Anyone done CV Boot Boot DIY?

[GXL]

So Empi is British garbage?

[x5turtle]

I hope someone would have an answer, where can I find detail torque specs?

I am going to attack this job today and tomorrow. I will try to make a write up, I hope I don't get too frustrated in the middle and forget about taking pictures and recording procedures~ :-)

[X5 Meister]

Thought I'd add this to the rest of the outstanding info in this thread.

[generx]

Thanks for this thread, I just washed the X last weekend and noticed a little grease splatter on my R/F wheel. Sure enough, it was the outer boot, glad I caught it early.

I ordered the inner and outer boot kit on Monday from autohausaz.com ($29 shipped) which arrived today. I may as well do them both since it'll all be apart anyway. I did inspect the package and noticed that the box for the outer boot kit was all dirty. Upon opening, there was a bunch of grease inside and the small clamp was missing. The grease pack was also missing. Lame. It was probably a return that someone put back in inventory. The invoice said: "Inspected by BS"

I called and asked for a replacement which won't ship until Monday as well as a return slip for the one I received. I also went ahead and ordered the left side inner/outer boots which I should have done in the first place, may as well take care of both sides next weekend.

[X5 Meister]

Good info. Why don't you take a few photos for a nice write up?

[Harley Monster]

This thread has saved my you know what twice now.

I did a full brake job last February and replaced the inner and outer CV boots on the drivers side. The passenger side looked OK so I did not replace the boots.

I took my car to Costco this week (a year later) for a tire rotation and Nitrogen inflation and they said the passenger side outer CV boot was torn and leaking.

Fortunately I had bought two sets of CV boots when I did the brake job.

MY ADVICE: IF ONE SIDE IS TORN REPLACE BOTH SIDES WHILE YOU ARE AT IT BECAUSE THE OTHER ONE IS NOT FAR BEHIND.

I returned to this thread for a review and it was still a PITA.

My inner CV joint Tri-star did not come off as easy as the drivers side. I ended up using the air chisel solution and the socket reinstall. Drivers side was really easy compared to the passenger side; anyone else have this problem?

The posting in the articles section needs to be redone...the DIYer would be foolish to take the swivel bearing apart just for a CV boot replacement. That article will cause a lot of unnecessary problems. The CV boot replacement from the engine side of the axle is the only way to go.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!

[CharlieHustleX5]

With all the necessary tools, removing the swivel bearing is not a difficult job. It does help in clearing up an open work space and makes cleaning up the mess easier if the boot threw grease everywhere. It also gives you a chance to better inspect bushing condition and do a brake service if you needed to.

There are other methods to replacing a CV boot as we all can see. Some find one way more suitable than another. The Bentley manual method would be considered the factory way to replace the boot, and differs from shortcut methods others have derived. Would it be safe to say the engineers and mechanics that wrote the procedure are fools?

I'm not saying one method is better than another, and I will say that the removal of the axle shaft from the engine side does have its conveniences if you dont have all the tools to safely remove the outboard shaft from the swivel bearing. I think rather than knock on a particular method, best to make another DIY write-up on replacing a CV boot so everyone can see the alternatives to the current write up posted in the Articles section.

[generx]

Thanks for the tip, I'm going to tackle this job over the weekend. Autohausaz was great about sending me a replacement at no cost and is also sending me the kit for the other side which should arrive on Friday so I'm planning to do both sides. Will try to document and take notes if I get a chance.

I suspect that the garbage oem rubber combined with the tight turning circle of the X contributes to the boots failing prematurely. At full lock right or left, the boots are really stretched.

[GXL]

Originally Posted by generx

I suspect that the garbage oem rubber combined with the tight turning circle of the X contributes to the boots failing prematurely. At full lock right or left, the boots are really stretched.

The moral of the story is to try not to turn your wheels full lock to avoid stretching the garbage oem rubber boots.

BTW, I just called the local foreign autoparts here in Raleigh, they have a brand new axle from Empi with a 1 year warranty for $122.00 plus tax.

For those of you who have already done this job, but just replaced the boots; would you say getting a replacement axle will better/faster/easier than replacing the broken boots?

I don't have an air compressor, does that mean I wouldn't be able to complete the job?

[katit]

Originally Posted by GXL

The moral of the story is try not to turn your wheels full lock to avoid stretching the oim garbage rubber.

If you do your own oil change it helps to apply rubber conditioner to boots at the same time. Seems to make their life longer. They dry crack.

For those that have already done this job, but just replaced the boots; would you say getting a replacement axle will better than replacing the broken boots?

You absolutely better off replacing boot on OE axle given that CV joint is good (you caught it in time)