Anyone done CV Boot Boot DIY?

[we350z]

FYI - If you are planning to reuse original clamps for inner boot, don't.

I did and it wasn't tight enough so some of the lithium grease was squeezed out and shot all over the place, just like its sibling did when it tore.

I replaced the POS clamp last night with a screw clamp, snug as a bug now with no grease spray.

I think I put too much grease in there to begin with, but i may inject a little more in when I do the brakes soon just to be safe

BTW - i reused outer clamps without issue. I think these are easier to get tighter because to outer boot is softer.

Either way these OEM clamps for for SHIT. I would like to meet the retard who designed them.

[e53fl]

I dont think they are designed to be reused thats why the boot kit contains the new bands. I will admit that the bands for the inner boots in some kits are very stiff and hard to pinch into place with the crimper tool. I had to reorder another boot kit for the inner because i couldnt get the 1st one to crimp properly. Luckily the bands from the new boot kit were smaller and easier to crimp..I ordered a different brand. I looked at the hose clamp type that u screw down but found that they are wider than the grooves on the boot/seat. I'm glad to hear that they worked for u...I know ur glad to get that project out of the way....remember u still have the other side to go....good work

[we350z]

Yes the screw clamps are wider than groovesby a tiny bit, but it doesn't matter. The fitment is good and forms a tight seal. Even the writer of the DIY used screw clamps. The outer boot clamps were fine for me to reuse - that boot fitment is totally different. I am glad to get this out of the way. As for the other side, it is fine - for now Thanks!

Originally Posted by e53fl

I dont think they are designed to be reused thats why the boot kit contains the new bands. I will admit that the bands for the inner boots in some kits are very stiff and hard to pinch into place with the crimper tool. I had to reorder another boot kit for the inner because i couldnt get the 1st one to crimp properly. Luckily the bands from the new boot kit were smaller and easier to crimp..I ordered a different brand. I looked at the hose clamp type that u screw down but found that they are wider than the grooves on the boot/seat. I'm glad to hear that they worked for u...I know ur glad to get that project out of the way....remember u still have the other side to go....good work

[we350z]

Well seems I will most likely be doing this entire job again since my passenger side boot just recently ruptured. The apple really doesn't fall to far from the tree I suppose. I already ordered the kit from Crevier should be here tomorrow. I think I can bang this out in a couple hours now for sure. Only difference is there is an additional suspension sensor. Anyway I had to come up with a quick fix so I could drive to my tint appointment this weekend. I also cleaned up all the grease that was thrown around. I wont be driving the car around anymore like this, and I don't endorse this as a long-term solution but if you are in a jam:

- zipties
- string (optional)
- duct tape
- large plastic food storage bad (or saran wrap)

0) jack up your ride and remove the wheel.

1) clean the torn boot as best you can being careful not to contaminate inisde the boot

2) take a large clean plastic food storage bag cut the ziploc part off then cut two sides off. Trim it down so that its about 60% of total original width.

3) wrap bag around boot, use a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. then run a long piece of tape around vig end and pull it taught.

4) use either a large ziptie or tie a piece of sting along the big end of the boot over the tape - this will keep it from flying off.

5) squeeze the other end of the bag together (i sort of rotated it a little while doing this to make fit beter) and use zip tie over original metal clip.

6) Pull the bag back from under the clip towards the big end of the boot to allow some slack in the bag for when the boot expands while turning

7) Turn ignition on and test clearance by turning wheel all the way left and all the way right.

8) put wheels back on you are good to go

[katit]

"Additional suspension sensor" is a brake wear sensor

[we350z]

Isn't brake wear sensor only on driver side and connects to the little black box? The thing I speak of is attached to the thin vertical tension bar.

Originally Posted by katit

"Additional suspension sensor" is a brake wear sensor

[flyingmachine]

Originally Posted by we350z

Isn't brake wear sensor only on driver side and connects to the little black box? The thing I speak of is attached to the thin vertical tension bar.

Not tension bar/strut. It's the sensor that goes on wishbone(lower control arms), right? If I remember correctly, that's ride height sensor. It's quite easy to take it off. Are you gonna do it the same way? (take the inner CV joint out)

When you did the other side, did you leave the wishbone attached to the steering knuckle?

[we350z]

Ahh.... this makes total sense. Anything special regarding removing this apparatus and putting it back? I did driver side last february, but i think maybe I have put at most 400-500 miles on it since then with the brakes needing replacement and all.

Yes I am going to do it the same way, taking the entire half shaft assembly out of the diff. I did leave the wishbone attached to the assembly. I also followed the instructions and torqued these bolts down with vehicle weight on them.

Originally Posted by flyingmachine

Not tension bar/strut. It's the sensor that goes on wishbone(lower control arms), right? If I remember correctly, that's ride height sensor. It's quite easy to take it off. Are you gonna do it the same way? (take the inner CV joint out)

When you did the other side, did you leave the wishbone attached to the steering knuckle?

[flyingmachine]

Originally Posted by we350z

Ahh.... this makes total sense. Anything special regarding removing this apparatus and putting it back? I did driver side last february, but i think maybe I have put at most 400-500 miles on it since then with the brakes needing replacement and all.

Yes I am going to do it the same way, taking the entire half shaft assembly out of the diff. I did leave the wishbone attached to the assembly. I also followed the instructions and torqued these bolts down with vehicle weight on them.

Be careful not to damage control arm ball joint. If it's shot, you will have to get it off steering knuckle and it's real PITA to do it.

[we350z]

I started work on my passenger side outer CV boot last night. About halfway through, must say its much easier the second time around. I am finding myself going back to my own thread here and there tho

I wanna bang this out and then get the car over to the indy dealer for them to do an alignment and check my steering wheel shudder.