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#131
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![]() E53 '04 x5 3.0 6-speed manual
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#132
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Glad it worked out OK for you.
The wrap and/or heated CCV is addressing the symptoms, not the problem. I think it can help, but there are owners who have had repeat problems after installing the updated parts, so I don't think it is in any way a guarantee of no future problems. The real issue is short trips that don't get the engine hot enough, and which don't give it enough time to boil off the condensation. Suggest you don't warm up the vehicle at idle. Also, if you see smoke under the hood, have a fire extinguisher handy before you open the hood and give it more air. That isn't specific to BMW, it applies to any car. For your X5, the best path forward is to add an inspection of the CCV to your annual maintenance schedule, and get it cleaned out if there is any condensate building up in it.
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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
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#133
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There is much more engine wear during the warm-up cycle than when the engine is hot. By idling it that long, you are simply extending the warm up cycle and causing that much more wear. The least wear is with a quicker warm-up cycle, as the engine doesn't heat up unless it has load on it. When you start the engine, you should wait until you have oil pressure (less than 30 seconds) and then drive off. Drive gently, and keep the rpm reasonable and use a light throttle application until the engine is warm. This presumes that you can see out the windshield; if it is frosted up and you need to wait for heat, that is safer. It just causes more engine wear.
Last edited by mysweetx5; 03-04-2011 at 10:18 PM. |
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#134
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There is much more engine wear during the warm-up cycle than when the engine is hot. By idling it that long, you are simply extending the warm up cycle and causing that much more wear. The least wear is with a quicker warm-up cycle, as the engine doesn't heat up unless it has load on it. When you start the engine, you should wait until you have oil pressure (less than 30 seconds) and then drive off. Drive gently, and keep the rpm reasonable and use a light throttle application until the engine is warm. This presumes that you can see out the windshield; if it is frosted up and you need to wait for heat, that is safer. It just causes more engine wear. If your vehicle feels heavy, it is also due to the steering, suspension, transmission, etc. None of those systems (ie everything other than the engine) are warmed by idling the vehicle.
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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
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#135
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The fix for your engine isn't a heated wrap. You have the 6 cylinder engine (M54). See here: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...under-cpo.html
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#136
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CCV
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While my engine was out I studied the CCV carefully and I believe there are numerous causes of its failure , one the hoses/pipes and valve build up with carbon and sludge from poor quality oil then the oil cant drain back to the pan so it collects in the intake (missfires and oily tail pipes will be noticed) , second is the metal drain pipe on the RH side of the engine cant warm up so the oil wont flow back down , plus the pipe is too small, the valve will fill with cold heavy oil and carbon blocking the crank case vent , if the crank case does not vent then enough pressure will build up in there to push a valve cover gasket outward and oil will run down on an exhaust manifold causing smoke under the hood. Third is a vacuum leak , if there is no vac to the valve it can not keep itself clean . As far as a proper fix I may experiment with removing and plugging off the whole thing and just vent the LH valve cover to the ground with a large diameter hose , there are two reasons why the engine is vented back to the intake , one is for a clean enviroment to be sure all "gases" are burned before they go to the atmosphere , second is so you do not smell the odor in or beside the vehicle , I suppose there could be a slight bit of steam and the odd drip if it were to the ground but big deal ! old 70's cars and trucks were vented this way and today Dodge Cummins/IHC Ford Power Stroke/GMC Duramax and all highway trucks/Ag tractors just vent to the ground. This is only my opinion Dave |
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#137
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is it possible to move oil separator valve to easily reachable location?
While so many X5 owners frustrated with oil separator valve problem and especially pain in a neck job to replace it, I was thinking of making some modification to mount it somewhere easy to reach location within the engine compartment. In this caase, we can not use OEM hoses but we may use oil resistant flexible hoses and attach them to the valve and place it at some place within the engine compartment so that one can easily remove and replace whenever it needed.
Anyone please reply how this idea sounds. Has anyone done such a remedy? ![]() Last edited by hbhavsar; 03-07-2011 at 02:14 PM. |
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#138
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Dave |
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#139
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I had a '63 GMC pickup with a straight six and a road draft tube for a while, just used it to clear some property. I never thought of turning my BMW into a GMC farm truck, but I guess it could be done.
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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
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#140
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unfortunately my CPO ended in 2010
__________________
![]() E53 '04 x5 3.0 6-speed manual
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