Vacuum Pump / Brake Booster Pump O-ring replacement

[SlickGT1]

Glad I found this thread. Gives me a few more places to watch out for looking for my leak.

[garrett.fell]

I had a little oil in my pump when I took it apart to replace the o-ring on the cover. I assume you need a little oil in there to seal everything up so it can pull vacuum?


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[Doru]

About a month or so ago, I changed all the seals, VCG & valve stem seals (vacuum pump seals were also changed).
the car was smoking badly. The spark plugs were not fouled at all when I pulled them out. The car was using about 1qt oil/400 or 500 Km (250-300 miles).
Vacuum leaks exacerbates the oil burning issue, but curing them, don't fix it (N62), just alleviates the problem a bit.

After I did the whole work, the smoking issue stopped right away. And so far, I haven't added any additional oil either.
Another issue I had before, was: the oil level was fluctuating badly when trying to check it. It would show different readings on different days, after the car was sitting, and without moving it. This sounds bizarre, but it's the truth. For the last month, the oil level is consistent (a first for my car - I purchased it used, and with the problem)

If you haven't changed the original seals, as much as you don't want to do them, they're probably at fault. The myth goes they last max 60 k miles, after which they give up the ghost. They have a bad rubber, and a bad inside design, as opposed to the Elring Klinger ones. Don't wait until you start having also valve guides issues. My 0.02

[McDonaldD]

Two cents:

Reinstalling the Vacuum pump: Easiest way I've found to reinstall the brake-booster vacuum pump is to open the oil-fill cap and use a long thin screwdriver to guide the vacuum pump's flap into the slot on the camshaft.

An Oil Leak that looks like its coming from the vacuum pump but its not: There is an oil sensor (pressure or temp, can't remember) that can fail in a way which allows oil to leak through the sensor, not around it. Its a $28 dollar part directly from a dealer - a cheap and easy fix: it can be swapped out after the airbox/intake plastic is out of the way.

I have replaced the every seal from the valve covers up and, while I fixed my blue smoke issue long ago, I still have some oil consumption through my PCV and into my intake - may be normal but I am OCD about my cars. The worst part is that, just off idle, I can hear the faint whistle of an intake leak - I know its not the whine of an alternator.

Production on my 2015 F15 35d started today. After it arrives, I may take the time to finally find that intake leak. I'll likely pass down my e53 as it is still an amazing car, one of my favorites.

[McDonaldD]

Sorry, replying without reading much of the work history: before you try anything else:
1.) replace the oil filler cap and the o-rings on your dipstick.
2.) an oil change using BMW's new recommendation of 0-40W, which goes against the 5-30W recommendation in the manual.

Based on what I've read of your history:
3.) Vanos solenoids mount through the timing covers and can be replaced without much effort (each solenoid is held in place by one small hex bolt and metal clip, remove the clip and wire - pull the solenoid head outward. I was careful and seated the head of screwdriver on a non-sealing surface of the solenoid and then levered each one out. I have done this many times, helping others and such, and seems to be the easiest way. You only need to get the solenoid to "release" and then it can easily be removed - they're about 6" long.
4 - 11367546379 O-ring - VANOS - Small (Green) Size: 21,29X1,78 $1.85
4 - 11367513222 O-ring - VANOS - Large (Green)Size: 35X4,0 $2.08

4.) Throttle body gaskets

5.) Intake Manifold gaskets - Both gaskets, like ~$12 each but would like resolve your issue by just replacing the intake manifold gaskets

6.) Timing Covers and Valve Covers - The big job - takes 2-3 days - if you know what you're doing

My job eventually encompassed the entire top sealing surfaces of the engine - Both valve cover gaskets, both upper timing cover gaskets, vanos gaskets, throttle body, and the intake manifold (fills with oil). But, because it was convenient, I rebuilt the the coolant system: water pump, thermostat, coolant hoses; replaced the drive belts, belt tensioners, idler pulleys; replaced the spark plugs; and changed the oil. Obviously, a lot of this stuff is unrelated to the blue smoke...but you’d basically have to do the job over again if one of these parts were to fail in a few weeks, months, or years.

The timing cover gaskets cannot be swapped out by themselves because its top rim is part of each valve cover's sealing surface - it needs to be done at the same time as the valve covers.

1 - 11147506424 Gasket Steel - Passenger Side Upper Timing Cover $12.02
1 - 11147506425 Gasket Steel - Driver's Side Upper Timing Cover $12.02
(1 - 11667509080 O-ring - Vacuum Pump - Passenger Side ~$4.52 - you've done this one)

Valve Covers

1 - 11127513195 BMW Gasket set, cylinder head cover ZYL. 5-8
1 - 11127513194 BMW Gasket set, cylinder head cover ZYL. 1-4
4 - 12141748398 O-Ring for Camshaft Position Sensors Size:17X3 ~$1.20
2 - 11127518420 sealing - Eccentric Sensor Gasket ~$5.69
1 - 11128507153 (if leaking - likely, yes) Cover lid - Oil Fill Cap ~$7.78
6 - 11367507729 (Optional - I had 1 fail)O-ring - non-return Valve 9,5X2,5MM $2.92
8 - 11127570219 (Required if cracked/damaged) Spark plug tube $27.00/ea

[McDonaldD]

Also, check the simple things that may resolve the issue:

1. Make sure your intake system is sealed properly: ensure that the intake hose clamps are fitted and tight; all vacuum hoses are seated and unworn; your air filter is clean, unplugged, tear free, and seated properly; and make sure the filter box lid seals.

2. Check your mass airflow sensor for proper operation. If this sensor is reading incorrectly, it could cause a vacuum leak-like situation.

[jcp240z]

Looking at your test results of pressure have you considered replacing the CCV. If they are not maintaining correct pressure that causes all sorts of oil issues. A test is to put a pressure gauge on oil dip stick (remove it first) to record the running crankcase pressures. Your CCVs are much easier to replace than mine.

[Doru]

You don't need the oil drain plug washers. They come with every oil filter you buy.

Also, why do you need a new oil filler cap? Is the gasket bad?

Also, if you do the 1st time your oil change, I would suggest getting the screw plug for the oil filter element p/n 11427518083 (The O-ring also comes with a new oil filter)

[Johnny_5]

Looking for this rebuild kit but cant seem to find it on ebay other than out of state and BMP wants $15 for shipping bringing it up to $30 for the O-rings. Im not paying that much for two seals!

crwarren you stated you picked up a set but I cant seem to find them on that site either. Any info on where to get this would be great for a reasonable price.

[garrett.fell]

Yup. Just like this. Roll the alternator over to the side and the bolt is hiding down there.


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