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#1
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65-75 mph brake shudder/shimmy issue
Issue: When driving about 65-75 mph on the freeway, the steering wheel shudders and vibrates when I apply the brakes. Model: 2005 4.4 sport with stock 18" tires. I have 107k with new rotors and pads at 100k. Attempted solutions: 1. Replaced tension strut lower bushings with BMW ones. This actually helped a bit, maybe 50% less brake vibration, but the issue is still there. 2. Rotated and balanced tires. No effect. 3. Checked all ball joints for any looseness, none. 4. Next, today I am ordering the upper rubber bushing for the wishbone. Although they appeared pretty tight, I did see cracks around the rubber. I will respond back in a week or two with the results. Stay tuned. |
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#2
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Before you go thru the hassle of changing the bushings try just changing the bolt (#12). I did this a few weeks back as I had the same issue, and it was a bad (almost to the point I felt unsafe) vibration when braking from high speeds. I went to order the bushing(#11) from the stealership and one of the techs (I knew him obviously) told me to try this first as it's a fairly common problem. Just figure for the $6 and change it's worth a shot to try the bolt first. I can't be the only one that this solution works for....lol.
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i Frnt axle support,wishbone/tension strut Here's the diagram for the numbers I referenced.
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#3
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What did the bad bolt look like? Were the threads stripped? Or could it just be a case of proper torquing when you replaced it with a new one?
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Wake up every day that would be a start. |
#4
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And one thing to think of with checking ball sockets is that they often don't show the wear/slack when the vehicle is raised off its wheels as the joint is at a different angle with a different direction of pressure on it. I would think from the description that it very well could be in the control arms and since you're at a higher mileage it wouldn't be ab bad idea to just change the whole control arms and throw in the new bolts while you're doing it.
I recently bought these for my truck, cheaper than my cost at the dealer and quality seems to be good so far. No complaints. Pelican Parts - Product Information: 31-12-6-760-276-M36 Pelican Parts - Product Information: 31-12-6-760-275-M36
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"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is ![]() |
#5
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I had the same issue had the dealer replace the lower tension bushings and 1/2 of the shutter gone. Turned out my less than 1K mile old front rotors were warped. Replaced them and have been shutter free for 2K miles.
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04 BMW 3.0i X5 on 22" 04 M3 6spd |
#6
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Also worth checking the calipers to see if one is sticking ...that was what caused a 55-65 shudder for me.
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#7
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Quote:
Pics of said bolt to come.
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#8
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rotors are not warped, waiting for bushings
I checked both front rotors and they have less than .001" differenced when they are rotated 360 degrees. I have ordered the wishbone strut bushings and will install them next. keep tuned...
I have searched and read all the posts about this issue. I plan to solve this dilema and post the solution. Issue: When driving about 65-75 mph on the freeway, the steering wheel shudders and vibrates when I apply the brakes. Model: 2005 4.4 sport with stock 18" tires. I have 107k with new rotors and pads at 100k. Attempted solutions: 1. Replaced tension strut lower bushings with BMW ones. This actually helped a bit, maybe 50% less brake vibration, but the issue is still there. 2. Rotated and balanced tires. No effect. 3. Checked all ball joints for any looseness, none. 4. Next, today I am ordering the upper rubber bushing for the wishbone. Although they appeared pretty tight, I did see cracks around the rubber. I will respond back in a week or two with the results. Stay tuned. |
#9
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I too had the brake shudder issue when braking around 70mph last week. When I finally got back to NY, mechanic said it could be a warped rotor. After he checked it out, ended up that I needed new control arms. Mechanic replaced both control arms/bushings/ball joints. I also had my rear bumper painted and now the X5 is solid! All done for $900 bucks paid in cash.
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#10
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had a similar situation in my Z4,
if it appears only during braking, it's likely limited to the brake components. even if you have new rotors and pads, improper bedding in can lead to warped discs. |
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