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  #11401  
Old 09-28-2019, 02:52 AM
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The 3.0 has been in storage for a while, got it out so I can get my daily fixed after someone backed into it.

Put a new battery in and started it, it would catch then die. Unplugged the MAF and it ran rough, so replaced the MAF.

Now it ran but CEL still on with a P0301 so switched coils and the problem moved so I got a new coil.

Finally the CEL is off and engine is smooth again!

I missed the X, lots smoother than the Subaru I am running for fun nowadays, lots slower though lol!
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  #11402  
Old 09-28-2019, 06:54 AM
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Woke up to find my driver side door not unlocking anymore :smh
Spent some time with a wire hanger to try and pop the lock without any success.
Ordered the actuator and carrier assembly and am now planning to take off the door panel to see if I can unlatch it manually
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  #11403  
Old 09-28-2019, 09:12 AM
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Look at my actuator repair thread. I show in there how to manually disengage the secondary lock. If the motor dies on the secondary you will not be able to open the door. If you can get the door panel off you could move the secondary lock manually and open the door.

Caveat: If the secondary lock motor works only in the lock direction, you'll lock yourself out again if you lock the door from outside.

PS: actuators die when the $6 motor inside fails. I've repaired four of them now between wife and my car for about $6 per door vs $230 per OEM actuator.
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  #11404  
Old 09-28-2019, 10:05 AM
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I think that is exactly what happened. I used the key to lock the door manually since the battery in the remote is dead.
I will search for your thread. I am just not looking forward to manhandle the door panel with the door being shut
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  #11405  
Old 09-28-2019, 10:07 AM
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This is thread that gave me so much hope but unfortunately I got nowhere trying that method
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-fix-pics.html
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  #11406  
Old 09-28-2019, 10:11 AM
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Actually I thought there is a manual override for the secondary lock. Did you turn the key the full 90? Normal operation with motors only takes 60 twist it takes like 5x the effort to turn the final 30


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  #11407  
Old 09-28-2019, 01:02 PM
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Yes, the key moves to the 90 deg rather easily. And of I keep it there for a few seconds it rolls down all windows too.
But the lock pin still doesn't pop up
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  #11408  
Old 09-29-2019, 01:33 PM
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You may have an actual broken part, I thought there was a mechanical link to the secondary lock.

I've seen cases where the lock gets out of sync and I would try the escape hatch process.

Go in the car climb into driver spot.

Roll down driver window.

Put key Into the driver door lock lock it twice. The clown nose should blink fast to indicate the motion alarm is deactivated

Now try any door handle they should all dry fire and do nothing.

To exit a car that is double locked you have to hold the central lock button at the same time as pulling the door handle .

Try it a bunch of times. The motor may just be weak. When they fail they usually still work once in a while.

Once you get it out look at my repair guide. You can replace the brushes from a new motor in abiut an hour for about $12 for both main and secondary lock.
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  #11409  
Old 09-29-2019, 04:12 PM
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What did you do to / for your E53 today??

Not sure if my little BT adapter drained it, but it was plugged in and flashing. The car hadn't moved since wed. Wife went out to go someplace and the door wouldn't even open.
Manually unlocked went in. Wouldn't even click. Just dead as a door post.
Read 12.3v at the engine bay tho. Hmmm

Told her to jump in the M3, right before she left, had her pull up and jump it. Very dead battery, had her sit a minute. Then tried again. It started. Christmas tree on the dash. Wow.

Sent her on the way and go on the interwebz and put an order in for a Bosch unit at PepBoys and had her go pick it up. Then started clearing codes while it idled. Could not clear a CAN error to the transfer case. Very weird.

I read 12.4v on the old unit. It was a bit swollen. Just a tad. Couldn't find the date on it.
The new battery. 12.3v. Hmmm. Anyway, swapped it out and it cranked right up. No lights on the dash. To include the tpms light that I've been unable to reset for the 2 years I've owned this damn 4.8
Covered over 50 miles and no lights have returned.
Dunno what that's all about, but I'll take it.


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  #11410  
Old 09-29-2019, 05:18 PM
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Completed a complete cooling sytem overhaul. Waterpump, t-stat/housing hoses, radiator, trans cooler t-stat, surge tank, shroud, fan and fan clutch. Not to mention new coolant.
Also relamped with LED the entire cabin and doors, love the look, was all yellow, now clean white light.

Not entirely happy with new fan clutch, shaft is too short and brings the fan too far back.
Looking for a correct match.
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