Anyone done CV Boot Boot DIY?

[we350z]

Just getting to this now unfortunately, but I had a question regarding a few things:

Originally Posted by katit

In step 9 remove whole deal.

Please elaborate on specifically what you mean by the "whole deal"

Originally Posted by katit

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

This is the step I am on right now, can you tell me which bolt you are referring to as the "subframe bolt for lower arm" so you could swing it (#10, wish bone/rear control arm) out. What number is the bolt in this picture? I loostened 12, 13, and 14 per the DIY. I will be sure to tighten and torque them to spec with the vehicle on the ground.

[katit]

By whole deal I ment #6, #10 and wheel carrier with axle.

You also need to disconnect sway bar link and tie rod end (balljoint)

I beleive I referred to "lower arm" as #10 and bolt would be #12 then.

[fast4d]

I changed the oil and tranny fluid last night and notice the driver boot is starting to crack. damn I hate working on this thing.

you shouldn't worry about reusing the inner boot. the outer boot wears out at 3x the rate.

I'll probably remove it from the outside since I should probably replace the wheel bearing. our x5 has 110k miles.

[we350z]

Originally Posted by katit

By whole deal I ment #6, #10 and wheel carrier with axle.

Cool. I hate how there are multiple names for everything. Is "wheel carrier" just another name for the hub or swivel bearing (#4 in pic below)? So once everything is disconnected the entire assembly (including the wish bone?) should pull out with the half shaft? Trying to picture this. Where did the air hammer come in to play and where did you place it?

Originally Posted by katit

You also need to disconnect sway bar link and tie rod end (balljoint)

Where is the sway bar link, tie rod end (balljoint) is the straight one attached to the strut right?

Originally Posted by katit

I beleive I referred to "lower arm" as #10 and bolt would be #12 then.

Still confused, you completely removed the wish bone or left it attached to the assembly (whole deal). Does it matter?

Thank you so much for answering all my silly questions.

[fast4d]

if you undo the two #14 nut and pop the joints off AND undo the tie rod (connects to steering rack) and sway bar end link, you'll be able to pull the half shaft (drive shaft/axle) straight out. from the front diff.

[we350z]

Originally Posted by fast4d

if you undo the two #14 nut and pop the joints off AND undo the tie rod (connects to steering rack)...

OK, i undid both #14 nuts and the nut for the steering tie rod. So you are saying pop the front (#6) and rear (#10) control arm out of the hub first THEN pop the steering tie rod out and move it out of the way? Does the order really matter? In Step 4 the DIY says to do the steering tie rod first then the control arms:

"Do not remove the arms yet. Its much easier to have the arms still installed to hold the swivel bearing still while you break it loose.

...

If you are using an impact gun, then it doesn't matter and you can remove the arms. The 2 control arms will be difficult to remove unless you have the special BMW press tool, or you can remove the whole arm like i did in the next steps."

This wording is confusing. I am not sure if this process stays the same since I am doing the shortcut (skipping step 8). I just want to do it the easiest and safest way without jacking anything up lol

Originally Posted by fast4d

..and sway bar end link, you'll be able to pull the half shaft (drive shaft/axle) straight out. from the front diff.

I still don't understand WHERE the sway bar end link is, could you either tell me the number or show me in a picture?

So the entire thing will come off the vehicle and will not be connected to anything anymore? So like can i take the entire assembly to a work bench to slide the boots off?

[we350z]

I'm having a tough time tapping the steering tie rod out of the hub, is there a trick to this or am I just not using enough force? I have removed the bolts (12, 13, 14) for both the front and rear arms, however they are still connected in place - should I try popping these out first? Any help would be appreciated!

[katit]

By tapping bolt on tie rod end you won't get anywhere. You will just ruin threads. And it does require some force to pop out.

3 things you can do:
1. Use proper ball joint remover ($100 tool) - this is what I do.
2. Use pickle fork and probably distroying boot
3. Try it with 2 hammers. It probably WILL work if you know how to.
Place 1 hammer behind and hit with other hammer on a side of hub around where tie rod tapered threaded bolt goes through. The idea is to cause temporary deformation and make hub push tie rod end out. I hope I described more or less clearly

[we350z]

Originally Posted by katit

1. Use proper ball joint remover ($100 tool) - this is what I do.

I've learned by now NOT to try and improvise with tools, the result never seems to be good. Will this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem

[fast4d]

Originally Posted by we350z

I've learned by now NOT to try and improvise with tools, the result never seems to be good. Will this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem

yes - IF it's the proper size. yes do remove the steering tie rod first. you might be able to use a universal ball joint tool. you can get a cheap one. I bought a few specific ones for BMW from SIR tools or bavauto or?

the sway bar is the the thin bar that's vetical in your picture. it connects the sway bar to your strut.