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  #3891  
Old 06-10-2014, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
At least it's not a "Made in China part. That's the point of why I did the repair this way.

Up to 100k miles EVERY repair was done by BMW, the next 80k EVERY repair has been done by me using OEM or better parts. The last 2 repairs I did, parts were Meyle waterpump (from Bavauto) and a coilpack (from Classic BMW), both parts were made in China. I've lost ALL faith in the quality of OEM and so-called "German" suppliers, like Meyle.

'merican fixes are the norm from here on!

As stated prior, I had planned on an "all in" rebuild of the X at 200k miles (about 1.5 yrs away), I REFUSE to do it when the OEM and German suppliers are producing parts in China. I will drive the X until it "shit the bed" then sell it for scrap!

I like it!

I'll take one, how much??

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  #3892  
Old 06-10-2014, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
I like it!

I'll take one, how much??

PM me your address and I will send you one for shipping cost! No charge for the part.
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  #3893  
Old 06-11-2014, 06:33 AM
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TiAg you should have been a true master plumber and sweated those fittings in place LoL
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  #3894  
Old 06-11-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
TiAg you should have been a true master plumber and sweated those fittings in place LoL


The propane torch was empty.
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  #3895  
Old 06-11-2014, 11:21 AM
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Changed the front and rear diff fluids, cleaned the steel pan and replaced the torque to yield bolts. Thanks to a fellow X5 owner, we did the job without any challenges or busted knuckles. Easy job have lots of sockets, extensions, flex handle ratchets, and box-end wrenches (16mm).

Takes longer to get the front two bolts and nuts off the plate then it does to clean, drain, refill and rebolt everything back again.

Used the old stand by fluid pump from Lincoln Model 615 to push in the new clean stuff. Makes this job easy.
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  #3896  
Old 06-11-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
PM me your address and I will send you one for shipping cost! No charge for the part.

Good deal!!

:P

Broke another windshield yesterday. Damn Az rocks everywhere.

I love 0 deductible glass!

Hopefully I get the comfort glass I asked for this time. Called Safelite directly this time, we'll see what happens.
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  #3897  
Old 06-11-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhordmclain View Post
Not an urgent item. Just add this to your things to do / keep this in your radar:

- Brake Fluid
- Engine Air Filter
- BMW Coolant / Anti-Freeze
- Consider replacing the OE expansion tank + cap + upper radiator hose + temperature sensor (lower radiator hose)
- Consider replacing you AT Filter + gasket + various nuts/screws/washers as well. (you just did the AT fluid only)
- Be prepared for OE Door Carrier (driver side), Window Regulator Clip, OE Blower Resistor, Battery, OE Oil Separator+hoses (upgrade to Cold Weather)
- Inspect you CV boots (since will do PM to your suspension)
- Inspect Belts (serpentine and AC)
- Inspect Various Pulleys and tensioners
- Inspect Various Pumps (OE Water Pump, OE Power Steering, OE Fuel and Fuel Filter)
- Inspect Thermostat, OE Fan Clutch for leaks
ATF was flushed with filter, gasket and hardware change.
There are other stuff need to be looked after but for belts / tensioners / cooling system was replaced a year ago by previous owner.

My next first to do is tension strut, and control arm to get rid of this vibration and clunking from front.
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  #3898  
Old 06-11-2014, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white46 View Post
ATF was flushed with filter, gasket and hardware change.
There are other stuff need to be looked after but for belts / tensioners / cooling system was replaced a year ago by previous owner.

My next first to do is tension strut, and control arm to get rid of this vibration and clunking from front.
If the ball joints are good replace the CABs with Powerflex, these have a greased stainless sleeve that floats in the poly bush. Those OE/OEM rubber bushes with mostly air-viod suck, and tear because they stress the rubber when arm moves up/down.

The job will cost around $100, or free if you buy the full CAB/Swaybar/Subframe set and get the discount, that's what I did.
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  #3899  
Old 06-11-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
TiAg you should have been a true master plumber and sweated those fittings in place LoL
I would have bent the tubing and eliminate all the compression fittings. Sweating copper fittings only add to the final cost of the repair. Just more places for the piece to fail.

Is that a HF hyraulic puller that is made in CHINA?

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  #3900  
Old 06-11-2014, 03:13 PM
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As well as HF jack stands Made in Cheena LOL
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