Anyone done CV Boot Boot DIY? - Page 2

we350z · #1 11-20-2007, 03:47 PM

OK, then I should be able to do what you did. I have a 2000, but with only 68Kmi. I think my inner boot looks fine. I did only get the outer boot, so I only have one bag of grease. I'll just pick up some more at AutoZone.

So what you are saying is removing the axel from the engine side is way easier than removing the wheel bearing from the axel on the other (wheel hub) side. Also the wheel bearing, if removed should be replaced due to the fact that they do not come with anti-seize on them.

How do I remove the axel from the engine side? Do I need any special tools, or are there any tricks? I would imagine the entire assembly will just slide out towards me then I can pull stuff off the opening on the engine side right? Is there anything to be aware of when putting the axel back in? Does it need to be greased? I had to grease my motorcycle axels when I put them back in.

we350z · #2 11-20-2007, 04:58 PM

So in the DIY i should be able to skip any step that refers to the "swivel bearing", correct? That should be:

Step 1 (Just lift and remove wheel)
Step 4
Step 8
Step 9
Step 21
Step 30

katit · #3 11-21-2007, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by we350z

So in the DIY i should be able to skip any step that refers to the "swivel bearing", correct? That should be:

Step 1 (Just lift and remove wheel)
Step 4
Step 8
Step 9
Step 21
Step 30

Skip #1, #8 and #30. Instead of #8 loose inner boot (big clamp)
In step 9 remove whole deal.

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

we350z · #4 11-21-2007, 01:58 AM

I think DIY guide should be updated since this method seems easier and faster since there are less steps. Also I guess it is just a bad idea to remove the bearing in the first place.

Thanks for the tip on the subframe bolt. That makes sense, I am about to install sub frame spacers on my 300ZX. Supposed to be awesome suspension upgrade and takes 30 mins to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by katit

Skip #1, #8 and #30. Instead of #8 loose inner boot (big clamp)
In step 9 remove whole deal.

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

flyingmachine · #5 12-24-2007, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by katit

Skip #1, #8 and #30. Instead of #8 loose inner boot (big clamp)
In step 9 remove whole deal.

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

will you have enough clearance to tighten the bolts when the car is on the ground? or it requires a lift(4 posts one which lift on the wheels) to accomplish it?

katit · #6 12-24-2007, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingmachine

will you have enough clearance to tighten the bolts when the car is on the ground? or it requires a lift(4 posts one which lift on the wheels) to accomplish it?

I had enough clearance when car was on my scissor lift ramps (3 inches) - I'm sure it could be fine on a ground

we350z · #7 01-15-2008, 02:43 AM

Just getting to this now unfortunately, but I had a question regarding a few things:

Quote:

Originally Posted by katit

In step 9 remove whole deal.

Please elaborate on specifically what you mean by the "whole deal"

Quote:

Originally Posted by katit

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

This is the step I am on right now, can you tell me which bolt you are referring to as the "subframe bolt for lower arm" so you could swing it (#10, wish bone/rear control arm) out. What number is the bolt in this picture? I loostened 12, 13, and 14 per the DIY. I will be sure to tighten and torque them to spec with the vehicle on the ground.

katit · #8 11-21-2007, 12:32 AM

I replaced mine today. What can I say? Good thing I read this post today. Axle is sitting there for good. Usually I use my air hammer to get axles out, this one won't budge. So, I went other way. Undid big clamp on inner boot and slided whole assembly out. Worked like a charm. I have balljoint separator, removing tie rod and arms wasn't a problem.

Finished job under 3 hours. I made some pictures, maybe we can use them to update DIY guide? It's definitely soo much easier. I suggest to get inner boot though. Grease is different from CV Joint boot (I used lithium) and those clamps from Autozone shitty. Next time I will just get inner kit (if there will be next time)

I don't buy boots from a dealer, so they like $10 ea online, no bid deal at all.

we350z · #9 11-21-2007, 01:55 AM

I am happy to hear this post helped you out and your are all set now! 3 hours doesn't sound bad at all.

I'm a little bit confused tho. So you did do the shortcut, right? You had problems pulling the axle or no? I saw the kits on ebay 2/~$30 shipped, but they are not OEM (maybe thats a good thing tho).

I have high temp constant velocity grease that came with my OEM Outer CV Joint replacement kit (it also came with some clamps and stuff). I assumed the inner boot uses the same grease? You are saying this is not the case? I was just going to get some more from AutoZone.

Please clarify

Quote:

Originally Posted by katit

I replaced mine today. What can I say? Good thing I read this post today. Axle is sitting there for good. Usually I use my air hammer to get axles out, this one won't budge. So, I went other way. Undid big clamp on inner boot and slided whole assembly out. Worked like a charm. I have balljoint separator, removing tie rod and arms wasn't a problem.

Finished job under 3 hours. I made some pictures, maybe we can use them to update DIY guide? It's definitely soo much easier. I suggest to get inner boot though. Grease is different from CV Joint boot (I used lithium) and those clamps from Autozone shitty. Next time I will just get inner kit (if there will be next time)

I don't buy boots from a dealer, so they like $10 ea online, no bid deal at all.

katit · #10 11-21-2007, 02:10 AM

Yes, I used shortcut. It's not shortcut per se. It's even longer way of doing it, but it becomes better way to do it just because of the problem removing axle from hub. When you push axle out of bearing, nothing will happen to bearing, but it just sits there so tight that moderate ways didn't help. So, I removed inner joint.

Yes, inner grease different. Seem to be regular lithium versus moli grease in cv joint. I order from Autohausaz.com - boot kits at $10ea and shipping free if you do $50 in parts. I get lots of BMW parts from them, they carry decent quality parts.

There is 2 arms connected to subframe. I had to loose 1 bolt. If you don't have tool to separate ball joints - you may have to remove carrier together with arms. Just start working on it - it will be obvious what I'm talking about here.