control arm bushings?

[ylwjacket]

Thanks. I have 175k miles, and I don't think this has been done before (possible under CPO warranty, but I don't remember it). So, with 175 on the clock, probably safer to do them with everything else.

Thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Plus one on the do everything at 100K+ if it was not completed before.

Replace the ball joints when doing the thrust arms they are only $25. One trick that has worked is to leave the thrust arm attached, remove the mounting bolts from the joints and smack the arm down with a BFH. Out pops the tapered ball joint on the 3rd hit. (Spray everything with PB Blaster or WD-40 before hand). Some of the joints pop out with a smack on the top of the joint while still in the spindle/upright.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Plus one on the do everything at 100K+ if it was not completed before.

Replace the ball joints when doing the thrust arms they are only $25. One trick that has worked is to leave the thrust arm attached, remove the mounting bolts from the joints and smack the arm down with a BFH. Out pops the tapered ball joint on the 3rd hit. (Spray everything with PB Blaster or WD-40 before hand). Some of the joints pop out with a smack on the top of the joint while still in the spindle/upright.

I'll second the above. Though mine did not come out on the third hit. More like the 30th with a 5lb mini sledge. And that was after many hours wrestling with it in conventional manners. But glad I did them.

[bcredliner]

I always consider the labor cost of my time when doing repairs as I could be doing something else that saves or makes money. For that reason I view it as more cost effective to purchase the entire arm rather than just the bushing. And in cases like when a suspension part wears out after 75,000 miles it is likely the rest of the suspension is in poor condition so rather than tear it down several times it is a good plan to purchase a suspension rebuild kit. That will save labor hours and any worn parts won't be causing premature wear on the replaced parts.

[stiubhartach]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

I always consider the labor cost of my time when doing repairs as I could be doing something else that saves or makes money. For that reason I view it as more cost effective to purchase the entire arm rather than just the bushing. And in cases like when a suspension part wears out after 75,000 miles it is likely the rest of the suspension is in poor condition so rather than tear it down several times it is a good plan to purchase a suspension rebuild kit. That will save labor hours and any worn parts won't be causing premature wear on the replaced parts.

I agree with all these points. Just replace the whole arm. It’s easier and cheaper.

[Fifty150hs]

I replaced mine with Powerflex. Lifetime guarantee. I used a sawzall to make cuts in the bushings so they could be collapsed and removed. Took a little while, but I didn't have to take them to a machine shop to be pressed out or buy a press.

[BMSman]

Easy job with a 20 ton hydraulic press. Check craigslist, I paid $50 for mine.