What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

UV light is still the worst enemy on polycarbonate or acrylic. Either use polishing compound and then sealer like Nanolex Si3D Headlight (won't grind the worst imperfections but the factory coating stays mostly intact). Or sand them thru the factory coating and then 2K clearcoat with plastic base.

I've read mixed reviews on the quality of those SprayMax products. I think this is better but don't know the availabity in the US. CLICK

It's available in the US, but the best price I found is $362 plus $114 shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/32469962141...Bk9SR-6dhKXmYA

It may be better, but not $450 better.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Their loss.

The point is that most people won't have their current car in 5 years, so it's silly not to do something easy that will make their probable lifetime with the car better, based on some largely irrelevant fear of the future.

Edit: Also, most people probably shouldn't be handling isocyanates anyway.

[sandbagger]

its really not that hard, sand with 600 or at most 800, then clear with a rattle can of this stuff, spraymax 2K clear, its a high UV clear, and my headlights still look great 8yrs later
No polishing needed at all
https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinis...2997767&sr=8-2

[Aleman]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

It's available in the US, but the best price I found is $362 plus $114 shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/32469962141...Bk9SR-6dhKXmYA

It may be better, but not $450 better.

That kit is crazy expensive. I've used the $20 Sylvania kit on several cars over the years, and it works great! Used this kit on my MINI about 5 years ago, and the lights still look great. It's always parked outside in full sun. Just be sure to follow the directions to a 'T', and count on about 30-45 minutes of work on each light.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Head.../dp/B00429NKWK
Here's a before/after on my sister-in-law's Civic:

[X5only]

Key locked in trunk - car was locked and opened only the trunk with the trunk button on the key, accidentally dropped the key in the trunk, closed the trunk and, lo and behold, locked out . Called a professional locksmith and within 5 minutes he unlocked the door. Pure magic. How? He slid in a special little air wedge from the side of the door 3/4ths to the top, slowly inflated it and the door gap slowly expanded. He got enough gap to slide in a stiff wire with a hook at the tip and pulled at the interior door handle, meanwhile the alarm screamed like hell. Wow, didn't realize metal body can flex that much. No signs the door was opened this way. Windows and door functions as before. No gaps left. Very clever but set me back $250. It was an emergency since I was out of town. I believe this locksmith could open any locked car with that trick!

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by X5only

Key locked in trunk - car was locked and opened only the trunk with the trunk button on the key, accidentally dropped the key in the trunk, closed the trunk and, lo and behold, locked out

The very scenario why I always said my wife to unlock the vehicle before opening the trunk with remote. So it seems this could actually happen in real life.

[X5only]

I just looked in Amazon and saw those car-unlock toolkits with air wedge- so cheap for $30 or so and they look similar to what the locksmith used. I'm buying one for emergencies although it wouldn't have helped me when out of town.

[syncrocrick]

Went back to Pick'N Pull today to get more parts for my X5.

Got lucky and scored a factory Westfalia hitch for $40.

Also got a rear tonneau cover in the right color (black), a subwoofer and a bunch of other parts.

[sandbagger]

Originally Posted by X5only

I just looked in Amazon and saw those car-unlock toolkits with air wedge- so cheap for $30 or so and they look similar to what the locksmith used. I'm buying one for emergencies although it wouldn't have helped me when out of town.

I would check the door to door alignment and to the roof when you have a few minutes. compare to the other side too. Some times they can deflect the upper door frame enough to permanently set it(bend outward).
I would say check the door seal gaps, but that is a huge process. if it is bent outward, you can actually bend it back inward putting a piece of wood (as to not scratch the paint) at the belt line and then push the top corner of the door in. Its actually done this way in the factory, yes really.

[X5only]

Originally Posted by sandbagger

I would check the door to door alignment and to the roof when you have a few minutes. compare to the other side too. Some times they can deflect the upper door frame enough to permanently set it(bend outward).
I would say check the door seal gaps, but that is a huge process. if it is bent outward, you can actually bend it back inward putting a piece of wood (as to not scratch the paint) at the belt line and then push the top corner of the door in. Its actually done this way in the factory, yes really.

All seems well to the naked eye, but thanks for the heads up, appreciate it. From youtube videos of the kits, this seems to be the default technique for opening doors of locked cars.