1098]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Yes the compressor has a dryer built into it. If that doesn't engage, or just dies, you will get a lot of moisture in the system.

Its a compressor thing in general. Figure it like this. The compressor sucks in air, we know that. Air has moisture. Moisture will collect. One way to get rid of moisture is to drain it, somewhere low in the system.

This would be a good thing do to if there was a low place in the system that could be opened up. I doubt that there is, so the system uses a dryer, I can't see this working to well though, and it is probably the cause of all these part failures in the suspension.

I was afraid you'd say something like that. So basically, to reset the system to its "new" state, I'd have to take out each air spring and the compression chamber, evacuate all air and water from each component, then re-install it. That'd probably mean I'd have to replace the compressor to get a new dryer.

The water won't come out before the air because it'll be resting at the bottom of each component.

What about replacing the compressor (to ensure the dryer's working), waiting until the summer when temps get up and then completely evacuating the system. With dry air coming in and hot temps, that should help some of the water evaporate and exit the system. I suppose if that actually worked, I could just raise and lower the car using the air-ride system itself over a few weeks repeatedly; raise the car, let it sit for a day, drop the car, repeat.

Am I stretching here? Just thinking out loud.

[SlickGT1]

Originally Posted by Patryk1098

I was afraid you'd say something like that. So basically, to reset the system to its "new" state, I'd have to take out each air spring and the compression chamber, evacuate all air and water from each component, then re-install it. That'd probably mean I'd have to replace the compressor to get a new dryer.

The water won't come out before the air because it'll be resting at the bottom of each component.

What about replacing the compressor (to ensure the dryer's working), waiting until the summer when temps get up and then completely evacuating the system. With dry air coming in and hot temps, that should help some of the water evaporate and exit the system. I suppose if that actually worked, I could just raise and lower the car using the air-ride system itself over a few weeks repeatedly; raise the car, let it sit for a day, drop the car, repeat.

Am I stretching here? Just thinking out loud.

Lol, I was actually thinking the same. I have never had the pleasure of dealing with this issue yet, so didn't get a chance to ever look at the parts and what could even be done.

I just know, from working with tool compressors, that moisture makes all the stuff go boom.

Systems without drains, and dryers, best thing you can do it dump the air in there when not in use. So maybe lowering the car over night would help.

I really don't know for sure, just my thoughts on the matter.

Still in your case, I think you should check the cheap relay first. Check connections, corrosion stuff like that.

[Patryk1098]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Lol, I was actually thinking the same. I have never had the pleasure of dealing with this issue yet, so didn't get a chance to ever look at the parts and what could even be done.

I just know, from working with tool compressors, that moisture makes all the stuff go boom.

Systems without drains, and dryers, best thing you can do it dump the air in there when not in use. So maybe lowering the car over night would help.

I really don't know for sure, just my thoughts on the matter.

Still in your case, I think you should check the cheap relay first. Check connections, corrosion stuff like that.

Absolutely. Either way, this isn't going to get fixed until the summer. It's not a "real" problem --in that the suspension works fine, just doesn't lower or raise. My air springs aren't leaking; I just have an annoying error popping up when it's really cold out.

Again; thanks for the suggestion. You've opened me up to troubleshooting ideas that weren't even on my radar.

[PUREVIL]

While we are on the topic...

I was troubleshooting my left front. It's been dropping overnight.
I found it leaking at the fitting that goes directly into the bag.

So, I took it off to replace it. I also removed the line and the fitting at the valve under the passenger door. I figured why not while I'm at it.

Got the new line and fittings all in, started the engine and the bag filled right up. No problem. I hop into the drivers seat just in time to hear the dreaded chime and see SELFLEVEL AIRSUSP. INACT pop up on the display. Now my raise and lower switch won't do anything.
I tried disconnecting the neg. cable in the trunk, did nothing. Have started/shut down about a hundred times, nothing. The suspension is sitting nice and level, it is adjusting (moved the rod and watched it adjust) but the freakin' code won't clear and I can't raise or lower manually...

Any other thoughts on how to clear the code myself? I tried pulling the two fuses above the subwoofer labled for air suspension already.

[SlickGT1]

Try disconnecting the neg and positive in the trunk. I've heard people also touching the wires together, and leaving them like that for 30 min. (That's actually the instructions for Audi / VW) I did this on my car the other day, when I was having problems with the GT1. That reset everything. Which was a pain in the ass as I had to reprogram all the crap that's in the car. Bluetooth, radio, seat memory, time, all mpg reset, I mean everything.

Otherwise, I think you might have to get someone with a GT1 to clear it, or similar computer.

[Patryk1098]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Try disconnecting the neg and positive in the trunk. I've heard people also touching the wires together, and leaving them like that for 30 min. (That's actually the instructions for Audi / VW) I did this on my car the other day, when I was having problems with the GT1. That reset everything. Which was a pain in the ass as I had to reprogram all the crap that's in the car. Bluetooth, radio, seat memory, time, all mpg reset, I mean everything.

Otherwise, I think you might have to get someone with a GT1 to clear it, or similar computer.

The link I posted above is to a system LIKE a GT1, but a step down and much much faster. That device allows you to reset error codes. Additionally, you can prevent the error from appearing on the dash all together. This could help prevent false-positives from appearing and preventing the system from working.

It's also a lot cheaper than a GT1.