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#1
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Quote:
*the 4x4 light went out as soon as I started driving*
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2005 4.8is |
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#2
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Yea I think you will have to get someone to scan your car and clear that code . Ok one more thing you can try. Pull the fuses for the suspension. I doubt it will work at this point though. I have a feeling the error is written to the computers and stored. Might be worth a shot though. The 4x4 thing will go away as soon as you start driving. Was on my car too. |
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#3
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Trust me it is stored! The air suspension faults must be reset by dealer or someone with GT1! I was pulling fuses and disconnecting the battery and it just stays there! |
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#4
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susp probs
I gave up on my faulty suspension, I went ahead and ordered coils from a coil sprung x5 of similar year off ebay and swapped my rear leaky bags for the coils, plus some custom perches.. It has worked great since. She does sit a little lower than stock and the susp inactive light stays on but for about 80 bucks i dont have to worry about coming out to a tail dragger in the parking lot. just some food for thought hope it helps
Last edited by Brad-E53; 01-28-2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: add some good stuff |
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#5
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Where is the reservoir valve? Can you check that? Seems like all is working when the compressor is running, but something is leaking for sure. You need to get this done soon, or you will burn the compressor.
"Can't put in real oem link" It seems part 1, the valve unit might be leaking. Are you sure you tested those connections well? Also the pressure ACCUMULATOR might be leaking, which is why both your fronts drop. If they were fine before, as in only one side dropped, I have a feeling the connections are not good. What's the procedure on replacing these parts. Do you need to use teflon tape or something on the connections. I have my share of compressor (garage compressor) upgrades and rebuilds that I always use the tape. Once you turn off the car, can't you get under it and start spraying soap water on the connections and whatever else. I figure at that pressure you should be able to find the leak. |
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#6
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#7
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Just a quick update... I'm still fighting this issue.
Last night, I replaced the right front leveling sensor, the reservoir pressure sensor, and the rod that hooks from the lower arm to the leveling sensor. I reset the control unit with the 1.4.0 scanner and the system started working. The air compressor came on right away and the whole car leveled out at the correct height. As soon as the compressor stopped, the front end of the car started dropping and then the compressor kicked back in. The car raised up again and dropped again. This continued until I shut the X off and then it dropped all the way down. I pulled codes and now have: 22 (034) Reservoir Pressure Sensor 23 (035) Supply Reservoir Pressure Sensor 17 (023) Supply Reservoir Exhaust Valve 09 (009) Reservoir Valve I think what is happening is the valve under the passenger door (Part# 37246779713) is leaking/exhausting the air pressure for the front end. I plan to take the bottom covers off again tonight and check with soapy water. I ran short on time last night.
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2005 4.8is |
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#8
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***Update***
I pulled the bottom cover off from under the passenger side again tonight and soaped up every inch of the air system from front to back. I shot soapy water up on the front and rear bags and every fitting. I took the trunk apart again and soaped up the lines and fittings there too. STILL NO LEAK FOUND... I was continually running back to my laptop to air up the system and then checking the dripping lines while the car dropped. Now we get to the part that I'm almost embarrassed to admit... I had left the trunk lid and driver's door open long enough to wear down the battery. So I popped the hood to put the charger on. With the hood up and the laptop connected, the air system inflated yet again and there it was. The faintest hiss coming from the passenger side strut tower. I shot some of my spray solution at it and sure enough, bubbles... I pulled the large black cap off and applied more solution, big bubbles. Now is when I discover that the 14mm nut in the center is nearly ready to fall off due to the F@#*ING idiot that improperly installed it. The dealership I bought the car from had the strut replaced just before I picked it up. Apparently they damaged about half of the threads on the nut and didn't have another one to install. So rather than getting another one, they ran it down until it stopped which was about 4 threads in. Now, I know the bag is BRAND NEW as of 3 months ago. Does anyone have hope that a new nut and tightening this thing down will allow it to reseal??? There is noplace open this time of night to get an odd metric nut so I'm on hold until morning...
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2005 4.8is |
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#9
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If you are just going to try to run a new nut. Clean out the threads first. Use a pic, thin screwdriver, whatever you have to get the old crap out. Spray some penetrating oil on it. Stop tightening when the resistance get decent and back off. If the nut gets hot, take it off and use a different one. Hot nut, the threads are going to go on it. I've done this before, not fun, but doable. Spray some penetrating oil on it By the way, which software are you using? |
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#10
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Slick - Luckily my shop is equipped with the tooling needed to fix/chase threads. The bolt is still in good shape so I'm just going to do a quick clean/lube and try the new nut. When the idiot reused the old nut it wouldn't go on past a couple of turns and he either wasn't man enough to force it further or had at enough common sense not to force it.
I'm going to take the whole strut out before trying the new nut and make sure it's not damaged on the top from slamming around in there. The software I have is BMW Scanner 1.4.0 I purchased it on ebay from germanautorecycler for under $150. It came with the interface cable and a disc containing the program. So far I have been able to read and clear every code and use it to reset the air ride (EHC). It DOES NOT do ride height calibrations but I'm very happy with it so far.
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2005 4.8is |
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