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#71
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Diagnostics: 266.000 km on a 2002 car. Having corrected the other typical wear items (suspension arms with play, etc.) and added rear Bilsteins (addressed teh front to rear pitch during driving and bumps), I noticed that the rear suspension would slam over bumps in the road, speed bumps, etc. My car has a manual transmission and even with smooth shifting, it would feel sometimes like a bad rear U-joint. Given the age of teh car and the known endemic wear issues, I bought the bushings and one of the two typical tool sets and replaced them this week. There are two good YouTube videos of this. Car on good jack stands, support differential as you remove the rear suspension bolts on one side. Use the tool as directed, I didn't see that heat was needed (I used a heat gun on one side, no noticeable difference), some penetrating oil was used. Do NOT cut off the exhaust wire support on the muffler. You can temporarily bend it out of the way and then bend it back. Heat helps but it's not necessary. Bushings were bad, metal insert was entirely separated from the rubber. Installation was easy with the tool, I used a very model bit of anti-seize to aid installation but the tool does all of the work. CRITICAL is to ensure you get the bolts back in straight. If they go in well by hand, you're OK. Then torque it up and reinstall everything. Repeat on opposite side. I would suggest that if you own an E53 and they haven't been replaced, and you have noticeable mileage (>100.000 miles / >160.000 km), replace them regardless. I'm certain everyone may want to chime in on "why should a premium car need this". I won't attempt to answer the question of why - but merely deal with reality and the likelihood of our cars. As to what bushing, either OEM (Lemfoerder) or Meyle HD would be recommendation, in fact the molding dimples on the rubber on the Meyle part look quite a bit like the Lemfoerder one. Urethane or similar, not my choice as I want some compliance in the rear (I have Bilstein B6 and the sport rear sway bar which is enough firmness). Bottom line: If you have an E53, just do it. I have a tool set that I bought for this, happy to sell it on to the next user whether in Europe or North America, pm privately.
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2002 Euro X5 (E53) 3.0 diesel (M57) 5 speed manual with UUC short shifter. Pre-xDrive NV125 transfer case (chain & gears). Factory Xenon headlights, Spyder LED tail lights Updated vortex crankcase breather. Motorsport dead pedal, factory fire extinguisher, factory first aid kit, factory F&R mud flaps, factory PDC Bilstein B6 shocks F&R Redline oil has replaced "lifetime" fluids (F&R diff, manual transmission, transfer case and P/S). Dimple magnetic drain plugs in all compartments. |
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#72
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I'm in the middle of installing my poly PSB subframe bushings. For those of you who have poly bushings, how did you seat the metal bushing insert over the locater knub on the front bushing? Mine is big enough to locate but not big enough to completely seat so it leave a couple mm gap between the bottom of the bushing and the bottom plate. Any pictures of installed bushings would be great.
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03 3.0i mt 89 325is |
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#73
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Quote:
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#74
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I figured it out. I busted out my calipers and did some measuring. The PSB inserts were machined about .5mm too small. Not allowing them to fit over the locator knubs. Once I reamed them (only 2) out they were fine. Now they sit perfect and tight. My old bushings were destroyed.
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03 3.0i mt 89 325is |
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#75
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Nice
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2002 BMW X5 4.6is |
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#76
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Perfect! Enjoy that TOIGHT rear end now
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#77
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Oh yup. Can't wait to throw it around in the snow.
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03 3.0i mt 89 325is |
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#78
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Great writeup!
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Dallas |
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