DSC, ABS, and brake light on highway

[Cisc0]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

like the humming of a WWII bomber plane as soon as I hit 40 mph, and above.

Not to mention the vibrations I get from it too, you literally can see my passenger seat shaking if no one is sitting in it.

Yeah my Pass seat shakes sometimes. I guess mine are f*cked also.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Cisc0

Yeah my Pass seat shakes sometimes. I guess mine are f*cked also.

if I am above 40 mph and take a decent right handed turn the noise goes away (weight gets loaded on the left side so when the right bearing on the front is unloaded it quiets down), so that's a tell tale sign its front right.


how do you know yours is in the rear?

[Ricky Bobby]

UPDATE:

All 3 lights on, yellow, at the same time again this morning on the highway, just cruising at normal highway speed. I am due to get scanned again with GT1 but gosh I'm really just thinking about getting ABS Module repaired since the intermittent nature of this being on one day, and off the next has me pointed to module problem.

If it was bad wheel sensor wouldn't the lights come on and stay on?

[Big "J"]

I'm having the same problem brother! I replaced the module earlier this month and have the same issue. All theerror codes reference "voltage supply" so, I'm thinking its my alternator going bad after one year. I'm going to check the voltage at the battery at lunch to confirm. Ugh... this sucks!

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Big "J"

I'm having the same problem brother! I replaced the module earlier this month and have the same issue. All theerror codes reference "voltage supply" so, I'm thinking its my alternator going bad after one year. I'm going to check the voltage at the battery at lunch to confirm. Ugh... this sucks!

Ahhh Big J that sucks! Did you run your OBC test 9 I think which tests voltage? I was thinking alternator too but I don't really have any other problems with the car electrical wise?

[Big "J"]

No, I haven't tried to unlock it yet...I'll get them from Slick's sig and see what I can find.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Big "J"

No, I haven't tried to unlock it yet...I'll get them from Slick's sig and see what I can find.

I need to unlock mine and check my voltage too but I need to get the cluster repaired as I'm missing a few pixels, gonna monitor voltage on the way home from work today and see how it does, display is still readable but missing a few lines.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Big "J"

No, I haven't tried to unlock it yet...I'll get them from Slick's sig and see what I can find.

If you can't find Slick's instructions...you can use the ones I've posted before below: (e38/e39/e53 high instrument clusters are all designed the same and work the same way)

OBC TEST 9 will give the battery's voltage (when ignition is in position 1 or 2)...and will give the alternator/charging system voltage when the engine is running. Since all accessories are running when ignition is in position 2 (versus 1)...you should see the battery's voltage drop faster if you're monitoring battery voltage only.

If for some reason you have the low instrument cluster (uses the GRAPHIC display for check control and only has ONE button (left side of cluster)...the UNLOCK procedure and display of TESTs is slightly different...click this link and scroll down and click on the LOW CLUSTER thumbnails : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/313409...series/page-6/

[Big "J"]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

If you can't find Slick's instructions...you can use the ones I've posted before below: (e38/e39/e53 high instrument clusters are all designed the same and work the same way)

OBC TEST 9 will give the battery's voltage (when ignition is in position 1 or 2)...and will give the alternator/charging system voltage when the engine is running. Since all accessories are running when ignition is in position 2 (versus 1)...you should see the battery's voltage drop faster if you're monitoring battery voltage only.



If for some reason you have the low instrument cluster (uses the GRAPHIC display for check control and only has ONE button (left side of cluster)...the UNLOCK procedure and display of TESTs is slightly different...click this link and scroll down and click on the LOW CLUSTER thumbnails : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/313409...series/page-6/

Update....

Unlocked the cluster and with engine running, a/c max, lights on and radio on, my voltage is 11.2 - 11.4. I believe my alternator is toast? I'll be getting another this evening to install. I hope this solves most if not all of my ABS/ DSC issues!

Thanks for the tip and help guys!!

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Big "J"

Update....

Unlocked the cluster and with engine running, a/c max, lights on and radio on, my voltage is 11.2 - 11.4. I believe my alternator is toast? I'll be getting another this evening to install. I hope this solves most if not all of my ABS/ DSC issues!

Thanks for the tip and help guys!!

I think it is supposed to be between 13-14v while car is running, but I could be wrong, good luck Big J i'm going to check my voltage on the way home too!

Funny thing though, my "trifecta" only really comes on when at highway speeds after a certain amount of time, and either stays on for a power cycle or two, or goes away at startup. For example when we went for a drive at lunch today, the lights went out at startup. Now I'm going to see if the lights pop back on again when we are on the highway going home (about 18 miles highway), should be very interesting, almost to say if my module was in need of replacing that the extended heat of the engine running at 4k rpm's or so on the highway has deteriorated the module and is affected by temperature?