control arm bushings?

[ylwjacket]

Thanks. I have 175k miles, and I don't think this has been done before (possible under CPO warranty, but I don't remember it). So, with 175 on the clock, probably safer to do them with everything else.

Thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Plus one on the do everything at 100K+ if it was not completed before.

Replace the ball joints when doing the thrust arms they are only $25. One trick that has worked is to leave the thrust arm attached, remove the mounting bolts from the joints and smack the arm down with a BFH. Out pops the tapered ball joint on the 3rd hit. (Spray everything with PB Blaster or WD-40 before hand). Some of the joints pop out with a smack on the top of the joint while still in the spindle/upright.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Plus one on the do everything at 100K+ if it was not completed before.

Replace the ball joints when doing the thrust arms they are only $25. One trick that has worked is to leave the thrust arm attached, remove the mounting bolts from the joints and smack the arm down with a BFH. Out pops the tapered ball joint on the 3rd hit. (Spray everything with PB Blaster or WD-40 before hand). Some of the joints pop out with a smack on the top of the joint while still in the spindle/upright.

I'll second the above. Though mine did not come out on the third hit. More like the 30th with a 5lb mini sledge. And that was after many hours wrestling with it in conventional manners. But glad I did them.

[Maruzo]

Originally Posted by upallnight

You can unbolt the ball joint from the steering knuckle and replace it at the same time you replace the tension strut, or you can get a real ball joint separator (not a pickle fork) and separate the ball joint from the tension strut.

Does it make sense to buy just the bushing if I want to refresh the tension strut?

I have an 03 4.6is and when I replaced the ball joints last month I found the bushings on the strut were easily twisting when I maneuver the other end of the strut.

Also does anyone know what the Lemforder or Meyle part number would be for the tension strut bushing?

Last question: how do I remove the old bushing?

Btw saw this on the fcpeuro site: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...vD_BwE#fitment

Does this work for the oem tension strut?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Maruzo

… Last question: how do I remove the old bushing? ...

You need a device colloquially known as a BFP - a Big F...ing Press....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpa9RJ7iEfQ

[Lamby]

As Wpoll says, the bigger the press the better. My guys pressed it out with a 20 ton press and was done in about 5 mins more faffing setting it up, they pressed them out in seconds. I would say, if you want to do it yourself, please please... be aware about the stresses and tensions that you are applying on the metals. Be safe and where protective clothing.

I have seen people use a Mapp Gas Blow Touch, BFH and large socket and beat the hell out of it on a vice. Again.. not sure this is really the way forward.

To reinstall new bushes, will require press again unless, you went for a Powerflex or similar poly bush.

Hope that helps.

[bcredliner]

I always consider the labor cost of my time when doing repairs as I could be doing something else that saves or makes money. For that reason I view it as more cost effective to purchase the entire arm rather than just the bushing. And in cases like when a suspension part wears out after 75,000 miles it is likely the rest of the suspension is in poor condition so rather than tear it down several times it is a good plan to purchase a suspension rebuild kit. That will save labor hours and any worn parts won't be causing premature wear on the replaced parts.

[Fifty150hs]

I replaced mine with Powerflex. Lifetime guarantee. I used a sawzall to make cuts in the bushings so they could be collapsed and removed. Took a little while, but I didn't have to take them to a machine shop to be pressed out or buy a press.

[BMSman]

Easy job with a 20 ton hydraulic press. Check craigslist, I paid $50 for mine.

[stiubhartach]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

I always consider the labor cost of my time when doing repairs as I could be doing something else that saves or makes money. For that reason I view it as more cost effective to purchase the entire arm rather than just the bushing. And in cases like when a suspension part wears out after 75,000 miles it is likely the rest of the suspension is in poor condition so rather than tear it down several times it is a good plan to purchase a suspension rebuild kit. That will save labor hours and any worn parts won't be causing premature wear on the replaced parts.

I agree with all these points. Just replace the whole arm. It’s easier and cheaper.