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  #13161  
Old 02-08-2021, 12:00 PM
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No one welds rims up over there?
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  #13162  
Old 02-08-2021, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post
No one welds rims up over there?
There is one place but for some odd reason they're always busy....

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  #13163  
Old 02-08-2021, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
There is one place but for some odd reason they're always busy....

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JB Weld will seal a crack but on the edge like that you'd need a weld for a permanent fix for strength.

Maybe convert the wheel into a spare get it into the long queue at the place
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  #13164  
Old 02-08-2021, 01:45 PM
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I have no problems running welded rims.
I think all 4 are welded on my E36M3, some have 2, but I live in Michigan, your roads are MUCH better
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  #13165  
Old 02-08-2021, 07:43 PM
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I wouldn't do anything other than have it professionally repaired.
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  #13166  
Old 02-08-2021, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
I wouldn't do anything other than have it professionally repaired.
I agree but the last set I killed actually pushed the "spokes" in and knocked a hand sized section loose between the beads so I do worry about welds done in shall we say less than professional locations....

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  #13167  
Old 02-09-2021, 10:39 PM
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... Transmission (still) working smoothly - although the 2-1 slam is very pronounced. I've reset the adaptations and tomorrow I'll find a decent section of road and run through the adaptation procedure. ...
So after driving out to the location where I was going to reset the adaptations (again) and then perform the ZF prescribed adaptation routine, I was so impressed with the transmission's shift operation that I decided not to do it.

Each time I drive the car, the shift operation improves and it's now operating near perfectly!

I understand the need for the ZF adaptation routine, if you are a service provider working on a customers car and need to return the vehicle to the customer with the adaptation routine completed - but for us DIY-types, I'd suggest it's not actually required - just drive it normally and it'll sort itself, over time. And not much time, either.

I'm very happy to have done this simple (sic) service routine!
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  #13168  
Old 02-09-2021, 11:08 PM
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Hi Wayne , travis here from down in invercargill.

What's this transmission reset you speak of..??

Is it the one where you turn the key on, press down the accelerator for 30 sec..??

Or is it something else..??...I occasionally have a hard shift between 1st and 2nd.

Cheers

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  #13169  
Old 02-09-2021, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kiwis.4.8i View Post
Hi Wayne , travis here from down in invercargill.

What's this transmission reset you speak of..??

Is it the one where you turn the key on, press down the accelerator for 30 sec..??

Or is it something else..??...I occasionally have a hard shift between 1st and 2nd.

Cheers
Hey Travis,

OK - firstly, the "press the accelerator down for 30secs" thing is an urban myth - it does nothing, or at best forces the transmission into one of the more aggressive shift patterns, which tend to mask the 2-1 slam. This makes you think it did something - but it really didn't.

The control module (EGS) on the ZF 6HP26X transmission can "learn" to shift cleanly as the transmission ages and wears. This process is called "adaptation".

These adaptations can be cleared from the EGS via suitable BMW software or hardware scanners - INPA, ISTA-D, DIS, BMW-Scanner, Foxwell etc.

Clearing of these adaptations needs to be done if you perform any maint. on the transmission that will change the shift performance. And a simple fluid/filter change is not such a process - normally.

I've just changed the internal seals that connect the mechatronic body to the transmission's fluid pump and clutches etc. This will change the fluid pressures being applied to the clutches, changing the shift performance, so an adaptation clear is called for. This then allows the EGS to "learn" the new shift pressures etc.

Simply clearing the adaptations won't fix anything - the transmission will re-adjust itself back to the old behavior pretty quickly (since nothing has changed) and in fact it will likely perform poorly until it does so.

If your transmission has a 2-1 slam (and it seems they mostly do eventually) then it needs proper maint. I wish it wasn't so but there's no getting around that. That maint. might be simple or it might be more involved (and costly) so proper diagnosis is also important.

I figured $350 to replace the seals (which at 250,000km and 16 years were going to be in need of replacing) was worth it as part of my "diagnosis".

So far, it seems to have worked out well....
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Last edited by wpoll; 02-10-2021 at 03:28 PM.
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  #13170  
Old 02-09-2021, 11:51 PM
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About a month ago the red brake indicator appeared along with the CHECK BRAKE LININGS on the display.

Replaced front and rear pads and front and rear sensors. The display message is no more though the red brake indicator is still illuminated.

When should I expect the red brake indicator to extinguish?

TIA
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