Dead 2004 X5 4.8is...

[Roadhouse]

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

Yes, I was confused too.

I didn't mean to imply he had similar symptoms. Mainly I just wanted to show you your options vs paying $1600. Does that price include the alternator?

So, you could attempt buying and replacing the complete alternator yourself.

Or, if its just the voltage regulator, replace/rebuild it yourself.

I get it... now

$1600 includes alternator and BMW dealer to fit.

Sound all reasonably simple, and might give it a go myself. Just gotta get the parts...

[Roadhouse]

Hmmm, parts hard to come by over here... Looked and found a coupel of websites only. One was $919 for a new alternator (genuine), the other was POA. I guess if it does cost $1000 and I do it, I am saving $600...

Maybe an international seller? Any reputable places that ship to OZ? I will check it out but if anyone has a recommendation, that would be great.

[upallnight]

If the dealer told you that it is not putting out the amps, in most cases it is probably the voltage regulator. Replacing the voltage regulator is a lot cheaper then the entire alternator. Labor will still be the same or another 30 minutes added to swap out the voltage regulator versus throwing in a new alternator.

Isn't there a starter alternator repair/rebuild shop in OZ?

[Roadhouse]

Originally Posted by upallnight

If the dealer told you that it is not putting out the amps, in most cases it is probably the voltage regulator. Replacing the voltage regulator is a lot cheaper then the entire alternator. Labor will still be the same or another 30 minutes added to swap out the voltage regulator versus throwing in a new alternator.

Isn't there a starter alternator repair/rebuild shop in OZ?

Yeah was chatting to a mate tonight and he said the same thing. I know a shop not too far away from my place and will see what they can do. Will def be a cheaper alternative.

[SlickGT1]

Yes, take it to a local alt, started rebuild shop. Have them test it and confirm. Even though our issues are different, maybe, the voltage regulator is easy to do. Removing the Alt is also very very easy on our engines. Even if you have to remove it a few times, it is very easy.

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Yes, take it to a local alt, started rebuild shop. Have them test it and confirm. Even though our issues are different, maybe, the voltage regulator is easy to do. Removing the Alt is also very very easy on our engines. Even if you have to remove it a few times, it is very easy.

Says the man who actually did it.

People like us who haven't will be like .... yeah, riiiiight.

So, Dennis, did you rebuild only the regulator?

[SlickGT1]

Yea, but if you think about it, there is really not much else to rebuild. The bearings were fine. It spun smooth, and nothing to catch. The coils inside looked good. I cleaned it up with brake clean, and replaced regulator. I should have rebuilt regulator, but replacing it was easier, so I went that route for first attempt.

It really is very easy to take out. Hardest part is wiggling it out, and then holding in one hand while removing the power lead from it. Other than that, straight forward, decently clean job.

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Yea, but if you think about it, there is really not much else to rebuild. The bearings were fine. It spun smooth, and nothing to catch. The coils inside looked good. I cleaned it up with brake clean, and replaced regulator. I should have rebuilt regulator, but replacing it was easier, so I went that route for first attempt.

It really is very easy to take out. Hardest part is wiggling it out, and then holding in one hand while removing the power lead from it. Other than that, straight forward, decently clean job.

Now I got it. You just replaced the regulator.

[Roadhouse]

ok saga continues...

BMW diagosed a bum alternator, but I had my doubts given my symptoms. Chatted with a "euro car specialist" and he reckons my symptoms point to a dodgy general/basic module.

Given this is a cheaper part to replace than the alternator (can't find anyone to repair the alt), I might head down this path first.

My question is - if I buy a module, must I get coding done? Have searched around but can't really find much info but have seen some off the cuff comments about needing to get coding done if replacing the module.

Can anyone shed some light?

Cheers

[upallnight]

Diagnosing the problem and chatting with a "Euro Car Specialist" are two different things, same as posting on this board. I'm assuming the dealer actually saw the car and connected some instrument to come to their conclusion. We and a chat with a "Euro Car Specialist" can only make assumptions base on what you told us. The obvious solution is if you put a new fully charged battery back into the X does it starts and run?

If the car runs and start with a new battery, the problem is most like a bad alternator that is not charging the battery.